Reply With Quotethis a new rifle or what?
I got my new Stevens yesterday. Today I'm snowed in and decided to get it ready to shoot. I started cleaning the rifle and noticed a great deal of side to side play on the trigger, so I took the stock off expecting to install a shim to take up the slop and replace the straight spring with a lighter one. This isn't the trigger nor spring style I was expecting. What gives here? This looks to me like an Axis trigger.
Last edited by ShowMeShooter; 04-09-2013 at 11:42 AM.
this a new rifle or what?
yes, just unboxed it this morning.
I'm wanting to order an aftermarket trigger for this rifle, but I'm not sure which to order?
I bought a new in the box Stevens 200 in 308 Win. about 2 weeks ago. The trigger assembly on my rifle is identical to the OP's trigger assembly. So what ever it is, it appears to be what Savage is currently putting on the 200s.
Like the OP, I'm planning on replacing the trigger assembly on my rifle.
So much for phasing out the Steven's 200, or having they axis force it out.
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
Yep, that's an Axis trigger. No surprise that they went this route really - why manufacture the different parts for two lousy triggers when you can use one lousy trigger in both rifles? That's still using the 110 trigger bracket though which the Axis doesn't use, so I'm guessing (maybe wrongly) that a replacement for either or will work.
Yes another Savage parts cluster-puck for us simpletons to sort out. Sure wish they'd learn to leave well enough alone!
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Get a Rifle Basix. Really like mine. Nothing like having a good trigger.
this is the plan...Originally Posted by deltagunner00
Thanks Mr.F. I thought that was what was going on here. I do see the reasoning. It was just a surprise when I was expecting to replace the spring wire, and I wanted to be sure I ordered the right replacement. I'm going to try to better the trigger as is. but 7lbs 10oz is a long way from what I'm looking for.
I just picked up a Stevens 200 in 308 today. It had the older spring wire type trigger in it. It was a used gun but had only been shot 16 times. I changed the wire and stoned the roughness off the sear and epoxied in a .004" shim to reduce sear engagement and with it backed off as far as it will reliably reset it is measuring 28-29 ounces on my RCBS trigger scale. I also added a .004" shim to each side of the trigger to take out the wobble. The Stevens 200 223 I bought new last summer had the same trigger as my 308 does.
I got the same trigger and bracket on a new Savage 11/111 Hunter XP I bought to part out for a build. The bracket is the same. The trigger pull measure 4.5 lbs out of the box and is junk IMO. I replaced with an extra SSS Competition trigger I had in my gunbox. So the Savage Rifle Basic triggers should also work.
I paid a little more for a Savage 11/111 Trophy Hunter XP on my next build because it had the Accutrigger. I switched out the standard spring to the Accutrigger varmint spring and I can adjust it down to around 1.5 lbs. I was able to sell the take-off Nikon BDC (Prostaff) package scope on the TH for twice as much as the the Bushnell Sharpshooter package scope used on the Hunter XP.
Last edited by jpdown; 02-21-2013 at 11:54 PM.
Just picked up a Stevens 200 in .223 for a build for my wife and I was suprised to see this set-up also. It sux, to say the least. I could do a lighter spring and stone down the sear for less creep and engagement but I still have a turd trigger. I'm thinking that the only sensible option will be a Rifle Basix Sav1.
I have this trigger down to under 4lbs for over 7lbs with little to no creep....still polishing.
I added a shim, and got the Dewalt grinder after the trigger, but I'm making progress...
Last edited by ShowMeShooter; 02-21-2013 at 10:58 PM.
I ended up calling it a day at 2lbs 11.3oz 10 pull average. not too bad I don't think. The trigger breaks pretty clean too. I'll take it to the range and see if I can live with it.
I have a Stevens 200 that has a trigger with a wire type spring instead of the coil spring. Will a Savage model 10 trigger interchange with these?
I like the coil spring trigger. The one thing I do not understand is the Axis/Edge trigger. They had a good trigger. They improved that trigger. Why have a trigger as worthless as the Axis/Edge trigger replace a sound proven trigger of the 10/110 series. LOL
Last edited by stangfish; 02-22-2013 at 12:13 PM.
1. Cheaper to make the Axis trigger
2. Save even more on production costs using same cheap Axis trigger on all non-AccuTrigger rifles as you're not making/stocking all those different parts for two different triggers.
It's all dollars and cents man! Same reason all of the DBM package rifles use the Axis magazines - plastic is cheaper than metal.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
To lower manufacturing cost and price point of their entry level rifles verses the competition. The Axis and Stevens 200 are priced for the first time, low budget, low use and low information shooter. Since we read this sight, we are suppose to be smarter and order the higher pricied models with an Accutrigger and decent stock. That is unless you don't like the Accutrigger or Accustock and already plan to replace them. And what would we do all winter in our "man-cave" if we didn't have those flawed Savage rifles to work on.
Last edited by jpdown; 02-22-2013 at 01:04 PM.
I replaced the trigger on my new Stevens 200 with a RIFLE BASIX SAV-1. My trigger was identical to the trigger pictured by the OP of this thread.
The replacement was easy with no problems. It adjusted easily to 2 pounds. Almost no creep or over travel with a clean break. All in all a simple swap and a nice trigger when done.
Youse guys make me smile. I've worked over triggers in old rifles that are so much more difficult to get right that my first 200 (bought last month) made me think I had died and awakened in Heaven. This thing took me less than an hour to get to 2.5 lbs, clean break, no perceptible overtravel, can't jar it off no matter what I do. A Winchester High Wall still takes me all day. You kids are spoiled rotten.
Yes to lr hammer. To the OP I would do the slam test to make sure it wont just go off by accident,be cautious.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
I used a plastic faced hammer to test the trigger while I was setting it up. I would adjust and then give the end of the action a good rap to make sure that I had good sear engagement. Also, when I had re-installed the action in the stock I bounced the stock down from about a foot high with no trigger release. I also engaged the safety and pulled the trigger with no release and then disengaged the safety with no release. I have cycled and bounced and engaged and disengaged everything several time and have had no unexpected releases. I also used a trigger pull gauge to check for repeatabilty. All looks good.
I admire those that have the skill to safely rework a factory trigger. I have done a fair amount of home gunsmithing, but stoning hammers, triggers or sears is where I draw the line for for my skill level. I'll install an adjusable replacement or adjust an adjustable factory trigger, but I won't touch a sear, trigger, or hammer.
I had that same trigger on my XP111. I cut 2 coils off, replaced. Did safety testing and then cut a little more. I would say I cut about 2.5coils and there was no creep and no safety issues.
I'm not recommending this, just letting you know it worked great for me. I started small and worked up. Cut too much ya need another replacement spring.
Thanks for the tip. I'm satisfied with the trigger the way it's set now. It easily set to 2 pounds, where I wanted it. It has almost no creep or over travel. I could probably adjust every last bit of creep and over travel out, but I feel safer with a little more sear engagment and a touch of over travel that allows a consistent sear release.
I just got a Sav1 for my brand new Stevens 200 today. It won't work on this new(?) style trigger. The "hump" on the heel where the spring protrudes hits the bottom of the safety , limiting the travel to the point that the sear can't trip.
I DUNNO? SSS?
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