Reply With QuoteI have the same barrel and it does very good for me. You should be set.
Finally got all the parts together. I have fired it with a combination of different parts but this is the first time I've had everything together. I hope this shoots better than a factory savage. Here are the parts:
Stevens 200 action (short action, staggered feed)
B&C Medalist stock
SharpShooter Supply Competition trigger
Vortex Viper 6.5-20x44
Vortex tactical rings (high)
EGW 0 MOA base
Holland Savage/Remington recoil lug
ER Shaw Varmint contour 26" barrel chambered in 260 Remington
I plan to document the whole build and results on my youtube page. Part 1 can be found here:
Wish me luck!
I have the same barrel and it does very good for me. You should be set.
Good Luck with the build. Looks like you have all the right parts for a great rifle. Keep us posted.
Just curious to know how much clearance you have under the scope bell with the EGW base , high rings and Varmint barrel ??
Last edited by palerider338; 04-07-2013 at 06:16 AM.
I had the same barrel built for me & I couldn't be more pleased with it. The barrel & rifle shoot better than I can ! I want to see what kind of performance a "good shooter" can get out of it ! ER Shaw is a great value in my book. Please keep us posted :) ! ..... Jim
I used the Holland lug as well...nice piece of machining- but I wish they made a separate lug for Savages with a notch-shaped protrusion to fit the action instead of the pin. I ended up using a pin-punch to keep it centered when torquing the barrel down, hopefully someone has a better idea.
I've barely got my Shaw 7-08 broken in (haven't had an opportunity to shoot in a couple of months now due to lack of components), but it was shooting sub-minute... and hitting steel at 1000 with respectable consistency (but that's more me, than the barrel).
That Vortex scope is probably the best value available in that price range. If I were doing a build- wouldn't change a thing. Nice selection of components!
Yep.. same problem here. I got the barrel installed tonight. The lug is not perfectly centered but its not far off. How big of a deal do you think it is? I'm debating on if I should take the barrel off and try again or just leave it.Originally Posted by tobnpr
I ended up taking the barrel off and using a punch to get that recoil lug on straight.
Part 2 is now up:
Great videos. Liked/ Subscribed.
Thanks :)
Good luck with the Shaw barrel. My 260 had a bad reamer run and bulged my brass at the shoulder in one place. Ended up having a gouge from the reamer. Apparently they had a bbunch get out all jacked up!
Why high rings and why 0 MOA base? Unless you're going with a large diameter barrel there's no need for high rings. And it'll look dumb.
Ideal setup puts the objective about 1/4"above the barrel and that's with a 50mm objective.
0 MOA base may very well limit your ability to get out to distance. If only 600 yards or so you'll be fine
[QUOTE=tobnpr;177272but I wish they made a separate lug for Savages with a notch-shaped protrusion to fit the action instead of the pin. I ended up using a pin-punch to keep it centered when torquing the barrel down, hopefully someone has a better idea.
[/QUOTE]
This is what I use to locate and install a second pin in the top of the lug / ring. I drill the lug through and "dimple" the ring 3/32" deep with a #93 bit then press in a piece of a 1/16"drill bit then make over sized lower pin for a slight press fit in the action mortice.
The two pins eliminate any up-down and side to side slop between the barrel and lug bore.
Its my Savageized version of a pinned lug for a switch barrel Rem.
Bill
I went with high rings for a couple of reasons. Cameraland had the med rings on back order when I ordered the scope. Additionally, the comb on the b&c medalist is pretty high. previously I had a 50mm scope on there with high rings and I found myself at time wishing the scope were a little higher.
As for the 0 moa base, I've had that base for a long time. If I were making the purchase today I would go with a 20 moa base. The Viper has ~65 moa of internal adjustment. Based on JBM trajectory calculator my 260 will need ~34 MOA to reach 1000 yards. So it looks like I'll come up just a hair short.. but 900 yards needs 27 MOA which I expect to reach with the 0 MOA base. It's really just a matter of when, not if on the 20 MOA base.
Looks like it'll be a solid rifle. You've obviously put much time, thought, and money into this build. I say go ahead and spend another $120'ish and get a 20 MOA rail base. You'll be glad you did. IMO, no need to get proficient with the rifle under one set up, and then have to learn again once you alter the set up when adding the 20 MOA base in the future. I also prefer to have the scope as close to the barrel as possible, and I think you can get away with low rings if you have the 20 MOA base, even with the 50mm bell (you'll want to double check my math). Btw, I'm a HUGE fan of Vortex glass. I have the Vortex Razor HD 5-20 EBR2 Reticle Mil/Mil with a 20 MOA rail from Nightforce and Low rings from Nightforce.
Excellent build and choice of caliber.
Part 3 is up, got the SSS trigger installed:
Part 4 is up:
Not too bad. What resin was that that you used? I used Devon plastic steel putty on my savage hs just the other day and was quite happy with the results. Mine has the aluminum block also, but i bedded the entire channel(minus the tang) as well as the front of the recoil lug.
Last edited by bodywerks; 05-21-2013 at 09:55 AM.
I used a kit called Pro-Bed 2000. Picked it up from Midway.
I'm not positive, but I think Midway has a recoil lug alignment tool for Savages. I bought 1 for a Rem. 700 that will also work on my Marlin.
shoot that thing, haha
Good idea :)
Here is part 5.. first time out with this setup and some initial results. Best group came in at .583.
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