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Thread: pillar specs?

  1. #1
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    pillar specs?


    I'll be installing pillars in a new wooden stock for my #10. I've read lots of good stuff on this site and Brownel's and think I have a handle on it. But with all the mention of OUTSIDE diameter of the pillars, I haven't seen any discussion of the INSIDE diameter of the pillar. I assumed it should be 1/4" like the bolt, but then there's plenty of talk about using lamp parts from Lowes to make the pillars. I don't recall the inside of such material being that skinny.
    So the question is, does the INSIDE diameter of a pillar have to be 1/4", or should it be anyway?
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas Solo View Post
    So the question is, does the INSIDE diameter of a pillar have to be 1/4", or should it be anyway?
    Actually the pillar bore should be 5/16" or a bit more for screw shank clearance. You don't want the screw(s) playing recoil lug, it can be a good accuracy killer.

    When I make pillars I purposely drill them out small using either a letter D or 1/4" depending on the screw's major diameter I'm using to attach them when gluing them in. After the goop has cured I'll open them to 5/16". Oh BTW, attaching them to the action eliminates any misalignment issues and the need to Rube Goldberg them afterward.

    Bill
    Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.

  3. #3
    seanhagerty
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    I just went and got some tablelamp construction hollow all thread. Its aluminium and is almost exactly the right length if you get the packets with the different sizes. I used a dremel to customize them and make the cut out for the trigger, but they seem to be working.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanhagerty View Post
    I just went and got some tablelamp construction hollow all thread. Its aluminium and is almost exactly the right length if you get the packets with the different sizes. I used a dremel to customize them and make the cut out for the trigger, but they seem to be working.
    Please explain the cutout for trigger. I was unaware of this.
    [COLOR=#ff0000]Hello to all you nice folks at NSA :)[/COLOR]

  5. #5
    seanhagerty
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    On the back pillar, the trigger either touches or is very close to touching. I just cut out the back half of the pillar that is nearest the trigger, then bed it. After the bedding dries, I clean it up with a dremel because I make a huge mess. Always.

  6. #6
    Team Savage
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    I have trouble getting the pillar to stay square with the action after cutting the notch. So, I cut it after bedding.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanhagerty View Post
    On the back pillar, the trigger either touches or is very close to touching.
    Its not the trigger, its the sear. Without the "notch" it hits the pillar. Like bsekf I let them the full diameter then cut it after. Another reason I let it the full the diameter, with 1/2 of the top removed the screw has the tendency to angle it out of square, the bottom is forced rearward.

    Bill
    Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.

  8. #8
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    I seeing that there's more to this pillar installation than I thought. Can anyone post a pic of the "notched" pillar?
    I need to see it to understand exactly what I'll need to do.
    And how would you notch them after installing them? Do they stick up beyond the inside surface of the stock? Thanks.

    ETA...just found these:
    http://www.stockysstocks.com/servlet...-Pillar/Detail

    Anyone use them???
    Last edited by Texas Solo; 10-23-2013 at 09:26 PM.
    [COLOR=#ff0000]Hello to all you nice folks at NSA :)[/COLOR]

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