Reply With QuoteThe 11 is the same action as the 10 and 12. The 11 is a short action, where as a 111 is a long action and so on. The numbers just reflect different models and options. You should get M.O.A. or better, for accuracy.
First off, I am new to Savage rifles so pardon my ignorance.
I recently got a model 11FXP3 270 WSM on a trade. I have searched the threads here and it seems like there is a good bit of info on model 10 and 12 but there is very little information or discussion on the model 11s. Why is that? Was this model not very popular or have a low following?
This particular gun was produced in December 2003 from a recent call to Savage Customer Service. It has the accutrigger that has been adjusted to perfection. After a detailed breakdown and cleaning it appears that this rifle has been shot very little. Are there torque specs or sequence for the action screws that are in the stock? I am looking at replacing the flimsy stock with an aftermarket one - most likely a Boyds thumbhole.
What kind of accuracy can I expect with solid rest, excellent glass, and factory ammo?
The 11 is the same action as the 10 and 12. The 11 is a short action, where as a 111 is a long action and so on. The numbers just reflect different models and options. You should get M.O.A. or better, for accuracy.
this is a combo, with a bushnell scope and accutrigger and regular Tupperware.
I have a few for the short action in 243.
newbie from gr, mi.
I guess someone along the line has switched scopes out on it. There is a cheap Barska 1.5-6X42 on it now which has got to go.
So there is no difference between model 10, 11, and 12 actions, barrels, and triggers (other than short and long action)?
Are there torque specs or certain tightening sequence for the action screws that are in the stock?
There are some differences due to date of manufacture, such as centerfeed or staggered feed, top or bottom bolt release, and stock bolt spacing, but for all intents and purposes they are very similar. Stock screws on a factory stock spec out at "snug". Torquing won't make a difference on a flimsy unbedded stock. I always snug the front bolt first, then the rear, FWIW.
Those differences (CF, SF, and so on ) are all changes made to the entire line. They do not depict the reason for the different numbers. A model 11 can be SF,CF, flat back round back and so on.Originally Posted by Werewolf
Bottom line is it is Savage short action with a 270 WSM bolt head. It must be a staggerfeed (magazine box attached to actions) since according to Savage Arms it was produced in Dec. 2003. I don't beleive the CF actions were available until around 2008? I have been pleased with the accuracy of factory Savage barrels. They do foul more than a custom barrel. But I've had no problem getting sub MOA groups with reloads. So test some different factory loads to find the one your rifle likes. I am not impressed by the Savage synthetic (tupperware) stock or the package rifle scopes.
I have one as well in .308. With the Bushnell scope which i'll use for the time being. thinking of a boydes as well. So affordable.
Are there other "standard" tweaks to make it smoother and more ergo? I saw there are several different aproaches to mellowing out the upstroke of the bolt. reducing friction (and not shortening the spring) seems to be the favoured of the two. But is the swashplate bearing approach preferable to the center ball bearing application?
Is the tupperware stock worth bedding?
Thanks .
I have noticed a lack of info and even parts,stocks, etc... advertised for the 11's. Even when I am looking up youtube video's and threads and info for the savages, they are dominated with model 10's and model 11 stuff is rare.
Anywho, I received a model 11 with accustock, and accutrigger in a trade for some .223 a while back. I had issues getting it to group with some of the factory ammo I was shooting (federal 149 gr, federal gmm 168 gr, federal gmm 175 gr). I posted over on accurateshooter asking for help, and most of the responses were "buy a 700", etc...
One person did help by telling me to tighten the action screws to 40-45 in lbs. First just hand tighten them, then hold the rifle vertically and tap it on its but a few times. Hand snug the front then the rear, then use a FAT wrench to properly tq the front, then the rear.
After doing the above, and dialing in a load with a COAL test, ladder test, and group test in .2 increments from the node I found in the ladders, I ended up with sub MOA (average) groups.
I am a pretty newb shooter, but was pretty proud of this one (.327MOA if its too small to read):
Here is some load data that might be useful:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...=7&output=html
Info, parts, stocks, etc. for the 11 are the same for 10, 12, 14, 16, as well, in reference to the part numbers. CF, SF, flat back, finishes etc, are the differences to look at not the part numbers. Example, a stock for a model 10 CF blind mag top release is the same for a model 11 CF blind mag top release.
Right, I was saying that it seems like parts manufacturers and/or retailers seem to not advertise the parts for model 11's, even though they are universal between the all of those models.
Last edited by TheHebs; 01-03-2014 at 10:23 AM.
Ohhhh, gotcha. Sometimes I'm a little slow.LOL.
Very helpful TheHebs . Thanks. I"ll start there. I'm also thinking of a Boyd's stock. Any haters? They are cheap and pretty it seems.
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This was the confusing part to me not being familiar with Savage centerfire rifles. This thread has helped tremendously.manufacturers and/or retailers seem to not advertise the parts for model 11's, even though they are universal between the all of those models.
Now I'm on to swapping to a Boyds stock and new scope and rings. So technically any scope bases for Savage SA models 10, 11, 12, 14, or 16 will work correct?
As long as you get the "base" for the right style. IE flat back or round back, yes. It can get confusing.
So that brings up another question...How do I know if I have a flat back vs round back? I haven't heard of this. Maybe it is self explanatory?
The flat back will have a flat mounting surface for the rear of the base. The round back will be round. Yes it's that simple.
I thank each of you for the help!
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