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Thread: Barrel installation - Lubrication

  1. #1
    Bike Effects
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    Barrel installation - Lubrication


    I'm getting ready to install my first barrel on my Savage PTA. What are people using as a thread lubricant IF ANY when installing a barrel on the action and the barrel nut?

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    I put a coating of neolube stainless fitting anti gall anti seize compound on mine.

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    +1.... I use anti seize also.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Effects View Post
    I'm getting ready to install my first barrel on my Savage PTA. What are people using as a thread lubricant IF ANY when installing a barrel on the action and the barrel nut?
    After cleaning the abutments, lug recesses ,barrel and nut threads a very light coat of Break-Free unless its stainless to stainless then a thin coating of anti-seize. I wet the nut face too.

    Bill
    Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.

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    A shot of WD-40 usually does it.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  6. #6
    Bike Effects
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    Quote Originally Posted by missed View Post
    I put a coating of neolube stainless fitting anti gall anti seize compound on mine.
    Where can Neolube be purchases? Google was no help.

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    You can get anti seize grease at about any automotive store. That's what I use since stainless can gall. Put a thin coat on the threads and you're good to go.

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    I will have to look at work to see which neolube it is, I have had my bottle so long most of the writing is gone off it. Its probably overkill, but I want something that is rated for stainless since it can be a major pain if it galls.

  9. #9
    stangfish
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpshooter View Post
    A shot of WD-40 usually does it.
    That is interesting Fred. That is a product I hardly ever see anymore. I like anti-seize type products but they are a mess and often require extra cleaning on the exterior of the barreled action. Something is better than nothing for sure. I use Anti seize or mineral oil(3 in 1.)

    The 400 series of stainless does not gall like the 300 series does. Feel for burrs. Clean your threads with a wire brush(not the kind on a drill or grinder) clean the threads in the action too and you should not have a problem. With lubricated threads and faces it is easy to get the torque up there without having to be a brute.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by missed View Post
    I will have to look at work to see which neolube it is, I have had my bottle so long most of the writing is gone off it. Its probably overkill, but I want something that is rated for stainless since it can be a major pain if it galls.
    Would appreciate that.

  11. #11
    Basic Member OLEJOE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FW Conch View Post
    +1.... I use anti seize also.
    I do also.

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    So the stainless actions barrels and nuts are softer than carbon steel ? Is that why your saying they gall ?

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    Go with anti-seize

    My $0.02: Much as I like WD-40 for a lot of things, NOT for barrel lubricant. WD-40 is not a high-temperature lube. You might get away with it for moderate shooting, but if you ever think you are are likely to heat up your barrel, it just isn't designed for it. It will breakdown, char and lose its lubricating properties. Go to the autoparts store and spend $1 on the little foil pouch of anti-seize. After you spend $400 for the action, another $400 for the barrel and read all the problems guys have changing barrels and not being able to grip the barrel tight enough to keep it from turning in their vice, spend a buck and get the right lube for the job. When you do, it won't be a liquid. Free opinion from 35 years of chemical engineering and 45 years of shooting.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpshooter View Post
    A shot of WD-40 usually does it.
    Free opinion from 35 years of gunsmithing and 35 years of competitive shooting, and thousands of barrel changes.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

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    It has always been my understanding that stainless is harder than regular carbon steel but that probably depends on the grade. It can be more brittle though which may be a contributor.

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