Reply With Quoteoops! I am wondering what the best method of boresighting is. Is it using a collimator or using a newer lazer type system?
Hello all,
oops! I am wondering what the best method of boresighting is. Is it using a collimator or using a newer lazer type system?
Your call. A collimator will get you on paper. A chamber specific lazer is capable of getting you to within 2" of POA (if used at night out to 100 yards).
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
Don't forget plane old "bore sighting" ...........
You look through the bore and align the bore and the scope reticle to the same point. No special equipment needed and it will usually get you on the paper the first shot.
My preferred method!Originally Posted by Too may Savages, is that possible?
Bob
It's better to shoot for the moon and hit the fencepost than to shoot for the fencepost and hit the ground!
i have one of the bushnell magnetic boresighter, its easy to use and got me on paper everytime but i prefer to just look down the bore if its a bolt action. watch out for those boresighters that stick into the muzzle of the gun. it could potentially damage the crown or rifling
If you are clumsy enough to damage the crown or bore with a collimator spud, you shouldn't be tinkering with guns!watch out for those boresighters that stick into the muzzle of the gun. it could potentially damage the crown or rifling
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You look through the bore and align the bore and the scope reticle to the same point. No special equipment needed and it will usually get you on the paper the first shot.
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That's all I ever do, and I'm getting better at it. The Friday after Thanksgiving I did some homework at the range with some new rings on my 308 Savage. Set the stand at 25 yards, treated the barrel like a peep sight, made sure I had enough sand bags to keep it steady, and the single shot went through the center cross. Took it out to a 100 and kept going.
I don't find the collimators worth a darn for elevation and I see guys d!cking around with the lasers they just spent a lot of money on, kind of silly. If you are stuck with a gas gun or lever gun or the like, you're better off shooting the berm with a spotter who can call your shots for you. Bolt guns need a Mark 1 eyeball and that's it.
Regards,
Brian in CA
Thank you all!!! Sounds like the logical solution is to look through the bore.
never mind
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When you look down the bore and find the disc by moving the gun notice how well you can center the disc in the bore by gently moving the rifle . If you are well centered you'll notice you can see the "walls" of the bore "about" the muzzle window. Adjust the rifle until you notice the disc, muzzle window, and bore walls are all centered, don't be tempted to make the view happen to fast. Give your eye time to tell you its all lined up. You'l see your looking down a cylinder with an opening at the end and the disc right in the middle.
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That would be "treat it like a peep sight."
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Look through the scope and don't touch that dial. I always make any adjustment TO THE MOUNTS. Shim it up or down to get the cross hairs on the disc for your elevation, and hopefully your windage is adjustable at the MOUNT.
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Are you kidding? Why the HELL would they put adjustments on the scope if you aren't supposed to use them?? What kind of goofball rings do you trust for repeatable adjustments compared to any number of high quality scopes with specific increments of adjustment??
Seriously, step back about 100 yards and rethink.
Regards,
Brian in CA
He's talking about making the initial adjustment from the mounts so you don't run out of adjustment in the scope when trying to dial it in for elevation for long shots or windage, because we all know that some rifle's hole mount hole alignment isn't perfect. TnTom is RIGHT ON and you Brian are way off. You should rethink what you said.
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because we all know that some rifle's hole mount hole alignment isn't perfect. TnTom is RIGHT ON and you Brian are way off. You should rethink what you said.
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Show me anything besides a ConeTrol that won't mess up your scope and get back to me. A rifle with mess up alignment can be fixed, how many scopes do you want to go through before you do that?
Other than that, Burris SigZees are much the better way to handle the issue, and if that's what he meant, why didn't he say it?
Regards,
Brian in CA
never mind again
I have the Laser that goes in the bore, have 25ft in my cellar put up the target that came with laser on back door light it up see were it is then get out my trusty marlin 30/30 check were it is and adjust new scope.
Did this with my F/TR and was on paper 1.5 in. low at 100 yards.
balljoint that' way too easy :D
An alternative method that works with all rifles, bolt or auto. Set up a large backboard at 25 yards. Cover the backboard with clean paper, mark a center aim point or attach a target to the center. Secure the rifle in gun vise, line up the cross hairs on the aim point and fire one round. With the gun still in the vise, make sure the cross hairs are on the point of aim, then use the scope adjustment knobs to move the cross hairs to the point of impact. You can now do the same at 100 yards and the first shot will be close. Adjust the scope in the same manner and you are now set, with the setting to be verified/refined with a group. If you set the initial backboard at the distance where the bullet path first crosses the line of sight, you will be zeroed for 100 yards after the first scope adjustment.
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