Did you do the cocking ramp?
So, I have the rifle back together, waiting on my EGW base, and SWFA Scope.
Today as I was playing with the feeding of dummy rounds, and the trigger (still needs work) I noticed that the bolt was really stiff after the trigger is pulled. It felt like a ratcheting sand grit feel lifting the bolt handle.
So I polished the contact surfaces on the bolt baffle, and the bolt handle, I took 95% of the tool marks off using very fine 600grit sandpaper and a flat sheet of glass as a backer. Did that for both contact surfaces. Then I noticed that the bolt had a noticeable hitch in the raising the bolt handle to I polished the contact angle on the handle. It was very rough.
Finally I moved up to a felt wheel and flitz. By the time I was done it was mirror smooth for 98% of the contacting surface. That helped immensely in feel. Both areas were very porous, and rough, with alot of tool chatter marks. I got everything but the deepest spot with the littlest sanding possible.
Then tonight I realized that another big contact area was the bolt assembly screw. So I polished the contact area on it. But to do one better I did the home made 38spec BB trick, along with a dab of tetra grease it came out fantastic.
Even if the BB flattens a bit, it is still a VAST improvement over the stock. I also polished out the middle to a mirror finish to reduce as much friction as humanly possible.
Lugs have been lapped and polished, so has the cocking pin. Everything that could be polished has been. I have found with Flitz over the last 10 years of using it, that it not only polishes but also imbues rust inhibitors to the metal. Over the last 10 years I have gone through 10 big 64oz cans of flitz on hundreds of guns, and have never had rust show up after a polish with it, even in sweat or moist environments.
Last edited by triehl27; 07-30-2013 at 04:52 AM.
Did you do the cocking ramp?
Yes I did, it was a bit tougher, so I hand did it with 500 grit to remove the tool chatter, then flitz it, and was dang careful not to change the angles. I did add a very tiny bevel to the bottom of the angle on the bolt handle that first impacts the ramp so as to get rid of the sharp angle there, that was hanging up a bit at the bottom of the ramp on opening.
I love the Flitz too. Recently started using Frog Lube which is a great product too, esp for bolt.
triehl27: You do know that the cocking ramp in part of the bolt body, not on the bolt handle, right? Just want to make sure. The diagonal surfaces on the bolt handle and rear baffle are for primary extraction.
When I polish surfaces, I use a pack from an auto store. I start with 320 if really rough (usually trigger guard, bolt handle etc).
Then go to 600, 800, 1000, 2000 and 4000 grit.
600 grit is OK but I never stop there. Use black or red marker on the surfaces, then polish it off. Low spots shot up easily.
I sit in front of the TV polishing for hours. Like you I use plate glass for the flat surfaces.
Also sit there and work a new rifles bolt a couple hundred times a day for several days.
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