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Thread: Cutting Savage 111 Stock

  1. #1
    ycastane
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    Cutting Savage 111 Stock


    I just realized after installing the Weaver rail and Nikon rings P Series that it is still to far out so i was told its the length of pull. How can i go about cutting the stock? Should i take it somewhere or is that something i can do?

  2. #2
    davemuzz
    Guest
    Who told you that the LOP was too short for you? Are you a "short fellow." (Nothing wrong with that....but just a question.) If you used the "P" series rings...did you mount them backwards? (Backwards so the scope would be closer too your eye?) Here is how the P rings are suppose to be mounted. Click the little video tab below the first image of the first ring. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/815...op-ar-15-matte

  3. #3
    ycastane
    Guest
    Yes i did and the scope it still to far for proper eye relief. I can adjust myself but i'd rather feel comfortable than having to adjust my body/head fwd. Unless i can get another rail that extends back even longer!

  4. #4
    thomae
    Guest
    Length of pull is important with respect to your trigger hand grip on the stock and how your finger contacts the trigger. It is the length from the buttpad to the trigger. It also plays a part in how the butt of the rifle contacts your shoulder and whether or not your shoulder is sore after shooting.

    You should make sure you have the correct length of pull independent of your scope eye relief.

    Once your length of pull is good, then mount the rifle to your shoulder correctly in whatever position you are most likely to shoot, all the while keeping your eyes closed. When you open your eyes, your scope eye should be aligned with the scope and the eye relief should be correct. If it is not, instead of moving your head forward or rearward, move the scope forward or backwards until it is good.

    If you are too high or too low, you may need a cheek riser or higher or lower mounts/rings.

    Savage rifles, especially the long actions, often need a long scope rail in order to bring the scope far enough toward the rear to have proper head alignment and sight picture.

    Some folks don't need them, I know I do. Especially with modern, shorter scopes. This also has to do with your eyes. Your scope setup on a rifle may be different than my setup with the same scope and rifle. It all has to do with ergonomics and anthropometrics.

    SO, pull length and sight picture/eye relief and scope mounting position are all somewhat related, but they are different. If your length of pull is correct, I would suggest that you do not cut your stock in order to get your eyes closer to the scope.

  5. #5
    ycastane
    Guest
    I have not checked the rifles LOP just yet, will do tonight! I think i definitely will need a longer rail perhaps to fix the issue.

  6. #6
    davemuzz
    Guest
    Here's a pic of my Savage Carbine with a full length EGW picatinny rail mount. The nice thing about a full length mount is you have a bunch of options of where you can mount your scope. Plus, these are much stronger than a two piece scope base.


  7. #7
    ycastane
    Guest
    Mine is the same but stock a lot longer. I'll take a photo once i get home!

  8. #8
    Basic Member
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    I had the same problem with my Savage 110. My solution was to remove the action, level the stock and cut off 1 inch with a Dewalt miter saw. I measured (with help) the distance from eye to scope and estimated the distance I wanted my eye to be from the scope. The difference as you might have guessed was 1 inch.

  9. #9
    davemuzz
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by ycastane View Post
    Mine is the same but stock a lot longer. I'll take a photo once i get home!
    Yeah....post it. I would like to see your current set up.

    Dave

  10. #10
    pitsnipe
    Guest
    Muzz has a great photo of what I have found to be a "general rule" for "proper" scope placement. The ocular end (the one you look through) is placed (forward/back) so that it is aligned with the center of the pistol grip with an ever so slight favor to the rear if in any direction. And of course, this placement is determined with the scope on its highest power (if a variable) as that is the least amount the eye relief will be.
    But as Thomae pointed out, cutting the stock would be my LAST resort, assuming of course the distance from the trigger to the butt is not longer than your fore arm.
    Good luck!

  11. #11
    thomae
    Guest
    Scope placement will also vary depending upon whether you are aligned for offhand, seated, or prone shooting...each one has a slightly different cheekweld/head placement. My 6.5 swede, sporting a Bushnell elite fixed 10 power scope (rather short) has the rear ring in the most rearward position on the EGW rail, and the ring is up against the center bulge that contains the azimuth and elevation turrets. The rear of the scope is in the center of the left thumbhole cutout in my Boyd's thumbhole stock, so it is a little farther back than pitsnipes "rule of thumb, " but not much.

    Each individual varies, and although we can all adjust to the scope position, if you adjust the scope position to the shooter, there is less tension and with a more relaxed shooter, generally you have a more consistent shooter. (YMMV).

    ...and yes, that is why we all shoot the best in our dreams...we are most relaxed.

  12. #12
    ycastane
    Guest
    Okay here are the photos i took of the set up i have. The rail is definitely going back since it doesnt work with those rings which give me the greater offset, right now the rings are not bolted down since the screw doesnt fit, replacing it with a picatinny. Anyways also you will see the LOP of this rifle, measured mine and it came to be 13".

  13. #13
    Ed Carey
    Guest
    For me and I'm not a tall/large person at all but that set up would put the ocular bell in the top of my head, way too high way too far back, I would try lower rings, LOP seem about standard

    Ed

  14. #14
    ycastane
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Carey View Post
    For me and I'm not a tall/large person at all but that set up would put the ocular bell in the top of my head, way too high way too far back, I would try lower rings, LOP seem about standard

    Ed
    Perhaps but as i stated before the height is not the issue is the eye relief. With the current way is set up the scope it is still to far away to have a perfect picture. I put this rings on just because it gives me an offset so i can pull the scope further back towards me, the other rings are your standard straight down rings which the eye relief was even worse.

  15. #15
    thomae
    Guest
    With the scope as it is in the picture, and set on its highest (9?) power, when you shoulder the rifle with your eyes closed, making sure the buttpad is in the "pocket" of your shoulder, not on your arm or on your chest, and then open your eyes without moving your head, are you looking through the scope with a full picture (no " dark halo around the outside) and the reticle centered in the scope?

    If I were able to do so, and if I could then move my head back at least a little and still have a good sight picture, then I would move the scope forward a corresponding amount.

    Where are you located? Perhaps some one can meet with you in person and help you figure this out. Something does not seem quite right.

  16. #16
    ycastane
    Guest
    Well where it is at the moment and i do as you mentioned i do not get a clear picture, the picture has dark shades around it and the circle small compared to when i slightly move my head forward i get the clear picture perfect circle with reticle centered. Im in Miami FL

  17. #17
    Mach2
    Guest
    You need to focus your ocular. I can see in the pic that it is in the all-the-way-forward position. Aim it up at the sky or at a blank ceiling or wall and adjust the ocular ring till the crosshairs are crisp.

  18. #18
    davemuzz
    Guest
    Well, IMHO the scope is sitting really high. I mean, you can't possibly get a good cheek to stock "weld" with this set up. I think you have to get regular rings that will bring the scope down so the objective lens (front lens) can get as close to the barrel as possible. I mean like 1/8" or closer. Then you can look at perhaps installing a thin recoil pad if (as you didn't mention the caliber) your shooting a low or no recoil caliber such as a .223 or .204.

    Dave

  19. #19
    ycastane
    Guest
    Ohhh yeah i was waiting for someone to mention the recoild pad lol. Its a 30.06 so i think that rules that out lol

  20. #20
    Basic Member big honkin jeep's Avatar
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    That setup is way, way, way too high. If you're getting a blacked out look through the scope that is why. There is no way to get a cheek weld with a setup that high even if you're 8' tall without a very tall cheek riser or a tactical style stock with a high comb. Those rings are designed for an AR that has a buffer tube and has no drop at the comb. Putting them on a rifle with a hunting stock just aint gonna work without bringing up the comb with a riser of some sort.

    If you really must, shortening a synthetic stock is no biggie just cut her off. Depending on haw short you want it a couple of things may come into play after shortening you will have to reshape the recoil pad to match the new stock contour. This can be done by hand with a good flat file and some sand paper or the process can be sped up with a belt sander. Depending on how short you go you may have to relocate the sling swivel stud forward as well. lastly the areas that the screws secure to may have to be rebiuilt with epoxy if you take that much off. you can easily take off an inch or so without worrying about that last step.
    Last edited by big honkin jeep; 08-12-2013 at 09:56 PM.
    A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.

  21. #21
    ycastane
    Guest
    I'll try back with the low profile rings the one i had on this rifle and see if that is the issue, might be and im blaming it on something else. Will do that tomorrow and post update! Thanks for the help so far fellas!

  22. #22
    Basic Member
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    Unless you are some freak of nature, that whole set-up is wrong. Get rid of the dog leg rings and go back to low or medium rings. Then set the scope 2" forward of where it is now, unless you like black eyes...
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  23. #23
    Mach2
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by sharpshooter View Post
    Unless you are some freak of nature, that whole set-up is wrong. Get rid of the dog leg rings and go back to low or medium rings. Then set the scope 2" forward of where it is now, unless you like black eyes...
    LOL! Good one SS!

    YCastane if you are 5"7" the scope should be about 11" from the butt end of the stock. You can walk into any firearms store or Bass Pro or Cabela or Dicks Sporting Goods and get some free hands on help. Any range you go to will have other shooters who will help you as well.

    That 1st scope setup is a pain without a little help. You are almost there as it is.
    Last edited by Mach2; 08-12-2013 at 10:34 PM.

  24. #24
    ycastane
    Guest
    Yeah im 5'-11" and no is not the first scope i mount. Definitely know what eye relief is and how it should look. This doesnt, if im not mistaken i did try the regular rings but it was bad so i switched to this P rings to give more offset. This scope calls for a 3" eye relief. I'll see if i can take a photo while holding the rifle so you guys can see how far it is from my eye!

  25. #25
    Basic Member
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    I am 1" taller than you, and I can testify that if you shoot that 30/06 with that scope set up, "you are going to need stitches"! For some one 5'11" and normal length arms, a 13.5" lop is plenty short. Also, 3"s of eye relief on a 30/06 is minimal. If you shoot an '06 prone with that little eye relief, your probably gonna get "scope bit"! We are all trying to be helpful here :)! ... Best of Luck-Jim

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