After reading a bunch about the Accuwedge and that it has been discontinued, I have decided to bed my Model 10 Precision Carbine to avoid any accuracy issues in the future. So now I had a few questions regarding the bedding...
1. Should I just bed the recoil lug area only and not further down the action? I thought this may be better than since the main issue was the Accuwedge and the action would still interface with the aluminum on the action.
2. Masking tape on recoil lug? Is this necessary if you use a release agent? I will be using the Brownell's release agent liquid. If the tape is necessary, would electrical tape be better than masking tape?
3. Should the face of the Accuwedge that contacts the recoil lug be ground down to have .030" clearance so it does not make contact with the recoil lug and leave it in place and cast the Devcon around it?
Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
Bed from the front of the recoil lug all the way back to the rear action screw. Take the accuwedge completely out. Ditch it. Mask the front and sides of the recoil lug, not the back. Use making tape.
It should look like this:
And the results should look like this
Is it worth bedding the gen 2 accustock without the wedge?
I have one in a model 16, .260 Rem.
I'll just say it can't hurt so long as you know how to bed.
Last edited by bodywerks; 04-13-2013 at 01:18 PM.
To each their own. I have 2 accustocked rifles that are untouched and shoot under 1/2" MOA. One is a 116 30-06 the other is a 16 358win. It's all about proper handloading and finding what your gun likes. Not saying you can't bed an accustock, but I wouldn't unless you've hit the wall with your hand load trials with different bullets, powders and seating depth.
I am willing to agree that bedding an accustock will be beneficial. Since my one has the wedge, I would be inclined to keep it. Its purpose was to preload the recoil lug and I think it does that well. That is a feature I would rather keep, bedded or not. Bedding would improve the damping between action and stock since the size of the contact patch would increase by a few orders of magnitude. Can't be any harm in that.
Problem with the accuwedge is exactly that it preloads the recoil lug, which in turn preloads the entire action, and that load changes with temperature, which results in erratic shooting. The purpose of bedding is to remove any and all adverse loads while also ensuring it stays put when fired.
They removed the accuwedge because it was a poor execution of a good concept. But keep it in if you want.
I look at it the same way my flcpK is under 1/2" moa also. If I hit an accuracy wall I'll bed it. But for now I'm just going to shoot it!Originally Posted by barthowes
Since you say "Any comments would be appreciated," I have to say that I'd leave it alone unless you actually experience a problem. It sounds like the rifle is doing just fine but you're just getting worried about something that might or might not happen to it in the future. While I'm a proponent of being prepared for all contingencies, I'm an even bigger proponent of not messing with something that's already working just fine.
FWIW, I have a 10 PC in 308 with the Gen 1 Accu-Stock with the Accu-Wedge. Most of my other rifles have a purpose specific to that rifle and are only used for that one type of shooting, whether it be targets, hunting, or whatever. I bought the 10 PC in 308 since it seemed to be just about perfect as a do-it-all rifle for hunting, tactical, and plinking at faraway things. The stock has been removed three times. The first time was before I ever shot it, which is just part of my new rifle inspection process. Since then the stock has been removed two more times. I haven't experienced any accuracy issues nor any zero shift after re-installing the stock. I don't do anything fancy when re-installing the stock, I just follow Savage's instructions.
[b]A witty saying proves nothing - Voltaire (1694-1778)[/b]
I wasn't real hot for the hydrographics on the Precision Carbine stock so I went and redid it while I had it out of the stock. It wasn't holding up well to scuffs. Used Bulldog decals and DuraCoat ACU colors. Took 3 days to do. The only thing I didn't care for was it yellowed slightly because I used clear Alumahyde II for the top coat. Aside from that I thought it looks much better than the factory hydrographics.
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