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Thread: stock oil question

  1. #1
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    stock oil question


    As some of you may recall, I'm building my first stock. I've had lots of questions along the way too.
    Well, we got through the pillar installation with excellent results. Thank you very much.
    Next was my bedding questions, and that job I am also pleased with. Thank you very much.

    I finished all the sanding finally, and just put on the first coat of Tru-Oil. So here are the oiling questions:
    1) What is the minimum number of coats needed to protect the stock? (it's laminated)
    2) Will the finish get darker with each coat?
    3) What's the best way to the Tru-Oil off your hands?! That stuff is sticky!

    I'll definitely get some pics up when this puppy is done. Thanks again.
    [COLOR=#ff0000]Hello to all you nice folks at NSA :)[/COLOR]

  2. #2
    Team Savage pdog06's Avatar
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    1) probably just 2-3 depending on how thick the coats are. All the ones ive done i have used atleast 6, but thats just me. I also steel wooled the finish between coats.
    2) slightly, yes.
    3)shoulda used rubber gloves......lol....maybe alcohol wipes will take it off, bur not sure.

  3. #3
    Team Savage stomp442's Avatar
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    Fast orange soap works pretty good for getting that stuff off your hands but it will take some scrubbing.

  4. #4
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    I think I'll stop at three. I am steel wooling with 000 between coats.This rifle is for F/TR only, not a hunting gun, so it gets treated fairly well. Also considering a wax finish. I kinda like the look directly after applying the oil, but that subsides to a satin finish when the oil dries. I'd also like to keep the color where it is, so less oil might be better. Coat #2 just went on.

    Thought about gloves, but I wanted be able to feel things when applying the oil. Turns out that brake cleaner works well :)

    Thanks for the answers pdog.
    [COLOR=#ff0000]Hello to all you nice folks at NSA :)[/COLOR]

  5. #5
    Basic Member big honkin jeep's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how the tru oil will soak into the pores of laminate as i've never done one but with walnut and birch I have found that more is indeed better and letting it dry completely between coats (a couple of days) makes a huge difference in the final product.You may want to go ahead and take your time and do a couple of more coats. It certainly doesn't hurt anything and lots of coats gives the finish depth that shows you took your time refinishing. You can certainly tell the difference in the end. On a range rig or showy rifle I like to skip the steel wool on the last couple of coats which leaves a beautiful glossy finish. Denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol followed by soap and water gets it off your hands without the exposure to the chemicals in brake cleaner.
    A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.

  6. #6
    Team Savage pdog06's Avatar
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    Like bhj mentioned, if youre looking for a deeper and glossier finish then add more coats and do not steel wool that last coat or two.

  7. #7
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    You could also look up the magic elixir of tru-oil and armor all. It dries in minutes not hours.

  8. #8
    Mach2
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    I have put more than 20 coats with Truoil on walnut. The ancient Chinese would apply more than a hundred coats of tung oil on bowls for the Emperor. If each successive coat looks better then keep going. Six or so. There is no set number. It's your stock and you're the artist.

  9. #9
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    Tru-oil can be removed with mineral spirits.

  10. #10
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    After 000 for the first 3-4 coats, try going to pieces of brown paper bag and buffing the stock down with that medium. Rub until you can feel the heat in your hands. It will bring up a luster that you may never have seen before.

  11. #11
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    I built a stock last winter using African Mahogany. To finish it, I used Tung Oil. Letting it dry between coat and rubbing with 0000 steel wool between the first couple of coats worked well. I think I have 5 or 6 coats on it. I wish I had tried the brown paper between later coats. No reason I can't do so now.

    Dennis

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