Got My New Burris Signature Zee Rings...

[Silvercrow1]

Always great to take a trip to Cabelas-like a kid in a candy store I've gotta oogle everything! Picked up a set of Burris Sig. Zee's 1" med., matt. I believe they are going to solve one problem immediately; with the EGW rail and Warne med. Maximus rings my scope (Nikon Prostaff 4-12x40) I was at the lower-most verticle area when sighting in the other week. The Sig. Zees, although also listed as medium, are much lower than the Warnes I had on my 110 .223 LA. So I did the "mirror" trick to mechanically re-center the recticle, and I'm looking forward to sighting the rifle in with these new rings.

I was a little disappointed that Cabelas (Hamburg Pa., BTW) did not carry the Posi-align inserts. In fact the "Scope Dude" I talked too didn't seem to know anything about these inserts. Because my scope with the Warne's was also extremely horizontally set at sight in, a couple of you good folks suggested I get the offsets to correct this.

I ordered the offset insert kit from Brownells. Once they come it I'll take 'em with me to the range and get everything "straight".

Not being well versed in all things rifle, I was wondering if anyone experienced problems removing their Sig. Zees once mounted? Because the base-part is integral to the frame, I wonder that once the rings are secure to the base if there will have to be any prying to loosen the grip?

I hope I did this right, but I took the cross bolts out to slide the rings on to the EGW base. They fit very well side-to-side and didn't take much torgue to seat them. After making sure they were "forward" in the notches, I torqued them to 35 inch pounds. I torqued the cap bolts to about 18 inch pounds. It all seems very secure.

Anything else I need to know? I imagine that when I haul all this to the range it may be a challenge to get the right inserts into the right position within the rings. Maybe I'll be fortunate enough to not even need the offset inserts

Also-can someone explain what I read in an archived post? It was said that you can put, say a .10 insert into the front ring and a .5 into the rear ring to get a total of .15 deflection? Did I read that right? Trying to understand how that works. I always try to understand the mechanics of anything I use so I have the knowledge and if necessary can pass it on to someone else if need be.

As always- THANKS! Brian

[1983Weatherby]

Take a inch lb torque wrench with you. Make sure they are set to 22inch lbs on the rings and 80inch lbs on the ring to base screws.

I have the burris XTR rings so I can't comment on the shims. In theory they sound great, but I don't like shimming due to possibly bending the tube.

[thomae]

The ring to base fit can be tight, but when you take off the rings it is no tighter than it was. I have some bases on which I can slide the rings on and others require a bit more persuasion, but never more than a gentle tapping with a piece of scrap wood.

Base crossbolt recommended torque is 30 in pounds and ring screws 20 in pounds so you are in the ballpark.

As to your question about signature zee inserts, please read this and see if it helps. It explains it better and faster than I.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/pdf/Sig_rings.pdf

[thomae]

Take a inch lb torque wrench with you. Make sure they are set to 22inch lbs on the rings and 80inch lbs on the ring to base screws.

I have the burris XTR rings so I can't comment on the shims. In theory they sound great, but I don't like shimming due to possibly bending the tube.

Please no, no, no. 80 inch pounds is way too much. I hope that is a typo. Per my several discussions with Burris reps, 30 is the correct number for the ring to base crossbolts/crossscrews.

The posalign inserts are very different than shimming because they actually pivot within the metal rings. They can't torque your scope at all.

[Silvercrow1]

Please no, no, no. 80 inch pounds is way too much. I hope that is a typo. Per my several discussions with Burris reps, 30 is the correct number for the ring to base crossbolts/crossscrews.

The posalign inserts are very different than shimming because they actually pivot within the metal rings. They can't torque your scope at all.

Thanks Thomae! I kinda knew instinctively that 80 I.P. was WAY too much; heck, my Whelan FAT wrench only goes to 65. And thanks for the link! The instruction "sheet" for the rings shows how to place the inserts, but no real detail. Looking forward to this! Brian

[J.Baker]

Take a inch lb torque wrench with you. Make sure they are set to 22inch lbs on the rings and 80inch lbs on the ring to base screws.

I have the burris XTR rings so I can't comment on the shims. In theory they sound great, but I don't like shimming due to possibly bending the tube.

80 inch pounds on the ring-to-base screws? That's WAY too much, and you'll snap the heads off the stock slotted screws trying to get there. 20-25 inch/lbs is sufficient for the ring caps and 35-40 inch/lbs is more than sufficient for the ring to base crossbolts.

As for having to pry them to get them off, well...not typically but if you over torque them like was suggested you'll have to. I have however had to pry them open a little to get them to fit onto my bases - mostly for mil-spec picatinny rail-type bases. The low-end Weavers are generally a little undersized so they'll usually slip right on.

As for using the inserts, you have to use them in pairs. For example, if you use a +10 half in the bottom of the rear, you need to use a -10 half in the top of the rear. If you're needing to adjust for windage, you do the same but just put the halves in vertically rather than horizontally. If you need both vertical and horizontal, you can do them so the halves come together at say 1 and 7 o'clock, or 2 and 8 o'clock, etc. to shift the POI in the direction needed. It's a tedious process but it's worth the effort.

This video might help to...

http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...to-use-INSERTS

[1983Weatherby]

My XTR rings said 65-100. So I assumed the same. Sorry if I gave bad info. I put my XTR's at 80 and they didn't strip etc. they are holding fine.

[Silvercrow1]

As for having to pry them to get them off, well...not typically but if you over torque them like was suggested you'll have to. I have however had to pry them open a little to get them to fit onto my bases - mostly for mil-spec picatinny rail-type bases. The low-end Weavers are generally a little undersized so they'll usually slip right on.

As for using the inserts, you have to use them in pairs. For example, if you use a +10 half in the bottom of the rear, you need to use a -10 half in the top of the rear. If you're needing to adjust for windage, you do the same but just put the halves in vertically rather than horizontally. If you need both vertical and horizontal, you can do them so the halves come together at say 1 and 7 o'clock, or 2 and 8 o'clock, etc. to shift the POI in the direction needed. It's a tedious process but it's worth the effort.

This video might help to...

http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...to-use-INSERTS

Cool! Thanks Mr. Furious! Makes sense now. And 1983Weatherby- I know you had no intention of giving bad info. For your Burris rings it was proper. My buddy uses some high end tact. rings on his long range guns, with scopes he owns like Schmidt & Bender, US Optics. The torque values on those tactical rings gives you tendonitis just thinking about it!

The Sig. Zees already mount the scope, hence the front bell, lower so I believe one problem solved already. And with the inserts coming...I predict happiness (and dead groundhogs) are in my future!

I'll take the torque driver and probably all my "stuff" to the range!

Brian