Question on changing brass

[IUOE]

I worked up a load with winchester brass that was previously fire formed in my gun, the load ended up 1 gr. less than listed max with no signs of overpressure. As I sat back at the loading bench I got to thinking. How much difference would changing to Hornady or Federal brass that has also been fire formed to my chamber really make. Is this a no-no or would it not make much difference? Thanks for any advice.

[eddiesindian]

neck tension. after collet sizing, the case is still formed to your chamber but the neck is resized according to the mandrels/decapper size.
your still dealing with different stiffness of the brass though.
Id say got for it, chrono it, see what gives

[earl39]

You may also be dealing with different case capacity which can change pressures.

[fgw_in_fla]

I find Win brass will hold more powder than Fed or Rem. Hornady similar to Fed.
Usually when I work up a load I tune it to whichever brass gives the best accuracy. Differences in brass are subtle but enough to change the point of impact a little. Many times even close of open a group by using a different brass.

Remember: If it was easy, everyone would be able to do it.....

[stangfish]

[davemuzz]

The long range shooters always sort their brass by brand and if possible, by lot #'s. They do this for a reason.....consistency. You can bet that if your going to switch from Win brass to a better quality brass such as Hornady, Lapua, or Norma, the POI is going to change along with the pressure of the load.

I can tell you that I load only Lapua or Norma brass for my 6.5x55 Swede. I load these to about 1.5gr over the recommend max for one specific powder and that is what gives me excellent results. I've loaded this in Win brass and I will get at best 3 reloads before I get the magic ring of case head separation. When using Lapua or Norma brass, I will get 15 to 20 reloads each.

That tells you something.

Dave

[fgw_in_fla]

Smart Alec....

[stangfish]

What? I just sat down to have some popcorn and enjoy the discussion.

[scope eye]

What? I just sat down to have some popcorn and enjoy the discussion.

What ever happened to I am going to abstain from posting on these threads, that was short lived. LOL

Spanky

[stangfish]

I never said anything about popcorn.

[fgw_in_fla]

What ever happened to I am going to abstain from posting on these threads, that was short lived. LOL

Spanky

I didn't get the memo....
I was wondering why I didn't see any of the "regulars" posting on certain "cyclical" questions....

[thomae]

Hijack warning.

[thermaler]

The long range shooters always sort their brass by brand and if possible, by lot #'s. They do this for a reason.....consistency. You can bet that if your going to switch from Win brass to a better quality brass such as Hornady, Lapua, or Norma, the POI is going to change along with the pressure of the load.

I can tell you that I load only Lapua or Norma brass for my 6.5x55 Swede. I load these to about 1.5gr over the recommend max for one specific powder and that is what gives me excellent results. I've loaded this in Win brass and I will get at best 3 reloads before I get the magic ring of case head separation. When using Lapua or Norma brass, I will get 15 to 20 reloads each.

That tells you something.

Dave

I use them too--don't they have a touch of nickle in the necks to control flow better?

[davemuzz]

I use them too--don't they have a touch of nickle in the necks to control flow better?

I know nothing about the metal composition of Norma, Lapua, or Winchester brass. But I would think there has to be something in the higher quality brass that makes 'em more expensive (aside from just "more brass") and the fact that they simply last longer.

Perhaps.....if we wait long enough....a really smart reloader will respond....or a metallurgist kind of person.

[BillPa]

I know nothing about the metal composition of Norma, Lapua, or Winchester brass.

Me nedder. This here might help ....http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...rtridge-brass/

[thermaler]

Me nedder. This here might help ....http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...rtridge-brass/

Maybe it is zinc--all I know is there does seem to be a difference between lapua and the rest of them, I'm guessing they are using a slightly different metallurgical formula along with annealing to achieve better longevity/less flow.

[eddiesindian]

Maybe it is zinc--all I know is there does seem to be a difference between lapua and the rest of them, I'm guessing they are using a slightly different metallurgical formula along with annealing to achieve better longevity/less flow.

roger that.
I purchased LC brass some time back and the longivity of the brass is superb.
Dont have the deep pocket for norma/lapua brass though

[IUOE]

O

roger that
I purchased LC brass some time back and the longivity of the brass is superb.
Dont have the deep pocket for norma/lapua brass though

Ok, Feel little Silly Asking But What Is LC Brass?

[fgw_in_fla]

Lake City...
aka Mil Brass leftovers. I believe.

I never used it although there's been tons of it I've seen around the local range....

[eddiesindian]

yep-..Lake City
defently what the military uses.
and defently stiffer brass.

[davemuzz]

Dont have the deep pocket for norma/lapua brass though

Well, when you shoot the 6.5 Swede, or any caliber that is "tough" on brass, then you begin to do the math. When the junk brass like a Winchester ($.56 each) or Remington ($.54 each) only last 3 reloads (average of $.18 brass cost per shot), while Lapua ($.75 each) or Norma ($.82 each) will get you 20 reloads each (average of $.03925....yes rounded 4-cents cost per shot for brass), Then buying the quality brass such as Norma or Lapua is a no brainer.

Now, if you get the same amount of reloads PLUS the same teeny tiny groups from the Win, Rem AND the Lapua , Norma....then your crazy not to buy the less expensive brass. But that hasn't happen with my 6.5 Swede yet.

Dave

[thermaler]

Well, when you shoot the 6.5 Swede, or any caliber that is "tough" on brass, then you begin to do the math. When the junk brass like a Winchester ($.56 each) or Remington ($.54 each) only last 3 reloads (average of $.18 brass cost per shot), while Lapua ($.75 each) or Norma ($.82 each) will get you 20 reloads each (average of $.03925....yes rounded 4-cents cost per shot for brass), Then buying the quality brass such as Norma or Lapua is a no brainer.

Now, if you get the same amount of reloads PLUS the same teeny tiny groups from the Win, Rem AND the Lapua , Norma....then your crazy not to buy the less expensive brass. But that hasn't happen with my 6.5 Swede yet.

Dave

Exactly my thinking--to which I would add to the list: less time resizing/trimming down, less worry about primer and bullet seating consistency and fewer bullets used getting better groupings. Add all that up--and the Lapua/Norma starts looking like a bargain--if you can find it.

[Amistoso]

Same here, learning!

[Amistoso]

What? I just sat down to have some popcorn and enjoy the discussion.

Same here, learning!