Reply With Quotei personaly dont think youve missed anything.
i think a guy would be as well off with a mill dot reticle and learn how to use it on the gun it sits on.
I've not purchases a scope in over 15yrs, but am needing to purchase one for a new rifle.
I see many companies have come out with caliber specific scopes. I haven't gone to a local store to hold and view one, but the pics on the web show that the turrents have yardages on them. That being the case, how do these companies offset the PR nightmare of 2 drastically different loads.
Ex...I purchase a .223 specific scope. The manufacturer may have "doped" the scope for a hot load and may only drop a few inches at 300yrds. I, on the other hand, would like to shoot a heavier, slower round that may drop over 12" at 300yrds.
WHAT INFO AM I MISSING WITH THESE SCOPES?
i personaly dont think youve missed anything.
i think a guy would be as well off with a mill dot reticle and learn how to use it on the gun it sits on.
The caliber specific scopes usually use a very common factory ammo for the ballistics. Some for the AR and similar will have 62gr 5.56 mm NATO ball ammo as it's spec. Make sure you check if you are planning on using an AR scope on you .223 bolt gun.
thanks JCalhoun...that makes sense. I guess, my mind has gotten out of the "go to walmart and buy ammo" mode. Now that my rifle shoots a specific hand load, I havent' bought rifle ammo (other than 22) in over 14yrs. I wasn't looking at from the John Q. Hunter standpoint.
Glad I could help.
The Redfield I just got has two of those pre-marked turrets: one for .223 and one for .308. Both give a bullet weight, style, and muzzle velocity for which they were designed. Still, I'd be inclined to check out the load at various ranges to make sure they coincided with the marks. If not, it couldn't hurt to make new marks.
Reticles make more sense to use for rangefinding rather than calculating holdover. JCalhoun is right about a more generic reticule whether mil dot or some sort of MOA. It can be used for both tasks if you know how your rifle performs.
they work great for .22lr beyond that just use a mil dot.
Mouse trap?
Like others have stated, go with a mil dot or similar set up. The scopes that are set up for one particular caliber imply a whole lot of generalization. Things like temperature, humidity, elevation will have an impact on your trajectory. Not to mention the other variables between bullet weights, velocities, and "speed" of the barrel. Some barrels are faster than others.
actually reticles dont really do all that well as ranging devices. i suppose if you would insist on using one you mightOriginally Posted by DrThunder88
get better at it but with good rangefinders being available whats the point.
no doubt the most accurate way of shooting various distances is by dialing the scope.
it will only be as good as the information you have regarding your gun and load however.
generalities are just that and wouldnt be much if any better than a holdever.
spend a few days in a prairie dog town and you will soon grow tired of it and be looking for alternative methods.
wala the mildot reticle.
there are also custom labels you could install on the dial.
www.customturrets.com
I bought a Nikon M223 for my varmint .223. It is set up for a particular load, but It's easy to "dope out" whatever load you are shooting and cary the data with you or tape it onto your stock. The calibrated turret system works as advertised, but I find I rarely have time to "dial it in" in a hunting situation.
well its not only the dialing but also the un dialing to consider. newer scope dials have made it easier
to just look and know where you are with regard to your zero. but it still takes some thought which can lead to mistakes.
the safest method is returning to zero after each shot and start over with the next target. with a dozen or so dogs
waiting on you that can get old in a hurry.
I genearlly use a paper label on the turrets to mark my holdovers. You can buy a pack of labels for under $2 at Walmart. I zero then add a line for each 50 yards.
For the reticle I will always try to default to a MILDOT. I have tried the BDC reticles but they rarely work as intended.
whatever system you find that works well for (you) is what you should do.
this is the internet, the modern day barroom.
lots of information comes from those never having actually done it or even owning the product their talking about.
it does pay to listen because all of us can learn by doing that.
the milldot reticle used properly is the same as the 1 shot zero method for sighting in your gun.
it works for quick long range follow up shots just as well.
I think Nikon has a system whereby you send them your load data and they make your scope with reticle to match your load. Cabela's has an iPad on the scope counter for this.
But like has been said, what if you change loads.
One of the advantages to handloading is that you can work up loads with various bullet weights, styles...for a given firearm. Obviously the trajectory will be different for different loads. You will still need to know what each load does at diferent ranges and know how to dope your hold.
Even shooting factory I shoot at various distances with a given zero to ensure I know what is happening down range.
There are scopes that are basically mini-computers that allow you to input your load data and they calculate everything for you. It takes into account weather and wind and you just line it up and squeeze the trigger.
I imagine that the day will come when you input a whole library of loads or download data for factory loads and then zero once. In the scope will be your library of selected loads and it will move the crosshairs for you.
Nikon will make turrets that match but the only maker I know of that will make a BDC to your specifications is Leupold. You have to go through their custom shop.
I have also found that if a BDC reticle recommends a certain zero you can alter that by a few yards to fine tune your scope to your load. I have owned quite a few BDC reticle scopes and by in large most require fine tuning to work.
I have been using Ballistic FTE, now Ballistic AE, for several years now. It is about as close to a foolproof system there is. Input all your psecific data for your load and the weather for the day you zeroed. Beyond that you hit a button and it figures out where you are, the weather and elevation, then makes corrections. It will even make adjustments for the earth's rotation when shooting north or south.
I have Leopold's varmint hunter reticle on my 22-250. I have the main cross hairs set at 200yards. Shooting over a prairie dog town I can quickly learn at which mound matches up with which line in the scope. I may miss a few times figuring it out at the start of the day but by the end its deadly!
There are scopes that are basically mini-computers that allow you to input your load data and they calculate everything for you. It takes into account weather and wind and you just line it up and squeeze the trigger.
I imagine that the day will come when you input a whole library of loads or download data for factory loads and then zero once. In the scope will be your library of selected loads and it will move the crosshairs for you.[/QUOTE]
have you actualy seen these scopes or did that info come from the other end of the internet barroom?
Barrett Optical Ranging System (BORS)
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