Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?

[aztec223]

yep,you got it
drybean

Thanks for the reply, Santa Maria she's berry tite Senor!

[aztec223]

Thanks for the help, by golly I got it and she is ready to rock and roll! Man I can't wait!

[Rifleman51]

If you build enough of them and use the lightly torqued method, you will get some calls of barrels that have come loose, especially if using a quality recoil lug that does not gaul like the stock one's do. 40 ft lbs minimum. You also want the barrel and action tight to act as one unit, there is more flex at the barrel/action joint then you might think when you fire the rifle.
Barrel threads are a whole other story as most hold the majority of the torque on the first threads with the rear threads along for the ride.
Don't go crazy, but don't leave en too loose. A hard hit with the hammer on the wrench should do, two hits are better.
Read the book "Rifle Accuracy Facts". The amount of flex at the barrel action joint is considerable and kills accuracy. You don't want to go overboard, but do tighten the nut fairly tight.

John K

[Hammer]

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As to barrels coming loose...

Those of you who like variable power scopes should like variable headspace.

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[Sundo]

The E.R. Shaw barrel kit instructions suggest 90-100 ft-lbs of torque. Brownell's video series on AR-15 assembly suggest 30 ft-lbs in AR-15s for best accuracy.

[hotbrass]

Not sure how the barrel nut tightness would affect accuracy as long as there is no metal displacment and the headspace is correct.

I tighten the Savage nut to 60 ft/lbs and the AR until I can get the gas tube through, but never very tight, and if necessary I will back it off if I cant muscle it around with a DPMS AR multi-tool. My guns are as accurate as the any.

[fdennis]

About the reply above that mentioned that the recoil lug is less than flat: Is that something that should be fixed by bedding in a new, precisely ground recoil lug, or is that a waste of time?