Reply With QuoteGlad I inspired someone.
Dolomite
I have been thinking about doing this for some time, Ive done a lot of Copper annealing, but not Brass, but after reading "Dolomite_Supafly" post, I went ahead and got into it. Its real easy, and most of the $60. $45 to be exact, went for the Map gas torch, its a Bernz O Matic TS4000 (About $45) and its a good one, squeeze ON release OFF (auto light). Plus the cost of two cans of Map gas = $60.
I had the cordless drill, the 11MM deep socket with 1/4" drive, (for BR cases) and the little adapter to fit the drill.
I then snuck in to the kitchen and grabbed a 8" square 2" deep cake pan, for the cooling water, but any container will do, or you can let them just room cool, but I prefer water cooling.
On my first try, I did 50 rounds of 6BR Lapua brass in about 20min (one case every 24 sec), and they all turned out great, just like Dolomites. I was keeping them in the flame for 5 to 8 sec each, and for the 50 cases, I used about 1/3 of a can of Map gas.
Sorry no pictures.
Mike.
Glad I inspired someone.
Dolomite
Dolomite, like I said, I had been thinking about doing this, and I know Propane and air was not hot enough, (I tried it) so I was planing to use my Oxy / acetylene torch setup, but its to hot. And you found the right gas to use, I had forgot all about Map gas.
Also the torch I chose made a big difference in how well it worked, its instant on and off, so the gas will last a long time. I'm guessing now, but maybe 150 to 200 rounds of BR cases per can of gas.
So Thanks, you helped a lot.
The whole process is so quick and easy, im sure if tried, more will do it.
Mike.
Quote: for the 50 cases, I used about 1/3 of a can of Map gas.
What is the capacity of the MAP gas cannister you are using? The reason I ask is that seems like an awful lot of fuel for 50 cases. The system that I am using (Ken Light) uses two Propane torches and I use the 16.92 oz "Fatboy" propane cannisters. I run the torches wide open and I have done over 4,000 cases and I'm still on the first two cannisters. They are just about empty now.
Charlie
laportecharlie
The Ken Light setup is a very efficient way of doing things. Annealing individual cases is no where near as efficient. I am not sure how many I have done, probably close to 400 so far and I am still on my first MAP gas cannister which is 14.1 oz. It also makes a difference on what tip you are using. I have the "rosebud" tip that came with mine but I have seen some sold with a differnt tip.
Tightgroups:
I suspect you are going to get a lot more than 150-200 cases per cannister once you settle into what works. I did use more case figuring out what works for me.
Dolomite
OK lets talk about gas, I guess these are the 14.1oz cans, I didn't weigh it before I started, nor have I since I got the first 50 done, I just shook the can, and it has plenty left, and the other can is unopened. Dolomite would know more about how much gas gets used than I, having only done 50 so far. But no matter how you look at it, I did 50 cases using between $1. and $3. worth of gas, thats nothing. To me thats not even a concern, and if you can afford to reload, its nothing. You might even be saving money.
What is important is. Now we all know what it costs to get set up to start annealing your own brass. About what it costs to do it. How much time is involved in doing it. And how easy it is to do.
Mike.
One thing I will say from my observations is to trim/chamfer before you anneal. I have found that sometimes when trimming or chamfering annealed brass the cutter can dig into the case mouth and gouge it bad enough to ruin the brass. It doesn't happen to every case but for me it was enough for me to change my process.
The way I do it is:
1. Tumble the brass to clean them of any debris that might ruin the dies
2. Neck size and deprime
3. Body size (if I am doing it this time around)
4. Trim
5. Chamfer the case mouth
6. Anneal
7. Tumble to remove any debris from trimming/chamfering
Some people might have a little different list but this is the way it works for me.
Dolomite
Mike has been pushing me to start doing mine but my biggest problem is the fact that as soon as I get back from the range, I'll resize and prime my brass so it's ready to reload. I've finally got almost 100 cases that arn't primed so I'am getting close to having enough cases to jump into it.
My thoughts were that by annealing the cases, I would end up with a more consistant neck tension. I can feel a big difference between one case and the next when I seat the bullets. I'am looking forward to seeing and feeling the difference. Might even get rid of the "dreded flyers"? You know the one that always screws up that group that you can cover with a dime? The one that makes you pound your head on the bench? ???
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
How about some pictures , brand names and where to buy it.
Almost any Hardware Store that has Propane Cylinders has Mapp Gas also. Same size tank as the propane. The trigger type valve is the best way to go. Squeeze on and off.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Once y'all start annealing and see the difference it makes you'll wonder why you didn't start sooner. Anneal on a regular basis...like ever 3rd load to make sure the neck tension stays consistent.
It's now the primary reason I anneal my cases. Started annealing to extend case life quite a while ago, then read about the neck consistency thing, been doing it ever since. It DOES make a difference.
Try reloading and shooting for groups with cases that have been annealed every 3rd shot as compared to those that aren't annealed after the 3rd shot....say 5+ shots or so on the brass. You will see a notable difference.
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