Sighting in

[308]

I am a new member and have recently purchased a model 14 308 with a Nikon Monarch scope. Needless to say I was excited to get out and sight in the rifle. After having bore sighted the rifle, I headed to the range. I started at 25 yd, and then moved to 100 yds. It was fairly windy, but not ridiculous. I shot off sandbags resting the forearm and the toe of the gun. It felt quite stable, but my groups were horrible. Probably averaged around 4 in groups at 100 yards. I went through the proper "break in" for the barrel, and shot two types of ammo (Remington 150 gr core lokt and Winchester 168 gr Ballistic Silvertip). Obviously, I left feeling quite dejected.

Day Two: I bought some 180 gr Winchester powerpoint and Federal 165 gr Sierra BTSP. Cleaned the barrel. Checked to make sure all screws on the scope mount and screws on the stock were tight. Conditions were excellent. Headed out to the range and shot 4 more 3 shot groups using various ammo. Again, the groups were bad (about 4 inches at 100 yards). At this point, I was ready to throw my hands up in frustration. I was letting the barrel cool between all of the shots. What more need I do?

I looked at the rest, and it is one of those sandbags that looks like a "H" form the end view. I had the forearm "wedged" down into the sandbag, such that there was a fair amount of pressure surrounding the forearm (not touching barrel). I decided to turn the sandbag 90 degrees and "rest" (not "wedge") the forearm on the sand bag. By know I was getting close to 50 shots in two days and my shoulder was a little tender. However, I was able to average 2 inch groups on the next four 3 shot groups. This certainly gave me some confidence.

Has anyone ever encountered this problem with this style sandbag? Does anyone have any advice on how to improve the accuracy on this new factory rifle? (I adjusted the Accutrigger to 3# when I first bought it. Its clean and crisp. The barrel appears free floated and passes the "dollar bill" test)

Thanks for the help.

[bythebook]

I don't have as much experence with Savages as a lot of people here. But 2 simple things I learned with mine when I got it is too make sure the Tang is free floated and when you have the stock off and put it back on to follow the sequence for tightening the bolts described in the book from the factory. I am sure you will get a lot of good advice from others. Welcome the forum.

bythebook

[ellobo]

Historicaly Savage barrels need a lot of rounds downrange to smooth out and and tighten the groups. Savage bores can be pretty rough but are accurate in spite of that. If you clean thoroughly and decopper you may find that groups will open up until you have fired some more rounds. I scrub new Savage barrels with 4x steel wool on a cleaning jag. Works for me in the smoothing out process. I have done it to every new barrel I ever had not just Savage. Plus, I would stick with 168 gr. bullets, from all posts on this forum it seems they are the best in Savage .30 cal Barrels.

El Lobo

[jeffc2x]

Historicaly Savage barrels need a lot of rounds downrange to smooth out and and tighten the groups. Savage bores can be pretty rough but are accurate in spite of that. If you clean thoroughly and decopper you may find that groups will open up until you have fired some more rounds. I scrub new Savage barrels with 4x steel wool on a cleaning jag. Works for me in the smoothing out process. I have done it to every new barrel I ever had not just Savage. Plus, I would stick with 168 gr. bullets, from all posts on this forum it seems they are the best in Savage .30 cal Barrels.

El Lobo

Do you put any oil or Flitz on the steel wool?
JEFF

[GaCop]

Welcome to the world of Savages!

Besides breaking in the bore, The stock sounds like it needs some attention, ie, checking the barrel channel to insure ther barrel is free floated to the barrel nut by sliding a dollar bill under the barrel back to the barrel nut, any place touching the barrel will snag the bill. Sand paper around a 1/2 or 3/4" dowel will remove material touching the barrel The tang at the rear is another area that needs to be floated by simply removing material until a piece of note book paper will slide under the edges.

[MSG Janoski]

308,
Before you keep on scrubbing that barrel read through this;
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubb...96#Post1562996

Also next time out have another (experienced) shooter put a few rounds through your rifle and see how they do with groupings.
And I'd recommend while trying different cartridges keep them more alike. I.E. you first shot a Rem Core Lokt along with Win Ballistic Silvertip
which have two different bullet designs. Try shooting some Federal Match King with some HMS, Hornady Match & black Hill Match all in the same grain.

Another good "starter" article is;
http://demigodllc.com/articles/pract...equipment/?p=1

Good luck and keep shooting!

[oldtimer48]

don't give up i probably put 100-150 through the barrel before the groups shrunk to 1/2"-3/4" mine likes the black hills 168 win match bthp hard to find right now though

[308]

Thanks for all the help. I initially removed the stock to adjust the trigger pull. When I put the stock back on, I kept it in the horizontal position and tightened the screws. I have since reattached the stock using the directions in the manual which has you hold the gun vertical while pressing the barrel down. First tighten the front screw, then tighten the rear screw. This is to insure the recoil lug is seated properly. I hope this makes a difference.

The barrel is free floated to the locking nut. The tang is free floated up to about half of the distance to the safety when it is in the middle position (3 position tang safety).

I hope reattaching the barrel will help it come to life. Thanks again. More suggestions are welcomed.

308

[rjtfroggy]

308 It sounds to me that you applied pressure to the barrel via the stock when you wedged it into the bags. That will torque the barrel and change poi on every shot.
If possible pick up a bench rest even a inexpensive Hoppes is better than nothing, the bags have a tendency to change forarm position even the slightest change makes a big difference at 100 yards.
I have a model 10 fp 308 and it shoots 150gr. smk's to about .4-.5 consistently, a model 10 fp in 223 that if I do my part stays in the .3-.4. I also have 3 more Savages that are sporter barells that stay well under an inch@ 100 and 2 in the safe waiting to be sighted, hopefully they will do as well, but all my shooting for groups is done off a rest with a bag in back.
All my rifles are Savage except for a Bushmaster and I would not consider anything but Savage for a bolt action rifle.
Don't give up I'm sure it is something simple that can be corrected easily, like someone else said find the load it likes first then work on the other things.

[Bad Water Bill]

Just another suggestion. Have a trusted friend take your dollar bill and try sliding it down the channel as you are sighting in the rifle. There may be some contact there. Hope you get your dollar back. :)

[308]

I don't have as much experence with Savages as a lot of people here. But 2 simple things I learned with mine when I got it is too make sure the Tang is free floated and when you have the stock off and put it back on to follow the sequence for tightening the bolts described in the book from the factory. I am sure you will get a lot of good advice from others. Welcome the forum.

bythebook

I did not follow the sequence for attaching the stock back to the rifle. What kind of problem did you encounter? Should this effect accuracy?

[possum1]

Everything affect's accuracy

[Harriershot]

My model 14 in .243 shoots best off a Harris by-pod attached tightly to the front swivel screw. I use a shortened "H" style sand bag in the back that I rest my chin on for minimal cheek contact. I get some pretty darn good groups this way.

Charlie