Need gorilla or sledge hammer for barrel nut

[brasse]

I have my Shilen select match 26" Creedmoor bull barrel staring at me.

But I haven't been able to break the smooth non slotted barrel nut that came on the rifle.

I have tried heating up the nut, letting it cool somewhat and spraying with liquid wrench and other oils.

Then put on the barrel wrench and trying to loosen the nut. Just not sure if the barrel wrench is helping or making it worse. The wrench fits around the smooth nut with a brass band, the bolt on the wrench is then tightened so the wrench won't slip.

But so far it either slips or nothing moves. I guess I am up to about 75-80 ft pounds of torque. Half way tempted to put a pipe wrench on the nut and say the hell with it. I won't be reusing it right away as I have one of Jim Briggs "special" slotted nuts and his plate.

Going to try one more time once I get home, now in the fine state of Texas where men and girls learn to shoot soon after walking. And can you say BIG deer. My buddy Josh just had mounted a 13 point 150-160 pound deer.

[JW]

Try using a hammer on the wrench
the sudden impact instead of constant torque seems to work well
Jack

[Balljoint]

If you have one try a Dremal Tool

[sinman]

How is a 150-160lb deer big? I've shot does bigger than that haha

[Westcliffe01]

Agree with this. Load up the wrench with 1 hand as much as you can, then whack it just below where you are holding it with a steel hammer. You want to get a shock load into it. Kroil is pretty good.

Try using a hammer on the wrench
the sudden impact instead of constant torque seems to work well
Jack

[brasse]

Actually I should have said I always use the hammer to break the friction trick. But it isn't working.

Not sure if I want to use a Dremel, the factory barrel is supposedly worth $100 or more (22" Creedmoor sporter)
And I have visions of it being one of my hunting rifles.

150-160lb deer was dressed out, not sure how much was left in the field. But sure was pretty. I hear you have to put a bag over the heads of SD deer, so ugly.

Just kidding, love SD. And that would be one big momma deer. They say 60-70% of the size of the rack comes from the momma and not that deranged in love buck.

[brasse]

Need to get some Kroil, everyone seems to stand by it.

Tried the hitting of the wrench trick too, but I think I will whack it more this time. I may use a large punch and whack the nut a couple of times, then heat it up, then try the wrench.

It's coming off this weekend for sure. Already have my varmit thumbhole sanded out for the 1 inch bull barrel.

[fgw_in_fla]

Last one I did I used a 16" pipe wrench. I didn't plan on reusing the barrel nut.

I put my "boyish" 190lbs on the wrench & smacked it with a 2lb hammer. Came right off after that.

[JCalhoun]

I ran into that before.

Make sure all the screws are removed. Wrap the receiver ring with some sheet rubber and tighten in a bench top vise that has pipe jaws. Get a pipe wrench on the barrel nut and pull with as much leverage as possible. The barrel and nut may come off together.

The culprit is likely the polishing/bluing gunk that collects in the threads.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Remember, it's the SHOCK from steel hitting steel (hammer against wrench) that usually brakes the nut loose. Doesn't need to be "that tight" going back on. And use lots of lube.

[pk01]

The stubborn ones I had I used the handle off my high lift jack as a cheater bar on the barrel nut wrench with action stabilized in a wheeler action wrench. Had to stand on the handle but they always broke loose. I found it amazing how tight they seem to get after a barrel swap and a little shooting even without doing any more than snugging them up plus a little bump upon install

[brasse]

Once the smooth nut is removed, I have the best stainless anti-sieze made for stainless.

The lube/antisieze is SILVER and costs $280 for 2 ounces. But a tiny dot plus extra oil will protect the new barrel and nut.

Dam the biggest pipe wrench I have is 12 inches.

JCalhoun, do you mean also taking the trigger assembly off the receiver tube???

[limige]

Where did you get silver goop at? Weve found nickel works best at high temps on SS but our rifles dont really get that hot. I think youll like that rifle once shes done. Id pipe wrench it in a heartbeat

[limige]

I machined a piece of bar stock to fit the bolt channel. Something like .44x.90 or whatever it is. Then put that in the vice to hold the action. Ditto on a second msn with a hammer to shock the threads

[brasse]

Silver is used by a company called Swagelock that makes high press fittings for stainless tubings.
I have used the same tube for 15 years.

The rifle was begging for a match grade Varmit or Bull Barrel. Jim was out of the Varmits, it took me less than 2 seconds to "settle" for the Shilen 26" Select Match Bull barrel

[brasse]

Hey I think we all want photos of that bar stock arrangement

[limige]

Thats what i said silver goop made by swadgelock

Sweet rifle btw. Cant wait to see groups

[limige]

Hey I think we all want photos of that bar stock arrangement

Im out of work in an hour and could do that. Based off the action wrench sold just capitolizes on the lug patterns ability to hold a rectangle piece of steel.

You just need a foot of 1/2x1" steel or SS and anyone with a bridgeport could do it in 10 minutes

[limige]

Simply clamp the bar in a vise using the bottom 2 1/2" and slide the action over the rest. Then put the wrench on the barrel nut and use a hammer to break it loose.

Now these dimensions worked on my reciever. I dont know what the tolerances are on them so yours may vary.

[limige]

Any luck?
I could make a bar and ship if needed.

[JCalhoun]

Brasse;

I normally use a Wheeler action wrench to change barrels and do not remove triggers then. But when I do need to put the receiver in a pipe jaw vise I will remove the trigger assembly just in case.

[kingzero]

Mine was a bear to get off as well. I got a flat back 110 in 7mm off Gunbroker for 200 bucks. The barrel wasn't worth trying to sell so I just clamped it in the pipe side of my bench vise. I couldn't break the nut loose with a 16" pipe wrench and started turning the barrel in the vise when I added a cheater.

I ended up taping up the action and used a grinder with a cutoff wheel and cut between the lug and nut. I only cut about half way through all the way around and then it twisted right off.

Waiting on a barrel, nut and lug from Northland now.

[devildogandboy]

just did a new model 11 in stainless, it came with the smooth barrel nut and I put the receiver in my action wrench, clamped it in the vise, and put the pipe wrench to it. also gave it a couple good whacks with dead blow hammer and got it started. it was still hard to remove the barrel, like they used some type of locktite or something on it. when I got it all apart I cleaned the threads up really well and now i'm waiting for my new barrel that's going on it(6.5cm).

[Nor Cal Mikie]

I've got a Wheeler Action wrench that I used "one" time. And the last time! Had it tight enough that the action wouldn't turn and the barrel squeaked as it came out. Loosened the action wrench and the barrel spun right out.
From then on, I make sure the nut is snug when I go back on and none have moved. The first time is usually the toughest. After that, they come off real easy.
Witness marks on the action and barrel just ahead of the nut. Masking tape marked so I can see if the barrel ever moves. No movement so far and the last one makes about 10 barrel swaps so far. The action I had the problem with happened to Stainless. I also make sure I use "lots" of lube on the barrel threads.

[BillPa]

I've got a Wheeler Action wrench that I used "one" time. And the last time! Had it tight enough that the action wouldn't turn and the barrel squeaked as it came out. Loosened the action wrench and the barrel spun right out.

Those wrenches are only for loosening or finial tightening a barrel, Savage, Remington or any other "Off Brand". Yes, they tend distort the action, but the threaded barrel tenon limits the amount of distortion and the action "springs" back to it's original shape/dimension after the wrench is removed.

When loosening a barrel once the action turns a 1/4-1/2 turn the wrench is removed and the action-barrel separated either by hand or with the help of another tool, a rear entry wrench for example.


Bill