Reply With QuoteOk thanks guys. i will try the ones without heat and see how it turns out.
I can believe that on the hot water, I hot water washed some 38 in my stainless pin tumbler and it all came out funky colors and that was the only time I used hot water and it did that so the same reaction could occur in the ultra sonic.Originally Posted by davemuzz
Ok thanks guys. i will try the ones without heat and see how it turns out.
What are your opinions on the Lee deluxe 3 piece die set. I have read complaints about the lock rings moving in my researches, but having the option to buy different lock rings if that becomes a problem.
[I]Bowers 2123[/I][COLOR="#0000FF"][/COLOR][SIZE=4][/SIZE]
I hate to make blanket statements…..so I'll put it this way….All Lee dies I have purchased have the locking ring that have a rubber "tension ring" at the bottom. The other die makers have a set screw. So, it's easier to bump, or move the Lee die from the setting that you like the most. However, in order to check to see if your die has moved, simply take a black marker and mark the "parts" that can move from alignment…and you don't want them to….in a line beginning at the decap pin, the decap nut, the die itself, and the locknut. Then a quick look at the die will tell you if all is good.
DAve
All my dies are lee, I have a breech lock press, and use the set screw breech lock bushings. I do also mark mine just to make sure there has not been any inadvertent movement.
Yup. Been there, done that and have all the T-shirts.
The equipment you get really depends on your goals. If your looking to produce good all around shooting ammo then sure get the Lee dies and other inexpensive stuff. I started out that way...as a volume guy trying to make as much ammo as possible. I have several presses including a Hornady LnL Ammo Plant. In the volume mode you can made decent ammo but it's not precision ammo. I now have moved full circle from volume to quality and do them one at a time. My LnL now only makes pistol rounds. I do all of my precision rounds one at a time on a Lee Challenger just like your buying. I use Forster Benchrest dies or Redding S Dies. They are incredibly more accurate, especially in bullet seating than the Lee's. Don't get me wrong Lee makes good dies, especially for pistols. I still have all my Lees but for precision work you need better dies to accurately control shoulder bump, body sizing, neck diameter and run out. You can accurately full size with a Lee die but you can't accurately seat bullets with one. You need a seater that holds the neck and seats the bullet with minimal runout. The Forsters are the best for this. If total precision is your goal then the micrometer is the best but standard benchrest does very well.
For precision work I have found the best set up is the WFT trimmer by little crow is the cats meow for trimming. The RCBS 1500 Chargemaster is awesome for weighing powder. You must weigh by weight not volume for precision work. A good digital or balance scale is mandatory. The Chargemaster just makes it easier and more effecient. I would not part with mine for nothin.
Powder, primers and bullets will be dictated by what you want to shoot. Just try to be consistent and not change up. I stick with CCI primers because I can find them and have a good supply. Powder is dependent on caliber. For .308 there are dozens that work great. Use what you can readily find. Much is dependent on where you live. For example it's very hard to find Varget around me so I don't use it anymore. I can easily find XBR 8208 and Power Pro 2000MR. So I worked up loads with these and have had excellent results. Same for bullets. If you want to shoot long range then you'll want heaviers of 175g or longer. Inside 300 yards the 150's and 168's work fine. If hunting there are tons of options.
The best part (or worse) of this addiction is the endless choices. Never take what someone else say's as gospel. There is no one perfect powder, bullet or load. Each rifle likes something different. Experiment and experiment some more. Try some of those bullet packs you can get with several different weights. Load them up and shoot them to find what works best for you and your rifle. The most important thing to do is shoot and shoot alot! A chronograph is a good investment. Most start out thinking they won't need one but you'll eventually own one if the bug gets you. I have a Magnetospeed and I use the crap out of it.
Welcome to looney ward. If you start on the path you will be a resident member. No doubt about it!
Last edited by Rifleshooter308; 10-24-2013 at 11:10 AM.
so today I bought a quick n ez case tumbler by Frankford Arsenal. 6 pounds Lyman turbo tumbler media corncob green. 1 pound of Hodgdon Varget powder, 200 Winchester large rifle primers, and a bag of the FMJ 308 bullets. I could not find any lee dies or a case trimmer. in all I paid roughly 150 bucks.
can I use FMJ in a regular case without having to put a crimp in it? also the guy said that he uses Hornady dies and they were instock but I passed on them for now.
Your FMJ bullets are fine for punching holes in paper. Not a good choice for hunting. Remember that just about every bullet maker's bullet of the same grain weight will impact at a different place (different POI) even if you use the same powder charge. So, working up a load using your FMJ bullets may not be "the load" for your rifle if you then choose to buy say…..Hornady SST bullets.
Hornady dies are fine dies. That's all I've used to load my .308. OTOH, for one-hole groups at 200 yards for my 6.5x55 I use a Redding neck sizer competition die, and an RCBS cop. seater die.
BTW, I like corn cob media much better than walnut because walnut always leaves RED residue all over the cases.
FWIW
Dave
The man at the shop recommended me to use the fmj until i got the routine down. Otherwise i would be waisting money on premium bullets just to learn, as that does make sense. He also said the walnut left a residue just like u mentioned. im going to do more research on the Hornady dies for now.
.
Got a question. has anyone used the Lee case trimmer cutter and lock stud, with the Lee case length gauge and shell holder?
I was researching trimmers and these kept poping up as cheap and very great product, now them words hardly go together in my book. together they cost less than $15 at midway.
I have one, it works, easy and simple just not as fast and you have to chamfer in a separate step. I have gotten the lee quick trim deluxe and use that now. It is faster and chamfers the inside of the case mouth at the same time so production is higher with it.
I have a Lee trim stud for every cartridge i load except the ones they cannot make. 204 ruger. I also have 2 lathe type trimmers that never get used. The Lee system is the only way to go. Safe, easy to use, repeatable and virtually foolproof! Good luck with your new addiction!
There are 3 kinds of people in this world. Those who can do math and those who can't
i orderd the lee case trimmer cutter and lock stud with gauge and holder. Also orderd the Lee 3 piece delux dies. Then realized my kit had the trimmer but not the gauge, so now got and extra coming.
Also i put some casing in my vibrator bowl with the corn media, man does that work great, but i noticed media in my flash hole, i hope when i deprime it the media will come out. Also does the corn media smell give anybody a headache. wooh
I usually "stick" or place my vibrator bowl outside of my garage when I do that. First, I can't stand the noise….but I've never noticed a smell with it. (Reloading too long???) As for the media getting stuck in a flash hole….Remember that (well, this is what I do) you toss in your fired cases BEFORE you size and decap 'em. Why? Because you want nice clean brass going into your dies so you don't have a build up of grit inside your dies to cause 'em to get scar's 'n scratches.
Now, when you remove your fired cases from the media, your going to have to turn 'em upside down to dump out media that is going to be in each case. (Yup…one by one. I haven't found a better way yet. Usually I grab 'em three at a time and "tap" 'em against a plastic surface) Then when you do your size\decap there is nothing in there to be concerned about. (There should be nothing in there.)
Dave
Yep that's exactly how it done it, I wiped the brass off, checked for defects "found 1 stressed casing out of 350". Then threw about 30 at a time in the media for about an hour without being deprimed or resized which I cant do yet anyway because the dies haven't came in the mail. Then as mentioned I tapped the media out, and wiped the casing off again, but still had the corncob media in the flash hole, but I have been reading and found this to be fairly common and when I do resize and deprime that the rod should just push it on through the hole and out with the old primer.
The noise of the vibrator doesn't bother me, I'm used to working in a factory and just zone it out. But was amazed how clean they where, I did put some case polish in with the media however. I found that a microfiber cloth will really help shine the brass also.
Thanks again
[I]Bowers 2123[/I][COLOR="#0000FF"][/COLOR][SIZE=4][/SIZE]
I got the Lee Deluxe Reloading kit and the Deluxe Die kit in .308, last night, so this thread is perfect timing.
I have a bunch of 7.62 brass to clean and prep. Is there a recommended way to remove the crimp on the 7.62 primers?
I am looking at 2 loads for right now.
A 200gr Cast load for handgun silouhette.
A 160gr Barnes Tipped TSX bullet for hunting (deer/elk)
I am still open on powders, but, I noticed the pocket Lyman Guide came with notes referencing what was most accurate in their test rig, so I see it as a good starting point.
Savage Axis for hunting and a custom barreled break action in .308 for IHMSA
Some things I think are useful. I noticed trimmers were mentioned, some with a chamfering tool. Must be nice. you mentioned match grade ammo. Attention to case prep is critical.
Case trimmer
Case prep tools. The Lyman VLD is good stuff. Both inside and outside chamfer tools. They sell a kit with lots of good stuff in it. Like...
Flash hole deburr tool.
Carbide Primer uniformer. (not cleaner but a true cutter)
Case headspace measuring tool. Hornady is a good set if you have a...
Dial caliper (Analog does not need batteries. Must read .xxx)
Stoney Point (Hornady) gauge with corresponding case gauge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyUxXYwqtlM This video will show you what the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager will do to the 7.62 NATO crimped primer pocket.
Also, remember that the 7.62 NATO case is not the same as the commercial 308 brass. The military brass is thicker and the case capacity is smaller than the .308. So, if your loading at near maximum loads, approach these with caution and watch for pressure signs. Start your loads at least 5% under the maximum.
Dave
I use the Lee universal de-capping die and de-cap all my brass before I put it in my Lizard bedding material(Walnut) I get from pet stores. Have never had it leave a red tint to the brass....comes out real shinny! Throw in a used drier sheet and it will help with the dust.
If any media is in the flash holes it is removed when I size the brass
For .308 I have the Lee dies w/Factory Crimp Die and Redding competition seating die . My go to powder for .308 is Varget and my gun loves Sierra 168gr HPBT Match, but I only shoot out to 450yrds
Trimmers I use the CTS Trimmer. You do have to chamfer and deburr in a separate step, but no biggie with the RCBS prep center.
Good luck, have fun and do not take short cuts!!
I started with the Lee Anniversary kit and still use the press and priming tool. I like the Lee cutter & lock stud/case trimmer. I found Lee powder thrower thrower and scale to be a little bit lacking as I became more experienced and replaced them with the Redding BR powder thrower, scale, and trickler kit. I replaced the Lee chamfer/deburring tool with the RCBS one for VLD bullets. I have a lot of Lee dies as well as RCBS and Forster.
Got to looking at my FMJ they are 150gr but doesnt have a name brand. Also i cant find a powder weight to use on it. what would be a good recomidation for a beggining powder weight? im useing varget. would it it be close for most fmj's manufactures loads.
my lyman book didnt have a load data for 150 fmj.
Go to Hodgdon website they show 42.3-47 grains for the 150 grain bullets.
Thanks, i had looked at it and found two bullet types 1 being 150 gr NOS BT and the other type being 150 gr NOS E-TIP. Whats the difference in BT and E-TIP? I beleive i know, i just dont want to make a critical mistake.
I beleive the E-TIP Hogdon/Varget 42.3 gr min and 46.5C max is what you said to look at right.
Thanks Dave
My plan is to start out at minimum listed and go up to the middle of the road. Sort of splitting the difference between min and max.
Are you suggesting going 5% below minimum and start there as well?
The E-tip doesn't have a lead core.
Here is Nosler's data for those bullets in 308 > http://www.nosler.com/308-winchester
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks