1st time Savage builder vetting parts list

[SERE VG]

Hello,

I am piecing together parts to convert my pre-accutrigger Model 16 from a lightweight 7 WSM rifle to more of a precision/hunting .260 Rem build.

Recoil and cost and availability of components are the driving factors. I know a heavier 7 WSM would solve half of that equation, but the components are still tough to find and more $. I also don't "need" the horsepower of the 7 WSM. So on to the .260 Rem. I tinker/ modify / assemble on all of my firearms anyway, so this is par for the course.

I have 400yd paper and 1k yd steel ranges nearby the house. Target prey will be coyote, deer, wolves, black bear and possibly elk. Hoping it loves the Berger 140gr hybrid.

According to the AWESOME FAQs on this sight,I am the proud owner of a:

Short Action
"flat back"
Large shank
Stagger feed
Controlled feed
Left hand
Model 16
(Ok, I figured out the left hand, model 16 part myself)

Correct so far? Pics below:

I need the following items:

.308 bolt face and bolt components (my understanding my controlled feed bolt parts won't switch to the push feed)
Thinking the PT&G for the bolt face.

Barrel and large shank barrel nut. Thinking Shilen Match Select, Varmint contour from NSS.

Recoil lug and precision barrel nut also from NSS.

.308 Follower and magazine parts??

Tools: Barrel wrench, barrel vise, .308 go-gauge and standard hand tools.

Also thinking I want the following items:
EGW rail
A tactical stock?
Maybe a Karsten cheek rest

Will wear a gently used Bushnell DMR 3-21x or Sightron III when finished.

On the way:
Tactical works bolt handle

Missing anything? Correct parts for the build? Thoughts on sources, better parts etc. ? Dealers who offer Mil discounts are a plus!

I plan on leaving the trigger for now. It was worked over by a artist when I bought the rifle new. Breaks ultra clean at 3lbs. Won't be a limiting factor for quite a while. When and if it becomes a handicap I'll upgrade then.










Thanks

Vince

[J.Baker]

Getting OEM/factory parts of any kind has been a huge problem for everyone (vendors) for the past year or so due to Savage's growth and increased sales volume and the sheer insanity in the US arms market (hard to get parts cast when the casting companies are swamped with massive orders for AR receivers). This is also why SSS's Tactical bolt handles have been scarce in recent months.

As for OEM/factory parts vendors the usual suspects are your best bet: Brownells, Midway USA, Numricks, NSS and SSS. I wouldn't spend the extra $$ for the PT&G bolt head myself as I've yet to see one that's better than a factory bolt head. Only way I'd go that route is if I couldn't source a factory one from somewhere else.

You'll need the bolt head and the ejector parts, the extractor parts you can pull from your current bolt head to save a few bucks.

One area it seems you are a little confused is in regards to the barrel shank size. You state your action is a large shank, yet you specify a standard (small) barrel and barrel nut. If the action is a large shank then your new barrel and nut will also have to be large shank to match.

As for the rest, it looks like you've got it covered. Only oversight might be a competition recoil lug and possibly different length action screws for the new stock.

[SERE VG]

Thank you for the information.

I had to rethink my barrel selection, based on my mistake.

Talked to Jim at NSS, based on all of me reading here.

He recommended a Heavy Sporter profile vs a Varmint for my needs. Love the weight savings but I'm concerned with heat and having enough shoulder for a 5/8x24 suppressor.

Should be good on both, just is slightly slimmer profile than I was planning.

I know I'll be thanking him in my prayers after lugging it up the first mountain. Lol.

Also, is the Choate Tactical the only tactical style left hand option? Really like the B&C Medalist Tactical, but no lefty.

I'm thinking maybe something with a drop wrist, and adding a cheek rest?

REALLY, lust after the XLR chassis, but not in the budget for now.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[CharlieNC]

I love my Choate Tac stocks for the range but if you are concerned about barrel weight for hunting then you probably want to shy away from the Choate for the same reason. Check out the Boyds stock options and you can find good options for $100. I have a thumbhole hunter which is light and shoots well after bedding.

[SERE VG]

More reading = more questions.

Called Tactical Works to ask a question and totally scored! Picked up a LH tactical bolt, that was listed as out of stock! Lisa was extremely helpful.

I originally called to ask about LH stocks. I am in love with the B&C Medalist Tactical, but there's no lefty. Lisa mentioned a guy that converts them to LH. Seems easily doable.

Anyone done this?

Edit: Read the B&C site wrong. Regarding DBM, vs blind mag. The Savage version is Only available with blind mag. I looked at the pictures and saw what I wanted to see.



Thank you

Vince

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[bootsmcguire]

I didn't see it mentioned above, but I could have missed it too.

You will most likely need to change your magazine and follower to the 243/260/308 size.

Also if you're talking to Jim @ NSS for your barrel, pick up one of his recoil lugs and trued Barrel Nuts. You'll be happy you did.

[SERE VG]

Thanks Boots, I didn't know that. Roger on the lug and nut, will do.


Figured out the barrel. Doing the heavy sporter and will look for a 30 Cal can that has a 9/16 thread quick attach muzzle device. Was already considering the TBA 30 BA, which offers that option. Best booth worlds

Cheers
Vince

[big honkin jeep]

The left handed stock conversion is easy enough. I have done a couple. I start off by drilling small holes in the sides of the right hand bolt cutout. I do this so the epoxy I use can get a good mechanical lock into place, Then put blue painters tape inside the stock to cover the inside of the bolt cutout. after that put blue painters tape down the outside of the stock to cover the outside of the bolt cutout leaving the top open and leaving an inch or so sticking up so after filling with epoxy I can fold it over the top. I mix up a batch of JB weld and put it into the taped up bolt cutout. Then fold the tape over using the tape to hold the epoxy to the contour of the stock. The next day pull the tape and touch it up with a file and some sandpaper till its perfect.
Then take a dremel or file and cut out the new bolt cutout on the left side. Check the fit of the action and if necessary use the dremel or file to relieve a little bit of the area inside the stock near the cutout you filled in so that the bolt stop/sear combo operates freely.
It sounds a lot more complicated than it is. Basically just fill in the old cutout and make a new one.
Piece of cake

Here's one I converted for a handy little carbine build with a detachable box mag.

[SERE VG]

Awesome work BHJ. Is that a sponge paint job? Looks great.

Great idea on drilling holes to get the mechanical adhesion.

I'm going to have to pull the trigger on this one! (bad pun intended). I've taken a dremel to way more expensive things.

This thing may come together sooner than I thought, thanks to this forum.

Cheers

Vince

[big honkin jeep]

Yep sponge camo. Khaki and OD Topped with a coat of Testors dull coat.
I do the mechanical lock holes with a small drill bit when bedding also.

[SERE VG]

Going to change my mind back to the varmint contour. Did a bunch of reading and then measured the diameters of all of my barrels.

Ideally there would be a Shilen/ Savage contour between the heavy sporter and varmint with a end diameter of .725-.750.

The heavy sporter is probably perfect for hunting. The .685 end diameter leaves enough for a 9/16-24 thread, so you can still attach most common brakes or suppressor quick attach devices, although they will have a dramatic step up in diameter on most of them.

The varmint is probably perfect for the bench, to include prairie dogs. It allows a standard 5/8's thread so any muzzle device/ can will work. I also think in my novice opinion you'll see less POI shift with a can hanging of the end, due to the stiffer barrel.

I'm going to suck up the extra lb in weight to get a little more shootability at the range, both in reduced recoil and a few more rounds down range before I have to let it cool.

This my first LRP build so I am obsessing over all of the details, even more so than usual.

[bootsmcguire]

I personally use the Varmint contour on most of my barrels. My go-to deer rifle for the past several years has been a Savage 12FV in 308 with the 26" Varmint barrel and its taken its fair share of deer from 75yds out to past 500. Yeah its a bit heavy if you are a stalking type of guy, but once shes on the bipod and I am set up I am ready to harvest some venison and its fun on the bench too.

[SERE VG]

Thanks,

Barrel OTW from Shilen via NSS.

Shilen Select Match
. 260 Remington
26"
Varmint contour
large shank
Threaded 5/8x24

Hope it's a shooter.

Going to replenish the toy fund and then order the rest of the parts from Jim.

Precision barrel nut, recoil lug and action wrench / barrel nut wrench.

Looks like this will have to wear a recycled Leopold VXIII 2.5x10 for this hunting season until I can drop the big $. Seems a waste of potential. Lol


Sent from my mind via apathy.

[SERE VG]

Update: Barrel came in. Ordering rest of parts. Will have to wait on conversion until after Elk season.

[SERE VG]

Have been unable to find the bolt parts in stock anywhere. Tried Savage directly, what a PITA. Seriously intentionally designed to prevent sales.

Anyone have a source? Need LH 308 bolt parts. Converting from 7WSM.

I jotted this list on a sticky, lol. Could someone verify it's all inclusive /correct?

Bolt head
Baffle
Firing pin
Extractor
FP detent
Push rod spring
Magazine follower

Thanks

Vince

[Hotolds442]

Brownells has the 223 LH bolt face in stock. You could always snag one and have a good gunsmith open it up.

[SERE VG]

Brownells has the 223 LH bolt face in stock. You could always snag one and have a good gunsmith open it up.

Thanks, probably cost prohibitive.

PT&G would be cheaper, may end up going that route if I can't find a factory one. They don't appear to have live inventory tracking, but they quote 4-6 weeks delivery.

[SERE VG]

Update;

Need some recommendations on where to send this to have the barrel swapped? Looks like $ wise I can have a couple guns done professionally vs the cost of tools. Little leery of SSS based on multiple reviews on here and elsewhere. looks like the majority are in regards to turn around times and communication, and not quality of work, but still I'd prefer to be wondering when I'm getting this back.

Thank you

Bolt head finally came in stock! All I still need are the bolt head parts,firing pin, rings/rail, brake and a AI mag to be complete! Stoked to be so close, but still probably $400 in parts to order. Not to mention the $ for the smith to do the swap. I initially planned this as a budget build, but that went out the door quick! lol ( oh, and the Cerakote $ too, dang!)

So far I have:
Shilen Select Match 26" Varmint contour, threaded
B&C Medalist, Karsten cheek piece, CDI DBM
SWFA Super Sniper 3-15 FFP Mil/ Mil
Tactical Works bolt handle
Bolt head parts
firing pin
Badger Mini FTE brake
EGW 20 MOA base
AI mag

3lbs of H4350
50 pieces of 243 brass
1 box 140gr Accubonds

On the way:
308 lefty bolt head

Still to order:

Rings (undecided)

[thomae]

Need some recommendations on where to send this to have the barrel swapped? Looks like $ wise I can have a couple guns done professionally vs the cost of tools.

Your Local Gun Shop should be able to do it easily.

[243LPR]

Where are you? Maybe somebody on here could help you out.

[SERE VG]

Spokane, WA

Spoke to the closest smith yesterday. Weird conversation, kept ranting how Savage barrel swaps were "nightmares" and machine work alone could run $300+ with a pre-fit barrel. There is another guy somewhat local, but he doesn't do customer service. So no phone calls. I'll have to bring it out to him to get a $ and his hourly rate is $120. $60 for work estimates, lol. I'll still talk to him and see what he says. He's 45 min away and only open Mon-Fri 9-5, so I'll have to take off work and bring the parts, just to ask him if he'll do it and $. Annoying, but supposedly he does good work. There are a couple other good options, but further away.

I have a local firearms board. I'll ask there as well. I had a guy on base lined up to help out, but he deployed before I had all the parts in.

Worst case, I'll just pull the trigger on the tools and DIY. This place has me eyeing another build already anyway, lol!

Thanks

Vince

[SlimySquirrel]

Have a look at the YouTube vids of barrel swaps.

Looks pretty simple and if you have all the right gear you will be fine if you take care.

Sounds like the investment would be worth it as I doubt this will be your last build!!

Also, in the future consider the stockade stocks in the "money saver" config. They take a while but I've only read good things about them... They have an integral block in them so it makes them the attractive option when compared to a choate for hunting.

[CharlieNC]

You really don't need any special tools. Cut the old barrel nut with a Dremmel, nearly all the way through but being careful not to damage the old barrel threads; then you can finish taking it off with pliers. As for securing the new barrel nut, headspace and tighten it by hand; then place a large flat-blade screwdriver in the barrel nut notch and give it a couple of firm whacks with a wood mallet. Learned this from a long-term Savage guy and it works well.

[SlimySquirrel]

Uh oh.... Impending warning from Moderator.....

I would go the Barrel Nut Wrench also and as said do it yourself. Sounds like you don't mind a tinker anyhow!!

[243LPR]

Might as well buy the tools and do it yourself. It's cheaper in the long run and once you do one you'll want to do others. Plus you'll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. It's a good thing to have an intimate knowledge of your gun and how everything goes together and interacts.