case neck lube issue

[Texas Solo]

I've been loading .223 for many years, never had an issue using a spray lube, which conveniently lubes the inside of the case neck as well as the case body.
Now I'm loading .308 for the first time and I'm having issues getting the case past the expander on the upstroke.
Spray lube is working fine on the body, but evidently I need something better for the case necks.
Looking for suggestions of how you folks are lubing the inside case neck. What product and method?

I also saw that Lyman makes a 30 cal carbide decapping stem that fits RCBS dies. Anyone try it??

[fgw_in_fla]

I use a long wooden stick Q-tip - the kind the doc uses & a bit of Imperial Wax or Hornady One Shot. It depends on the mood I'm in that day.

Are you saying the neck won't pass over the expander as you insert the case? It should pass right over it if the case has been fired. The die squeezes the neck down & the ball opens it up to the proper size.
I know every once in a while I will have a case that the neck is tight enough to where the ball wipes the lube off on the in stroke. There's usually enough left to make it over the ball on the out stroke.

[Texas Solo]

Are you saying the neck won't pass over the expander as you insert the case?

No sir, I speaking about the upstroke of the press, AFTER the neck has been sized. Case entry to the die is not an issue, but getting the case back out, at the point where it encounters the expander, is the issue.

[twarren]

Try Imperial dry neck lube. Works for me on any size.

[fgw_in_fla]

No sir, I speaking about the upstroke of the press, AFTER the neck has been sized. Case entry to the die is not an issue, but getting the case back out, at the point where it encounters the expander, is the issue.

Ahhhh... Gotcha.
I like to use the imperial better than the One Shot. With a wood stick Q-Tip I can put as much or as little in the case neck. Also, I can get it in all the way to the shoulder / neck juncture.
I notice my 25.05 dies are a little "draggy" when I pull the ball thru unless I apply a generous dollop of sizing wax. All my other sizing dies pull thru smooth & easy.
I have taken the mandrel / neck sizers out of all my dies & polished them with steel wool while spinning it in a drill.
Also, relieve the leading edge or the ball so it passes thru without a sharp edge. give it a little bit of a bevel without reducing the overall diameter of the ball.

[fgw_in_fla]

By the way...
What kind of dies are we talking about?

Lyman has a pretty nice neck sizing set up with a free floating carbide ball.

[CharlieNC]

I barely stick the neck into a pail of Hornady wax. Better yet try Lee collet neck sizer, no lube needed.

[cqh1111]

I use Hornady Unique lube. I think it is about the same as Imperial wax. To lube the bodies, I put a dab on one hand and rub hands together to spread the lube, then I roll about 4-5 cases between my two palms. When I place a case in the press, I use my index finger to "scrape" the inside of the case neck in a few different directions which adds the lube. I only need to lube the necks of every 2-3 cases this way.

[Texas Solo]

By the way...
What kind of dies are we talking about?

Lyman has a pretty nice neck sizing set up with a free floating carbide ball.

Die is a new RCBS SB 308. I'm also considering the Lyman carbide decapping assembly, which fits the RCBS dies. I'm sure it's a lube issue, and my spray lube just isn't getting it done.
I think I'll try the Q-Tip method with some RCBS lube I have lying around. We'll see.
Thanks for the replies.

[n4ue]

Texas Solo, hi. I reload a lot of different bottleneck ctgs. I really like the Imperial dry method. I like a little Dillon spray on the outside, when fl sizing, it's just Alcohol/Lanolin....
Recently, I purchased the Lyman carbide decapper/expander for one ctg. I was so impressed, I bought one for each caliber. Not cheap, but STOS.... You'll love it.

ron

[yobuck]

i use a seperate cheap little lyman press with a decapping die for removing primers.
the one die fits all cartridges up to and including 378 weatherbys. that way i can remove
the decapping pins from all my dies and all the primer dirt is kept out of the dies.
i use a very small amount of imperial on my thumb and a few fingers and scrape a small amount onto
the neck opening. i have used rcbs lube and the sprays which i feel are inferior to imperial wax.

[BillPa]

Now I'm loading .308 for the first time and I'm having issues getting the case past the expander on the upstroke.
Spray lube is working fine on the body, but evidently I need something better for the case necks.
Looking for suggestions of how you folks are lubing the inside case neck. What product and method?

I also saw that Lyman makes a 30 cal carbide decapping stem that fits RCBS dies. Anyone try it??

I rarely lube the inside of the necks. If you almost rip the press off the bench getting expander back through the neck the brass needs annealed/ re-annealed.

You brass may also have donuts. As a rule lubing the inside of the necks only masks a problem, it doesn't fix it.

As far a inside neck lube is concerned if you must, graphite mixed in #8 shot works well. Stick the neck in the mix, give it a few quick twists and the shot will transfer the graphite to the neck. You can buy the Redding Dry neck lube, dump 3/4s of the graphite then add the shot to the container and give it a few shakes to coat the shot before each use. Some guys use Lock-Ease and shot in a old 35mm film container. Dump the LE in and allow the carrier to evaporate. Ether way one mix will last years.

Just make sure there isn't any shot in the case before going into the die. Its really efficient at bending-breaking decapping pins!!!

Lee makes a good inexpensive universal decapping die, one size fits all. I don't know it they changed it or not, but I had to turn down the stem for the 20cals. Its what I've been using for the last 10-15 years. It even punches out crimped mil primers without a problem.

Bill

[big norm]

I have the same problem with my RCBS small base die set but if I switch to my RCBS full length set or my Lee die set I dont have that issue..

Are you resizing military brass? Thats the only time I use my small base die set is when im sizing Lake City once fired brass for the first time! I use Imperial case lube in the neck and it seems to tame the issue!

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[bythebook]

I use Imperial Wax on the outside and powdered graphite or Imperial dry lube and a Q-tip on the inside of neck. I used to use Imp.wax but didn't like leaving it in .

[big norm]

Clean up after resizing is a pain, I just use hot water with dish soap.and it all cleans up well.. if you use a ultrasonic or stainless media you will have no probkem but im still using dry media and you get a lot of media stuck inside if they are not cleaned before tumbling!

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[J.Baker]

I've only ever ran into this problem with .204 and .223 brass, and the only reason it's been a problem with them is that by the time I exert enough force on the handle to get the expander back through the neck the shell holder rips the rim off the case head and I'm left with a case stuck in the die. No Fun! Definitely an inside neck lube issue though.

I use a lube pad to lube my cases for FL sizing, so I just started pressing the case mouth to get a little lube up inside the mouth of the neck. Works great and didn't have to add anything to my system. If that hadn't worked though my backup plan was to go with the Imperial Dry Lube/#8 shot combo like Bill mentioned above.

[stangfish]

I use a pad, I have found lucas oil treatment to do quite well. No dents and a little dab goes further than any other lube I've used.

[DrThunder88]

The only spray lubricant I've used is homemade, alcohol-thinned, Lee Case Lube in a cheap pump spray bottle. It worked just fine in my Lee dies when I got good enough coverage on the exterior and just a bit inside the neck. I've also tried more waxy lubricants like Hornady Unique and Imperial, and scraping the occasional case mouth against my wax-bearing finger tip seemed to be sufficient. Mobil 1 needed even fewer applications, but it's more for batch processing since it has to be removed completely.

[J.Baker]

Pledge furniture polish (in the spray can) works as a good case lube and you can get it cheap at the dollar store, but you have to make sure to wipe it off before it dries or you're left with a thick film that's a pain to get off. I'd only recommend spraying 20-30 cases at a time, sizing them, then wiping them down before starting another batch.

[BillPa]

I've only ever ran into this problem with .204 and .223 brass, and the only reason it's been a problem with them is that by the time I exert enough force on the handle to get the expander back through the neck the shell holder rips the rim off the case head and I'm left with a case stuck in the die. No Fun!

Definitely an inside neck lube issue though.

I have to disagree with ya there 'ol man. Its a brass problem. Work hardened brass hates to take on a new shape. As I said, I rarely lube the inside of the necks. About the only time is when I'm necking something up or down, making 338 Federal out of 308 Lapua for example.

What are the indications of hard brass? Almost rip'n the press off the bench pulling the expander back through, the brass "Squeal", cracked necks and inconsistent shoulder bump.

When it becomes a little rough or I hear the squeal pulling an expander back through the necks the brass and Mr. Propane Torch have a meeting.

I'll repeat, lubing the inside of the necks only masks a problem, it doesn't fix it.

Bill