Reply With QuoteSubscribed....I think I'm going to get one of the Choate stocks for my flcp-k.
Has anyone done an accuracy comparison on a Choate to determine the effect of bedding? I have a couple and the witness marks on the V-block look like these make very consistent contact, and they shoot well. The main area I question is how well the recoil lug fits against the V-block; may need to run an evaluation to find out but interested if others have experience first.
Subscribed....I think I'm going to get one of the Choate stocks for my flcp-k.
I have bedded a Choate Varmint but I did it before I shot it. My concern was with the recoil lug area also. I can't tell you that it was any more accurate than before but I can say that the recoil lug was making good contact with the front block, the bedding just showed a build up on the bottom of the lug, not on the face of the block. Does that make sense? In other words, I am not sure that it did anything.
I have not bedded either of my Choates but I do not think that I could tell any difference since the rifles shoot so well as-is.
Makes perfect sense; your description is exactly what I would expect with a good fit. Kelbro, my experience is like yours and I'm looking for someone to tell me something different to push me into doing something (bedding). The main aspect that needs attention is getting a more precise cheek weld than the Choate pieces; I'm mainly shooting prone. Think I will try a Karsten.Originally Posted by cheapshot
This was my main problem when I inletted the choate varmint to fit my Axis. I wound up making the stock cheek piece adjustable to get the proper cheek weld. I thought about using a Karsten that I had but it just didn't look right on the Varmint stock. I think it does look good on the Tactical though.
It cost me about $5 in parts and a little elbow grease. Looks really good also. Here is my scope/rail/ring setup.
EGW Rail 0MOA
Burris XTR low rings
Sightron SII 4x16xx42
My cheek weld was about 1/2" to low. I used the factory front and rear holes for the cheek rest and drilled them out to accept 3/8" threaded inserts. Then drilled and counter sunk the cheek rest to match and used 3/8x2 1/2" socket head bolts. I placed 1/2" spacers between the stock and cheek piece, and tightened her down. You cant see the spacers unless you look from directly behind, but even then it looks finished. I also have a stack of washers if I need to fine tune the height. I am traveling today so I cant get you a pic but will be home tomorrow night if you need a visual.
Last edited by cheapshot; 06-10-2013 at 11:33 AM.
Yes, post pics when you can. Sounds like the Choate cheek rest is thick/solid enough to sink the mounting bolts?
Plenty strong enough. It's rock solid.
I also bedded my choate varmint but did not see an improvement but I only shoot to 200 yds. IT sure did not get worst...
FWIW, I just finished a .280 build using a Choate tactical. I bedded it as part of the build as I do this with all of my Remmy's. I shot 30 rounds yesterday, 26 of the in a ragged hole 3/4", the 3 o/s were me. I'm not so sure the bedding had much to do with it. I am starting a .260 now with a Choate Tactical and will shoot it before I consider bedding just to see if it has any effect.
But, I may stretch the distant to 75 yds to see if the group opens up :).
Last edited by EOD350; 06-15-2013 at 04:30 PM.
I would think one could get by just bedding the lug on any v-block stock
Me too, as long as you can see the receiver and v-block are making proper contact (ie no problem with tolerances).
Charlie I did a bedding on one of them for the lug area and the fit was so tight that I could see through the Devcon when done. It was impressive for a factory gun.
More shooting, less typing.
Beginning to get a consistent picture that the fit/tolerance is so tight that there is nothing left to work with. Unless one wanted yo grind away the recoil block to make room to bed the lug, in search of the perfect fit. I'm not motivated; bigger issues to address.
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