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Thread: How To Remove Stuck BAS and Disassemble Bolt

  1. #1
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    How To Remove Stuck BAS and Disassemble Bolt


    I have seen several threads in the past asking about how to remove a stuck Bolt Assembly Screw (BAS) and about basic bolt tear-down. So I decided to go ahead and snap a few pictures while I was working on a new build.


    First off, as its been said here, the easiest way to remove a stubborn BAS is to insert the 1/4" allen wrench as shown below. Then on a carpeted surface or rug, apply pressure (as indicated by the orange arrow) downward with your foot. I recommend wearing shoes when you step down. Do not be surprised if you hear a "crack" sound when the BAS breaks loose, and in rare cases you my have to bounce or stomp on it to get it to break free.


    Here is a photo of the bolt with the BAS removed but otherwise still assembled. The BAS is indicated by the arrow.


    Once the BAS is removed, the Bolt Handle and Rear Baffle can be slid off the rear of the Bolt Body.


    To disassemble further, the cocking button in the picture needs to be slid down into the bottom of the slot (the dark slot indicated by the arrow). Use one finger and hold the inner sleeve (arrow) while sliding the button down to the bottom of the inner sleeve's slot and then lift out the button.


    Here is the cocking button removed (orange arrow) and the inner sleeves lined up to allow button removal and installation (purple arrow).


    Once the cocking button is removed, the inner sleeve and firing pin assembly fall right out of the rear of the Bolt Body.


    This is the Bolt Head, Front Baffle, Spring Washer, and Retention Pin removed. After the firing pin assembly is removed from the rear of the bolt body, the Retention Pin can be pushed out and the rest disassembles as shown.


    Reassembly is just the reverse of the steps above.

    To re-install the BAS once you are to that point, move the Cocking Button to the position indicated by the arrow. Then thread in the BAS about 3 turns only.


    Then slide the Cocking Button as indicated from the Purple Arrow to the Orange Arrow. You can use your thumb or the corner of a counter, table, or work bench to apply pressure to move the button. Once the button is in place at the orange arrow then just use your 1/4" allen to screw the BAS in the rest of the way and tighten hand tight.


    That's it. Bolt tear-down and reassembly made easy.

    Mods if this is in the wrong place I apologize.
    Last edited by bootsmcguire; 11-22-2013 at 12:57 AM.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  2. #2
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    Well done "boots"! Great review! Thanks.......Jim

  3. #3
    Basic Member eddiesindian's Avatar
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    +1.......................
    Life is tuff.....its even tuffer when your stupid
    {John Wayne}

  4. #4
    Administrator J.Baker's Avatar
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    Great post Boots! I've gone ahead and copied it and made it into a FAQ article for the main site so it will be easy to find in the future as well.

    To All: These are exactly the kinds of posts we're looking for to add to our growing list of Savage FAQ and Gunsmithing articles. Clear, concise explanations of how something works or instructions on how to do something accompanied by clean, clear, quality photo's showing the steps of the process.
    "Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
    “Under certain circumstances, 
urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain

  5. #5
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    Way to go Boots.

  6. #6
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Thanks for the kind words guys. Just figured some pics to go along with instructions might help.

    I may do a couple more of these type of threads as I have time.

    Good Luck and Good Shooting.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  7. #7
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    I just noticed my age is now showing up below my avatar as 63. WTH?


    EDIT: I went and hid birthday and age in my settings. That's just funny, this thing had me born before my mother. LOL.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  8. #8
    stangfish
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    I may do a couple more of these type of threads as I have time.
    I'm sure they will all be a great contribution to this site. Good job.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the effort Boots. I enjoy adding to my knowledge.
    NRA Endowment Member

  10. #10
    Basic Member Hotolds442's Avatar
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    By far the best step-by-step bolt disassembly guide I've seen yet.

  11. #11
    glockman99
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    EXCELLENT...Thank-You!

  12. #12
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    Thanks a million boots. I was just about to start a thread askign about stubborn BAS. I just bought a Stevens 200 in 223 and I need the bolt face for another rifle and I'm having a heck of a time getting that BAS off of the new rifle.

    I sprayed kroil and was going to let it soak, but this will help a lot.

  13. #13
    Cycler
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    About the only thing I can add is to be sure you use a GOOD quality 1/4" Allen key and in good (not worn) condition. A cheap or worn key can, and will, damage the recess on the BAS. And, once the bolt's recess is damaged and rounded out, there will be hell to pay removing it.

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