Reply With QuoteI'm not sure if anything will stick to a synthetic stock, I have bedded many actions, I don't know what would be any different on a 110 than any other, I have never messed with a 110
I'd like to read a little on the proper way to bed a 110 action. I have an aftermarket synthetic stock that's a little more rigid than the factory. Curious what should and shouldn't be done or better yet, if there's a writeup on the Savage out there.
I'm not sure if anything will stick to a synthetic stock, I have bedded many actions, I don't know what would be any different on a 110 than any other, I have never messed with a 110
There are plenty of youtube videos for this. Most people say do not bed the tang area. Use a proven release agent. Tape the lug on the side and forward surfaces. Pillars would be wise, if not use 1/28 studs to keep screw holes aligned.
In reference to synthetic; rough it up it will be fine, if you are concerned about adhesion drill small shallow holes in different directions.
Stang that's exactly what I was thinking with the adhesion. I'll degrease it real good with naptha (charcoal grill lighter fluid), then scuff like crazy with 80 grit.
I'll probably use Epoxy mixed with Cornstarch as a thickener since I have both of those here and the West Systems Epoxy cures pretty hard. I could bed the entire action with some sealing around the magazine and trigger group area but where do I stop?
dont use naptha as it has oil in it,acetone would be better
You sure about that JWW? Not trying to be difficult, but Naptha is used in the finishing industry as a wax and grease remover. If it had oil in it, it'd create all kinds of havoc for finishing products (Oil and Lacquer/Solvent Based Finishes do not mix).
Edit: I say that as a person who makes a living in wood finishing fwiw.
Just to be on the safe side I would use something different.
Naptha is made from distilled petroleum products so it has some oil content left in it. Acetone works great though.
Thank you all who've commented. I started to do this today and chickened out about half way through after mixing the epoxy. Too many unknowns for me, I'm going to ruin the action. I really need a good step by step. I ran into these issues that I could predict.
-I'd like to support the first 2" of the barrel but I REALLY don't want to get any of the epoxy getting into the barrel nut/threads/receiver.
-The recoil lug seems like there's no way to cover the whole thing with tape since it's got areas near the barrel that are too small to tape to.
-I used play dough to section everything off but I'm getting squish of the playdough into the areas I want the epoxy.
-Pillars or no pillars?
-When I tighten the action down, the rear tang (safety area) touches the stock. I'd like to elevate the rear tang but not sure how to do it.
If I had a good step by step, I'd feel a lot more comfortable.
Last edited by 777funk; 10-25-2013 at 04:50 PM.
I done a google search for glass bedding and several popped up
Midway has a couple on remingtons
Stocky's Stocks ( a vender here) has instructions on there web site
Most are not for savage but you will get the general idea
I also searched here and found several posts about Devcon bedding
You might search those posts also
Hope this helps
Jack
Well I went ahead and just did it. I hope my playdough is where it needs to be. I also stuffed the chamber just incase. Now I'm a little worried that the playdough may mash into the areas I'm trying to bed. But we'll see by Monday I guess.
you'll know before Monday... depending on what you use, 12-24 hrs is plenty. The first few times I pillar-bedded I had trouble sleeping at night :) Don't worry. If you used release agent properly and puttied the chamber as you said, it should be fine. Don't worry about the play dough messing up the areas you want bedded. It either did or didn't. If it did, it is no big deal to dremel that part away, then dremel-down the whole thing about 1/4" and try again.
If that is necessary, next time try plumbers putty. I think it handles better than paydough. Also, when placing your putty, re-assemble the whole rifle and take apart again to check and see if the putty is formed properly. (See that it is molded to the shape/contours of the action, etc. and yet able to act as a dam. ) I check and double-check the putty for good fit a few times before proceeding. When you're satisfied that the putty is good, "pinch it" a little bit before your final job so that it sits a little high again, and go ahead with it.
Let us know how it turns out.
You should be able to take it apart and check it this morning. The first one I did was a stressful time indeed.
I'll check it out and see what I've got. I did squish fit and trim it a few times before the real thing. So hopefully all is well. But we'll see.
The first time is always the most nerve racking.
Used to be a good article on here Savage bedding 101
Yeah, what happened to that! I've have a few searches come up with that link but now it doesn't go anywhere.
Anyways, Seems like it worked out ok. I checked it out and I had too much playdough in the rear so I ran that again and believe it turned out this time. I'll check it out tomorrow and then give it 5 days to fully cure before I see how it worked. I had 2" groups before with a really old barrel and factory ammo. I'm looking forward to seeing what it'll do now and with reloads. I'll be using GameKings for this deer season so I'll probably give those range time next. I have them seated all the way to the lands with 51gr of 4350 for use in this old 270. Seems to be a nice comfortable load with the few I've shot.
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