What is the best way to clean the inside of the bolt?

[rmdailey]

I promise I did a search, and I'm sure this has been answered many times.

I have about 120 rounds through my Savage 111 in 30-06. I have never disassembled and cleaned the inside of the bolt. I've watched a youtube video on this and it seems about as simple as detail stripping my 1911 pistol (so no fear) My question is what's the best way to clean it. I normally completely degrease with "gun scrubber" and my wife's toothbrush So what is the best way to relube the bolt assembly? I've got grease, Mobil 1 5w-20, medium weight gun oil, light gun oil, spray gun oil. Each of these has their purpose/application. What is best for inside the bolt/what do you do?

I'm looking at Aluma-hyding my action and bolt knobs so I'll be taking it apart anyway (I've used aluma-hyde with excellent results in the past so I am not looking for advice there).

Thank you, and peace be with you,
Robert

[pisgah]

My opinion -- a light synthetic gun oil, and not much of it. Grease and excessive oil gather dust and eventually get gunky.

[stangfish]

As for lube I really like Lucas motor oil additive.
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=7&loc=show
Inside and out.

[bootsmcguire]

I am with Stangfish on Lucas products. I use the engine oil stuff in every oil change.

For my guns I use the lucas Gun Oil
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...iid=12&catid=6

So far I am happy with it for internal lubrication applications. Seems to stay put and not attract much dust or grit.

I have been using "Rusty Duck" on the outside of my guns for wiping down and have no complaints there. Wally world decided to quit carrying it and I bought up several spray paint sized cans for $1 ea. Not sure what I'll use when I run out, haven't seen any on the shelf locally.

[earl39]

Boots you can get the duck at amazon

[bootsmcguire]

Thanks Earl, hadn't really looked on-line yet. I'll check it out when the time comes. Still got a can and 1/2 in reserve.

[fgw_in_fla]

I've been using hi temp grease. The tannish, yellowish stuff with the consistency of pudding. A small amount where ever it's needed to reduce friction. I'm not concerned with dust or dirt collecting since I break them down, clean & reassemble about once every 5 or 6 weeks.
Cleaning the old stuff off I use whatever I have on hand at the time. The last time it was Gumout carb cleaner. As long as it doesn't damage the finish on any metals.

[stangfish]

I am with Stangfish on Lucas products. I use the engine oil stuff in every oil change.

For my guns I use the lucas Gun Oil
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...iid=12&catid=6

Doh! I didn't know they even had that product. Guess I will be gittin me some.

[eddiesindian]

ive found dry lube with teflon to work best. i use it on all my gas guns trigger mech,s and all my bolts. (imo...any kind of "wet lube' will infact attract anything from dirt/dust/debree/powder fouling/brass/ which will end up as an abrasive. ill clean it with any well known gun cleaner, blopw it out with compress,s air, then clean it dry with birchwood cassey cleaner then lube it with remington dry lube. i havent been able to find any remy dry lube anymore but there,s other lubricants outt here that manuf. dry lube

[BillPa]

After disassembling the bolt including removing the bolthead I use a nylon bottle brush with whatever solvent is within reach, even WD or clear kerosene! What you use doesn't matter as long as it gets the crud out. After brushing and flushing I'll give it a blast of air then wrap a piece of a paper towel around the brush and push it through to remove any remaining solvent. I'll repeat the brush-towel until it passes the "white glove test".

After I pleased with my janitorial work I wrap a clean piece of paper towel around the bush, put a few drops of Break-Free on it then push it back and forth to coat the inside of the body.

Next I'll run a pipe cleaner with solvent in the bolt head shaft and out the firing pin hole. After a few passes I'll put a few drops of Break-Free on a clean pipe cleaner and run it through a few times. I may disassemble the firing pin, but most times I'll just brush it with solvent, give to a blast of air then apply the B-F.

Lastly, I'll wipe down the bolt head shaft, lugs and baffle with B-F. Maybe every other cleaning I'll pull the extractor and ejector, clean them, the springs and their bores.

After reassembly I'll apply a bolt or lithium grease SPARINGLY on the lugs, cocking ramp and primary extraction cam . Of course the bolt doesn't go in the action until I clean the locking lug recesses and abutments.

It may sound like a lot of work and time, but start to finish only takes about 10-15 minutes.

Bill

[dcloco]

Want to use a 100% synthetic grease (STOS by Ponsness Warren comes to mind) or 100% sythetic light oil. Brush on. Whatever surface(s) being lubed, will only hold what attaches to the surface(s). So, if you see extra in there, you are putting on too much.

Check the labels on the synthetic grease/oil for operating temperatures they are rated at.

Also, as a side note, if you feel the need to put additives in your engine oil, then the engine oil of choice is not doing it's job - change brands.....there is a difference.

[dcloco]

....and LOVE BillPA's post - everything should be clean!!!