I have been casting for a few years now. I cast everything I shoot now except 223 and I have pretty much quit shooting 223.
I currently cast for 9mm, 45ACP, 12 gauge and 300 Blackout. I use wheel weights only and that seems to be perfect for what I do. I make sure to remove the zinc wheel weights from the mix so it doesn't ruin my molds.
I have a Savage model 10 in 45 ACP I built for my wife. I have a Striker that shoots 300 Blackout. And one more Savage rifle in 223. I am waiting on my Form 1 to come back from the ATF then I will build a suppressor for my Striker. Hoping for similar results as my 22lr can I built.
I have always used Lee Alox for lube and it works well but you are still limited as far as FPS. Another problem, at least for me, is you are still getting exposed to the lead fumes when firing. I take precautions when casting but don't want to look like some crazy wearing the same gear when shooting.
I recently started tumble lubing my bullets with powder coating then baking them. It works better than anything out there. I even think it is cleaner than jacketed bullets. I am not getting type of fouling, unlike jacketed. I have personally pushed them to just over 2,000 fps and know people who are pushing bullets that have been powder coated to close to 3,000 fps.
It costs $6 for the Harbor Freight powder, $5 for the acetone and $30 for a toaster oven.
After two coats the bullets are .003" thicker and encapusulated. I am going to start using 3 thinner coats to give a better appearance. I have also ordered a bunch of other colors so I can color code my loads according to what they are. My supersonic loads for the 300 are going to be red, the subsonics are blue. My wife likes shooting so I am going to make some lightweight loads for her and they are going to be, you guessed it, pink.
I added enough acetone to barely cover the bottom of a gallon bucket. Then I dumped 5 Lee dippers that were .7cc full of powder coating powder. I swirled it up good until the powder coat disolved into what looks like the consistency of Testor's paint. Then I added about 50 bullets. I swirled them around until the acetone was almost evaporated then I dumped the bullets out onto a piece of hardware cloth with 1/4" opening. I dump them while the bullets are still shiny from being wet. Then I alllowed them to finish drying. Then I put them into a toaster oven at 400 degree for a little over 10 minutes. Then I open the door and alow them to cool. It bakes the coating on and it is tough stuff.
Initiallly I was worried about being able to size them down but the size just like a regular bullet. I also did a smash test and the stuff remains adhered to the bullet. They don't look as shiny as the others pictured here but I think for the $11 I spent on materials I will take a dull colored bullet.
I had done plenty of shooting with the same bullets, both before and after coating in my Savage. The are the NOE 200 grain "pointy" bullets. And after the coating the groups tightened up a bit. I coat the bullets with two baked on layers and they seem to add about .003" to the bullet. I do not size them and just seat them straight into the belled case. I haven't checked to see if they are getting squeezed down any but honestly I don't care because they shoot so well.
And before anyone thinks this is something new, it isn't. Coating bullets has been done overseas for a very long time. People here in the US have embraced it with stunning results. Here in the US there is a debate on which is better, epoxy two part paint with HBn or powder coating. I have not used the paint but I can't imagine it being any better than powder coating. Then there is a debate on tumbling the powder coat or spraying on the powder coat. Spraying on looks better but I don't think it performs better.
They look a little rough but it doesn't seen to affect the accuracy at all.
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