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Thread: Stock bedding how-to?

  1. #1
    MikeInSC
    Guest

    Question Stock bedding how-to?


    I've seen a lot here the past few days on bedding stocks and it looks like a fairly simple process, but at the same time you don't want to booger up and ruin a stock with. Is there a thread already here that has a step-by-step with photos on how to do this... dumb jar head here needs it broken down Barney style if possible

  2. #2
    Tarleton_Texan
    Guest
    There is a thread on snipers hide that has ton of pics and tips to complete this job. I read it and bedded my rifle its not that difficult to do. There is also a good video of it on a set called How to Shoot Beyond Belief. Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    terrymiller
    Guest
    I like this one although it goes beyond simple glass bedding.

    http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

  4. #4
    MikeInSC
    Guest
    Thanks guys for the links to the info, looks pretty simple and straight forward. terrymiller.... I know someone same name as you; you don't happen to be a disgruntled radar guy by chance from jawga do you?

  5. #5
    terrymiller
    Guest
    I know nothing about radar except that it and my wife can be used to cook my food.

    I should add that you need to be careful with the release agent. Make sure you get everywhere covered. I had a little get past the modeling clay in a 10-22 action and had to cut the epoxy off with a knife.
    Last edited by terrymiller; 02-24-2013 at 05:41 PM.

  6. #6
    MikeInSC
    Guest
    got that on the radar... I'm the same way just knew a guy same name from my time in the reserves; he's a WO now back in his original job field... a bit of a gun tinkerer too.

    Best release agent looks to be kiwi neutral shoe polish, use modeling clay and tape to seal off all the gaps and get ready to rock-n-roll. As far as the pillar goes, would any sleeve that the bolts fit snugly into that are the same length as the hole work or would you recommend a specifically designed "pillar"?

  7. #7
    terrymiller
    Guest
    There are many people better suited to answer that than me. Every stock I bedded had pillars already.

  8. #8
    palerider338
    Guest
    If memory serves me correctly you can use the threaded tube from a light fixture as a pillar....just cut to length.

    As for the bedding job.....lots of tape, clay and release agent or Kiwi polish or Johnson's paste floor wax.

    BE SURE to fill the screw holes in the receiver AND the pillars with wax before you re-assemble to set the bedding epoxy.

    otherwise.........you will get epoxy leaking into the pillars and locking the action screw (s) in place. Ask me how I know this. LOL

    Still not a big deal if the screws get locked.....just drill the heads off and tap out the action with a drift punch.
    Last edited by palerider338; 02-24-2013 at 08:04 PM. Reason: memory lapse

  9. #9
    MikeInSC
    Guest
    Any favorite products? JB Weld, Devcon 10110, MarineTex, etc have been listed. Looked at Brownells' acraglass and steel bed as well. What would be the easiest for a newbie to try?

  10. #10
    terrymiller
    Guest
    The local cabelas sells a brownells bedding kit. I use that.

  11. #11
    palerider338
    Guest
    Have used Brownell's Accra- Glass, Bedrock kit and JB Weld......all work great. Only difference between them is the Accra-Glass & Bedrock kits have brown & black dye packets and filler material to mix with the epoxy whereas JB Weld is grey without the bells & whistles and of course ....cost.
    A Dremel or a 3/8 drill with a cone shaped rasp comes in handy for cleaning up the excess epoxy.

  12. #12
    MikeInSC
    Guest
    thanks again everyone... I have the 111 trophy hunter xp pkg on-order and was looking for something quick-n-easy to get me started with what is likely going to be a few years project of shoot what I have, save $$ for one upgrade or another, put it on and giggle, rinse, and repeat. I wanted something to hunt with now while slowly doing upgrades; figured having $50 or so at most in bedding the stock (from what I can see even if I have to purchase pillars that it probably high) will be a cheap, immediate plus and one that I'm not going to hate giving up when I eventually replace the stock with an upgrade and (with a little experience) do it all over again.

  13. #13
    Team Savage
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    the factory stock will come with pillars

    drybean

  14. #14
    Basic Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeInSC View Post
    Any favorite products? JB Weld, Devcon 10110, MarineTex, etc have been listed. Looked at Brownells' acraglass and steel bed as well. What would be the easiest for a newbie to try?
    Devcon Plastic Steel, both putty and liquid, and Devcon F-F2. Which depends on the job. Acraglas? Haven't used it to bed a rifle since the '70s after Bob Pease(RIP) got me using the F-F2.

    Release? Kiwi shoe polish or Johnson's Paste Wax.

    For a newbie a good kit is Score High Pro-Bed 2000. Just toss the release and use Kiwi. http://www.scorehi.com/epoxy-pillar.htm

    If your using plumber's putty, modeling clay or Play-Doh to fill voids, mix a few drops of vegetable oil in it. It will still stick, but makes removing it much easier.

    If you do an unintentional "Glue Job", then you need make a "Ye Auld Action Ripper Outer"


    Bill

  15. #15
    MikeInSC
    Guest
    thanks drybean... tomorrow after work I should be picking up the rifle (if shipping has occurred as claimed) and getting to work. Will let everyone know how horribly I booger it up. But hey, worst case is I completely ruin the stock and have to buy a new one, well, I guess I could glass the action closed but... lets not go there. Thanks again everyone for the help!

  16. #16
    Boone660r
    Guest
    Well good luck on your bedding job and let us know how she turns out. I'm about to do my first bedding job with acraglass.

  17. #17
    Basic Member
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    ok, not to hijack your thread but this is my first savage and my first bedding job and i have lots of questions. i'm using a BVSS stock. my issues right off the bat is the stock pillars are below the top of the wood level and don't contact the action. secondly, is the blind mag even installed correctly? if so, how does the action contact the rear pillar? from reading up, i need to tape the barrel and the rear tang so that the center of the action is even with the top of the stock. i need to tape the front and the sides of the recoil lug but on the rear side just use release on it. the tang area should be left unmessed with so it floats. i saw where a lot of people didn't bed further back than the rear lug. my barrel is a criterion bull barrel. do i need to bed the first inch or so of the barrel? i also read where i need to put clay in the grooves of the barrel nut and tape it around. what do i do with the blind mag? just clay in that entire area or leave it in when i bed and bed around it?

    so do I basically remove wood from an inch or two forward of the barrel nut to the rear lug? any suggestions? anything i'm wrong about? anything i need to do differently?

    my other option is to just get a choate tactical and sell the BVSS stock. seems like a lot less work to bed and a lot more useful options.

    any and all help is greatly appreciated.




    Last edited by n10sivern; 02-26-2013 at 01:50 AM.

  18. #18
    MikeInSC
    Guest
    n10sivern,

    not hijacking at all, you have the same questions that I have. My biggest question is if I'm planning on rebarreling the action should I even bed it right now or wait until the new barrel comes in. I got a brownells glasbed kid from my local boom stick store for cheaps, I know once its in there its not coming out; if I don't bed past the end of the action or just to the barrell nut will changing barrels have an impact on the bedding? I'm thinking it shouldn't as the only contact points are the action and not the barrel but anyone say differently?

  19. #19
    aheppner
    Guest
    my just getting supplies together to bed my savage 12 f/tr in .223.

    im very interested to see where you take out wood. im not to sure what to do around the trigger group and rear tang area

    mine should be a little easier because its a single shot (no mag well to deal with) but im still unsure about the trigger group mostly

    Alex

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