Used a Go gauge and everything is fine. If I put in a empty case (6.5Grendel) the case stays in the chamber, and I just tip up the rifle and the case falls out ?
Did I do something wrong ? The cases are brand new Lapua and they look great.
Again, the No Go won't even let me start to close the bolt, the Go gauge closes the bolt just fine.
wll
Did you install a new barrel?
The bolt should close on the Go Gauge, and not fully close on the No-Go gauge. Using those two gauges is how you set your headspace.
Your empty Lapua cases probably will not stick in the chamber if you have the bolt open. I'm not sure why you would want them to stick in the chamber with the bolt open.
I don't see a problem. Can you close the bolt on the new case? Does the bolt extract the case properly? If you answer yes to both of those questions why are freaking out and not shooting the gun? You're cooking with gas brother.
The cases falling out with the bolt open has nothing to do with the Go No Go measurements.
I installed the baffle washer when I head spaced between the baffle and the bolt face. Two days ago I installed the baffle washer behind the baffle and next to the bolt like it should be .... that changes the Go, No Go measurements for sure.
Will take the gun back to work on Monday and re set everything. I'm sure the head space has increased by .006 to .008 at least. I don't know how thick the baffle washer is.
All I can say is I'm glad I caught it, my first build I'm checking everything over and over to be sure it is correct, I don't want to endanger myself or someone else at the range for my not being cautious. Shooting is fun, but you can never be to cautious.
I will add : if I push the bolt against the barrel when I close the bolt, the cartridge will eject, If I just close the bolt, the cartridge won't eject ... that is telling me to much head space !
wll
Last edited by wlleven; 12-06-2013 at 02:04 PM.
No, don't want them to stick when bolt is open, I know now what I did, see my last post.Originally Posted by Beekeeper
wll
After reading this you need to see a gunsmith. The only way those washers will change anything is if you put them between the lug of the bolt head and the lugs of the action. The washers change nothing. The bolt head is held in place by the cross pin and the location of the bolt face is constant when closed. Please don't take this wrong, take my advice go see a gunsmith as this is above your experience levelI installed the baffle washer when I head spaced between the baffle and the bolt face. Two days ago I installed the baffle washer behind the baffle and next to the bolt like it should be .... that changes the Go, No Go measurements for sure.
Tell me something…..When you set the headspace on this install, did you have the extractor and the ejector on the bolt removed? Or did you set the headspace with (1)the ejector AND extractor on the bolt? (2) Only the extractor on the bolt? (3) Only the ejector on the bolt? (4) Neither the ejector or the extractor on the bolt?
Dave
Dave, I had the extractor and ejector on the bolt ... but the gauges have a cut out for the ejector so that was not an issue.
When I opened the bolt the extractor was in solid contact with the bottom rim of the gauge and pulled it out, so it was not resting on the rim or anything like that.
After tightening the barrel nut down, the go and no go gauges did what they were supposed to do.
I can see by looking at the bolt and the distance of putting the washer in wrong area what I did. The washer and the bolt head were cammed in the receiver housing adding x amount of thousands gap to the head space gauge.
After all the Thompson Contenders I have worked on and all the other guns I have nurtured back to health, this was a mistake on my part, but I caught it.
I will fix this Monday for sure.
wll
How does the washer change the headspace? You really need to understand what you are saying. I am concerned when someone is clinging to such an erroneous belief.
Stangfish,
The only thing I can tell you is after I completed the head spacing, everything was fine. after I moved the washer to its correct position in back of the baffle and between the bolt, the extractor did not engage the rim of the case unless I pushed on the bolt and then it would engage..
We will see Monday, I have all the equipment and such. I'll keep you posted for sure. My office is a machine shop and the guys will help me if I need it, but I can see what I did .... if I'm wrong, I owe ya dinner ; -)
I'll post again on this Monday afternoon !
wll
I could be wrong on this one…..but I "smell" ejector as an issue when you set the headspace. I'm agreeing with the others in that the washer behind the lugs should not matter as the bolt lugs close and mate up against the inside of the chamber. So, it wouldn't matter how many (in theory…in practical terms it would) washers you put "in there", that would not change headspace.
So, I think the ejector may have been pushing against your go gauge when you set your headspace. Or the ejector perhaps pushed the gauge out to where it was some how cocked and set the headspace wrong.
If it were me, I would remove both the ejector and extractor and double check the headspace. Remove that washer first if you want. But then you will see if your first setting was on or off.
MHO
Dave
I agree, the washer changes nothing, for head space.
Guys, you all may be right, I'll remove the ejector and then give it a go !
wll
NO see pm
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
Pm must be a deep dark headspace secret know only to those who are gifted with the double secrete probation of "paid membership." Hey……I have a paid membership and I don't have no stinking double secret probation gifted nuthin!!!
But then….I am from Pennsylvania.
Dave
Quit your whinning Dave. I sent ice and snow your way and tried to send enough for you and your much better looking brother so you have enough to play in.
No secret just the basic stuff. The boss said i am not allowed to keep stuff like that from you yanks anymore. Something about letting you think you won. I really got to have a long talk with her.
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
First thing to do is REMOVE the barrel. With the barrel off the action, drop the headspace gauge in and measure the protrusion. Then drop a case in and measure the protrusion from it. The protrusion needs to be a min. of .125". It sounds like to me that your case is shorter than the gauge by more than just a few thousandths.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Yes Fred. I had been thinking the same thing. Unless he has some calipers and understands dimensions and their impact on headspace and brass size he is better off letting a professional mess with this. His experience is around two months.
We need to get this guy some assistance before something gets messed up. Wlleven, where do you live?
He's in Cali.
If the bolt won't close on a no-go, how can headspace be too long?
something else is at play here.
I think Fred hit it on the head.It had crossed my mind but the wave washer headspace connection had me in a whirlwind. If he has sized his case and not understanding the base to shoulder dimension when setting up the dies that may be the issue, just throwing something out there.It sounds like to me that your case is shorter than the gauge by more than just a few thousandths.
got to remember he is using virgin brass and as such it could be short to start with.
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
This sounds like it could be a shoulder issue on the brass. OP, do you have a comparator where you can measure the shoulder on your brass?
He doesn't need a comparator...he has the barrel. All he has to do is what I said. I think the gauges are wrong.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
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