I'm the opposite--I'm a "**** the torpedoes, full speed ahead" kinda of guy and with a 99% chance of success I'll figure out a way to screw it up. : )
I always do a lot of independent research before jumping into something that has a 50/50 chance of how it will work out. I'd prefer to make the odds more in my favor of going my way if I can.
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I'm the opposite--I'm a "**** the torpedoes, full speed ahead" kinda of guy and with a 99% chance of success I'll figure out a way to screw it up. : )
[B][COLOR="#FF8C00"]Shooting--it's like high-speed golf[/COLOR][/B]
The thing about this project is I only get one chance with everything because all I have is one stock to play with!
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I made the first cut to start shaping the adjustable butt plat unit I got. It's made out of anodized aluminum, so I realized after the first cut it would take me weeks to do with a dremel and probably about 100 of those little metal cutting discs. I will be picking up a bench grinder next payday to continue that portion of the job.
Not to be a smart a$$ but NEVER grind aluminum with a bench grinder. All you will do is clog up the al oxide wheels.
Get a bench type belt sander.
ron
That would be more of an investment than I would prefer. Hmm.... Maybe I can rent one from home depot or something. Make for a good project next weekend!
It's not me doing it correctly, it's getting the intended results!
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So is it a 50/50 that it will work because of the squirrely recoil lug?
I figure it's a 50/50 chance of doing it right or wrong when the project is something that you only get one chance because you're working with something that you can't easily fix or replace like a stock. Gotta find a way to raise those odds every time you do something that can't be undone. Some good research and proper preparation before starting raises those odds along with taking your time.
With a glass bedding project proper planning and preparation are very important because you are working with a more limited amount of time. So, I think I'm going to take that on next month and try to finish up the adjustable butt plate this month.
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Last edited by LoneWolf; 09-09-2013 at 12:01 AM.
Well gentlemen the wife got me a bench grinder for our 6year anniversary. So, last night I started on fitting the SPS2 to the stock.
Original picture:
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Where I got to last night:
[/IMG]
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For comparison:
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I am about halfway done with grinding the first plate and will upload more pics tonight after I get some more done.
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Last edited by LoneWolf; 09-10-2013 at 12:25 PM.
2/3 plates rough sized:
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Should be finished up by the end of the week.
Plan to have the Cerakoted once finished.
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Looking great. I'm looking forward to getting that stock on my .243. What's the weight of the stock, compared to the factory plastic?
I'd advise go for their mil-quad reticle and pass up on the mil-dot. The mil-quad is a MRAD (mil-mil 10:1 MOA @ 100) which makes most of your range calculations easier--as well as finer for the "precision" shot. The dots are actually hollow triangles so at longer ranges you are centering the POA within that triangle (if doing hold-overs).
[B][COLOR="#FF8C00"]Shooting--it's like high-speed golf[/COLOR][/B]
It's definitely heavier than the factory, but it's a laminate. With the factory sporter barrel it definitely felt much more comfortable. I'm a big guy, so the 2 1/2in hand guard is much more comfortable. The length of pull is good for a hunting rifle where you wouldn't be shooting from the prone much if you're a taller guy. They will offer the option of a one inch recoil pad as well. I felt I needed a little more, so went fully adjustable. I intend to use it for long range prone or bench shooting locally though.
It's definitely above and beyond an improvement to the factory stock.
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Last edited by LoneWolf; 09-11-2013 at 07:49 AM.
I like MOA adjustments because I can already visualize what an MOA is out to the ranges I play with and get myself on target by making adjustments in my head. It's not something I have to relearn only practice more.
Same with the mil dots. I'm not a fan of busy over technical sight pictures.
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Maybe! Still have things to learn before I experiment with other gear.
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Thanks for the info! I've actually had a plan, very similar to your build, for my .243, but I just haven't been able to find a decent stock. As soon as Richard's pushes out this stock, I'll get it going. Oh, and did you do your own barrel install? I've never done one, and I'd like to switch mine out for a faster twist and heavier contour.
It was very easy if you get an action wrench(MidwayUSA), barrel nut wrench(MidwayUSA), Go and No-Go Gauges(MidwayUSA), and a good bench vise(Harbor Freight and Tools). Once you get it apart make sure you clean the threads very thoroughly it will make the install much easier that way.
Other tools I recommend and forgot to list are a breaker Bar and Torque wrench!
Last note: If it is not time sensitive take your time. Things go wrong when you try to rush them!
Sounds straight-forward enough. I've read about it a little, but never seriously. Oh, and in my reading (and inspecting a couple of my own Savages), there seem to be tiny beads in between the threads of the barrel and the nut. Will removing the barrel nut with them in there affect the threads of the current barrel/barrel nut?
And again, thank you very much for taking the time to answer!
No Problem! I hope they start releasing aftermarket stocks soon, so that I'm not the only one enjoying an Axis that hangs in there with "higher end" rifles.
Thank you all for following my build project and not trying to beat me up for additional information that I am unable to release about the stock.
Word is still late fall as far as i know, by the way!
Nice build.
I was a hair width away from purchasing the same package for my Axis .308 but the kill factor was the turrets...i was/am set on mil-mil. Excellent choice though.
[B]"Fumeiyo Yori Shi"[/B]
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