Anyone have any experience with this brake on a long range hunter? How bad is it to blow dirt shooting prone? Can it be removed for an aftermarket replacement?
I don't own a gun with a brake but have shot other freind's guns that had them and each one had the ports just coming out the left and right side of barrel, not holes all the way around.
That brake will make a dust storm so I would put a drop cloth under the area you are shooting from when on the ground. As far as putting a different brake on with the existing threads will depend on what threads that savage used.If it is standard then get a hollands side discharge brake or something similar.I have a brake that clears shooting benches off.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
What Jon said...
OR-
http://muzzlebrakesandmore.com/Specials.php
I just put one of the 4 port brakes on my 30.06. Absolutely love it. Cheap, too. It has the recoil of a .243 now. If you have someone shooting next to you that you don't like, these are a great way to get even....
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Thanks for the replies. I shoot the 10 predator hunter in 243 and the LRP in 260 and don't use a brake. I am looking into either a 7mag or 300 win mag and these guns in the lrh come with the factory brake.
If berger ever released the new .284 wonder bullet I might go 7mm mag, but seeing I already have a 308 and 30-06, the logical next step would be 300 win mag.
Or just turn it off when shooting prone.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
That's another question. I've read that POI changes when adjusted
I"ve been shooting a stupid accurate 116FLCSAK that I bought new in 1996 .I've never noticed any shift in POI or in group size from the brake being on or off.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Just to pass it on, I was informed by the dealer that this brake could not be removed.
That brake should simply unscrew off the barrel. It might be Savage gorilla tight, but it should come off.
Factory brake on my .308 Savage barrel - when I tried to remove it, I had to use excessive force. It had a pucker factor of 8.7 and I taught the neighborhood 2 new curse words. Geeez it was on there tight.
Vice grip with leather patch in the jaws on the barrel, wrench on the brake, smacked with 2lb hammer. 3rd shot it came loose. It had some kind of goop on the threads that hardened. Kinda sorta looked like Loc-Tite.
I like 3 or 4 wraps of teflon tape. It helps keep it tight & it's easy to remove for cleaning.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Put some heat on it with a torch then take a wrench to it. Don't hit it direct with the flame.
Just to make sure we aren't misunderstanding each others context. By off I was not referring to removing the brake I was referring to turning it to the off position by simply turning the sleeve and closing the ports. The AK style muzzle brake does that.
It also can be removed entirely with some effort.
Last edited by big honkin jeep; 03-30-2013 at 09:17 AM.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Question not specific to the brake in the OP:
Brakes are available in either steel or aluminum. On a 20" barrel (Axis SR in .308), will brake weight have any effect on accuracy?
I just put a Precision Armament M11 brake on my Hog Hunter .308 and it made a huge difference in accuracy and control. By far, the best $100 i have spent on the gun
That's stainless steel - a relatively heavy material.Originally Posted by cycleguy88
Anybody done a comparo of an aluminum brake to a steel (or stainless steel) brake? I just don't know if "the more weight the better because it stabilizes the barrel" or "the less weight the better because mass at the muzzle increases barrel whip" is true.
Members who have read this thread in the last 1 days: 0
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks