Reply With QuoteWill measure and post results this afternoon.
Does anyone with a 10p-sr know the barrel diameter at the muzzle before the threads? I dont have a caliper.
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Will measure and post results this afternoon.
Awesome! I appreciate that, saves me some money on a tool id only use once.
My 10 FP is .842 , Now this is my factory heavy barrel .308
Using a piece of tape mine seems to measure .815 which im not sure is correct. I did length divided by pi. I might just have to eat the cost for a digital caliper and measure it again.
I just measured mine (10 P-SR) and I'm looking at .5980 and that is just BEFORE the threads (right at the onset of the crown). When I measure on top the threads (flat inside base of my calipers resting on the PEAKS of the threads) I measure .6195 and I'm using a set of Mitutoyo ABSOLUTE digital calipers.
Last edited by AgentMyth; 09-30-2013 at 05:55 PM.
I think you measured the wrong portion i was needing. Unless im reading it wrong. The above picture is where i measured on the actual barrel and not on the threading or crown. Thanks :)
.5880 at that point.
On the barrel BEFORE the cut down is .8020.
red line .8020
green line .5880
Thank you! Thats what i needed. Appreciate it.
Ps great picture editing that helps visualize a whole lot
I just got my 10 P-SR and I'm wanting a muzzle break to fit the .802 barrel contour. Anybody have any suggestions?
I went with ross schuler. Google the name or when i get back to a good signal area ill post it here. I told him the barrel diameter and the caliber and specifically asked for the exit hole to be reamed for .308 after he turned down the brake to match the barrel only cost me $45 shipped and ive seen nothing but great reviews.
I stumbled across his info in another thread and checked out his website before. I emailed him a couple questions about the brakes since I had a couple concerns. My first concern was how to get the brake timed to my rifle since his brakes have the dedicated side flutes. I could always use a crush washer but that would look pretty stupid if you ask me. Ross suggested having it turned down on a lathe but I don't know anybody that could do that for me. The other thing I don't like is that they only come in a stainless finish. I will say that for the money it seems like a really good deal even if it takes some fitting and painting. I just need access to a machine shop.Originally Posted by shooterfpga
Do you think I could safely/properly remove material from the brake using a disc style bench sander?
How did you time your brake? Do you have any pics of it installed? I'd love to see it.
Last edited by M4J0R T0M; 10-13-2013 at 01:09 AM.
Im on my way back from the canadian border to texas. It shipped while i was away so when i get home i will time it using a crush washer or shim and ill paint it using rattlecan. The look of it doesnt bother me to use either but since you want a sleeker look youll have to either sand the brake or have someone at a gun store or machine shop turn it for you.
Im thinking I might just buy one of those sanders from harbor freight and try it myself.
Got both my muzzle brakes installed. I got pretty close with the ross schuler one timing it without a crush washer but finally gave up sanding for now and threw it on there. It blends good but blends even better without a crushwasher. The muzzle brake on the ar15 is a miculek again just install today.
Quick review on both, they are pretty good at what theyre made for i almost couldnt tell i fired a shot except for the louder noise. Stayed on target off hand unsupported.
Thanks for posting the pic. It looks like just the base is turned down to .802, is that right? Did you use a standard AR crush washer? Post a close up if you get a chance.
Yes its turned down closest to the barrel. And yes the crush washer i used was from an old 308 ar comp that came in the package and i never used it. I will post a close up soon.
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