There are ways to adjust this. Rather than a wire spring you have a coil spring...which is still wire but different.
I bought this gun of gallery of guns. Thought I bought the accutrigger but was obviously wrong. I opened it up expecting the pre accutrigger trigger so I could adjust it. Well I saw this thing. Is it an axis trigger?
There are ways to adjust this. Rather than a wire spring you have a coil spring...which is still wire but different.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
That yellow "gunk" you see on your trigger is a real weak thread locker. I just picked at it with a scratch awl (ice pic) and then just worked the screw and spring back and forth in the threads a bit and it all fell out.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Ok thanks I was like wth! The far back screw would decrease the trigger pull correct?
By the back screw do you mean the spring (blue arrow in pic below)?
The blue arrow is the spring and acts just like the straight wire spring on the old triggers. To adjust simply screw it in or out. In to lighten, out to add pull weight. The red arrow is pointing to the safety adjust screw. This will only need adjusting if you switch that trigger to a different action or put a new one on this action.
If you cannot screw in the spring far enough to lighten your pull weight, you may try clipping 1/2 or 1 coil off the top (as in the pic) of the spring and then stretching it out. Sometimes that works well. But I would try adjusting it first before clipping it at all. And remember if you clip it, you can always clip more off, but you can't put it back on after its cut. So clip a lil bit at a time.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Thanks bud
Axis trigger....also same trigger used on the Stevens 200.
Anytime. That's why we're all here. Members helping members.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
I did a build using a new Stevens 200 and ran into this trigger. Assembled incorrectly from the factory, the spring was screwed all the way out of the trigger and the hole was full of thread locker. Pull was on the order of 15 pounds. I did manage to adjust it down to about 6 pounds and it is much better, but without clipping the spring I won't get it any lower. I much prefer the older trigger. Blitzfike
NRA Endowment Member
All you can really do to this trigger is clip the spring and lighten the pull a bit but I've never been a big fan of doing that. You can also polish the sear engagement surface to smooth it up a little but you will still have a sloppy trigger. I know it's more money but you would be well advised to invest in a Rifle Basix Sav1 trigger if you want a really nice trigger. They are adjustable for sear engagement, weight of pull, over travel, and safety adjustment.
The Sav1 isn't compatible with the new Stevens 200, I'm waiting on them to release a Sav1 that is compatible with it. Jim at NSS is the one who told me that it wouldn't work with the new Stevens 200. The Sear engagement surface is surprisingly smooth on this one. I am not a fan of working on the Sear contact points with anything other than an Arkansas Hard stone at best. In all my years of working on guns, I've seen a lot of sear engagement notches really ruined by well intentioned home gunsmiths, the worst being worked on by a Dremel.
NRA Endowment Member
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