Who does Camo Painting?

[Uncle Jack]

I'm good at metal work. I'm pretty good at wood work. At painting, I'm a disaster. My wife used to do all the interior painting in our house because she wouldn't let me near a brush or roller.

I have several stocks, both wood and synthetic, that I would like to have painted with camo or just subdued paint jobs. where do I go? Who does the best jobs and will get them done within my lifetime?

uj

[rjtfroggy]

UJ use a rattle can, stay 8-10 inches away and keep it moving.Look in Midway Cabela's or Brownells they all used to sell a camo paint kit, if not buy the colors you want from the hardware store. Krylon is pretty good. Pick a pattern you like or go out side and get a few leaves or pine needles and make your own stencil. Sand the finish a little and your good to go.

[dsculley]

I agree. My son (18 at the time) painted a .223 rifle he bought (the first rifle he could legally buy, found one on sale and had to get it just because he could). I assisted with the project. We used foliage from the area we hunt. He used 3 colors. Mask off anything you don't want painted. Spray the complete project with your lightest color first. Lay on some of your pattern material (leaves). Spray your second lightest color. Add more material and spray your darkest color. Make sure to allow drying time between coats. We sprayed one side, then turned the rifle over and repeated the process. He then applied a very light overspray with the light color just to mute everything. The results were amazing. Make sure you apply several light coats to avoid runs. Another tip is to start the spray a couple of inches to one side of the gun, then make a steady pass all the way across. Release the spray once you have cleared the gun, then repeat from the other direction. I wish I had the rifle here so I could post a pic for you, but he has it with him at college. Use your imagination and go slowly. Besides, if you do make an error, it is easy to remove and start over. Good luck.

[calib]

uncle jack where are you located

[Uncle Jack]

Bozeman, Montana

[calib]

if you where closer to spokane i would show you how i do it. just get a few different color matte finish colors preferably that match what youre wanting to hunt in. maybe grab some vegitation(grass, leaves, what ever) maybe practice on some butcher paper to figure out what color you want in wich layer. make sure your scope, bolt whatever you dont want painted is taped up, and do like they said earlier 8-10" away and keep it moving over the surfaces. when you use the veg just hold it up against the stock, and lightly shoot over it a few passes, and it will eventualy blend or look the way you want it. i useualy use a bit of the textured paint just so it breaks the surface up a bit. i have done quite a few stocks, and whole guns just remember if you get to a point where you dont like what you have going on stop. i have had that happen and i think it looks worse if you just keep going on and on with layers.

[rjtfroggy]

UJ I just received a master catalog from midway and they show a few different paints for stocks and gun finishes. They also show a kit for camo jobs that appears to have a stencil that comes with it.

[Uncle Jack]

Thanks, I'll take a look.

uj

[mwilson]

here is some of the ones my son and i have done. very easy
http://ingunowners.com/forums/long_g...o_10_22_a.html

[Hunter5280]

Hey UJ if you want some of the best paint jobs and willing to put some money down. Contact Manners Stock they have done some nice stuff.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubb...440#Post882440

[Uncle Jack]

Hunter, that's some nice looking stuff.

uj

[lomfs24]

Uncle Jack,
I just did mine in pretty much the same way dsculley described. It was my first attempt and I think it came out pretty well. I used Krylon's camo colors, ultra matte color. I don't remember the names of the colors but they are black, brown, green and tan. I prayed a coat of light tan, followed buy spray patterns of local flora and fauna (mostly from the spruce tree outside my front door). Taped off what I didn't want sprayed and went to town.

You can see a picture of it in this thread. It's near the bottom of page six.

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,17520.0.html


I'd be willing to paint some stocks for you if you had an extra 22-250 or 220 Swift barrel laying around. ;D But I would in no way consider myself a professional.

[8x57mm]

My First Go.

[img width=600 height=204]http://home.comcast.net/~v2creative/camo11.jpg[/img]


Process and range report at:

http://home.comcast.net/~v2creative/camo.html



JR

[joseph]

This is the first time and only time I have painted a stock. Really very easy it took about 3 hours including drying time:

http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=366263&highlight=

http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=374570&highlight=

joseph

PS: I did think about how I would do it for about a month before I attempted to do it though.

[jwpark]

http://www.snipercentral.com/forums/...ic.php?t=22437

Doesn't seem that hard to do.

Jay

[AVanGorder]

Hydro dipping is another option

http://www.hydrodipping.com/Rifles/index.html
http://www.hydro-dip.com/index.htm

[head2h2o]

You can try Larson tactical. They have a lot of the different patterns that are available on their website. If you are just looking for a single color, tape is up and grab the Krylon. Save yourself some money.

[kelhawk]

I'm not sure if Uncle Jack would attempt this, but I covered 5 or 6 stocks with camoflage T-shirts over 20 years ago. They still look "great" with no apparent deterioration. At the time only woodland camo was prevalent, now I yearn to do some with modern patterns. I did it by lightly stretching the cut up shirt around the various contours and "tacking" the stretch in place with super glue. At the buttstock and grip areas I did a visible seam by overlapping a purposely jagged cut over the other side. Obviously the forward seam edges terminate inside the inletting. The process was quite forgiving. To complete, I "wet-out" the fabric with optically clear fibreglass resin, then immediately blotted away the excess resin to provide the dull appearence desired. With the woodland pattern the final resin application would darken the pattern somewhat, so I experimented with lightly bleaching the cloth before application, but it seemed to affect the colors. A naturally faded Mossy Oak Brush should turn out great! Provides a great grip texture over wood or fibreglass, but the resin could "attack" some synthetic stocks and finishes, and it will add more weight than paint.
Kell