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Thread: Savage 12 skim bedding questions

  1. #1
    david8989
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    Savage 12 skim bedding questions


    I've got a savage 12 LRP which comes in a HS precision stock with and aluminum bedding block. I'm looking to skim bed this rifle and had a few questions. This will be my first bedding job and i've read alot on them just curious about a few things I could run into with my specific application.

    1) I know I need to take a little material out of the bedding block but where and how much? I know not to touch the pillars but beyond that I think I need a pic if anyone has one??

    2) Also I think I know you only need to bed a savage from the recoil lug to the rear action screw in front of the trigger guard, this is correct right?

    3) I think I know the rear tang needs to be free floated, is there anything special I need to do to cause this? Such as take out material around it.

    4) Anything else yall think I should know?

    As always, thanks for the help.

  2. #2
    Skunce
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    Take a look at the Ernie the gunsmith website, he has some instructions on bedding V-block stocks. I ordered a set of his accu-risers and will be using them on my next bedding job.

  3. #3
    Basic Member jhelmuth's Avatar
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    There is no need to skim bed that HS Precision stock. You will not improve on it's accuracy (and - at worst - you can screw it up). All of my HS Precision stocks will shoot my best barreled actions at .25 MOA or less. Just be sure to use HS Precisions recommended torque of 60-65 inch pounds on the front and 45-65 inch pounds on the rear and middle action screws.
    .22LR * 6.5x47 Lapua * .223 Rem * .308 Win * 260 Rem * Large Cojones!
    [I]"I can prove anything by statistics except the truth."[/I]

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhelmuth View Post
    There is no need to skim bed that HS Precision stock. You will not improve on it's accuracy (and - at worst - you can screw it up). All of my HS Precision stocks will shoot my best barreled actions at .25 MOA or less. Just be sure to use HS Precisions recommended torque of 60-65 inch pounds on the front and 45-65 inch pounds on the rear and middle action screws.
    I have to disagree with you on this. I purchased a new Rem 700 VS 10 years ago that had a H&S stock on it with the same style aluminum block as the new ones. My gunsmith put some kind of machinist dye on the bottom of the action and bolted it on. When he pulled the action out, it was obvious there are only a few points of contact and they were not even along the bedding block. The block wasn't even or the action wasn't even or both = either way there was not consistent contact along the length of the block.

    I had this gun a year before bedding and shot it a lot. All one bullet (168 SMK), one powder (Varget), and one brass (Winny). 44.0 grs of Varget as 2700 fps in the 26" barrel. It was an solid 0.8" gun. After the gunsmith bedded it, it was a solid 0.5". These were the average of 25 groups before and after with no changes. Sorry - I disagree that even a H&S stock with greatly benefit from a skim bed.

    Just my experience, Tim

  5. #5
    stangfish
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    I know not to touch the pillars but beyond that I think I need a pic if anyone has one??
    What does this mean?

  6. #6
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    frist try this, torque front and rear to 25 inch lbs works for me, savage 12 and Remington 700 in jp A.M.C.S . People over torque all the time.

  7. #7
    Basic Member jhelmuth's Avatar
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    I can't address a remmy version (albeit my brother has one of these - and has 2 total - neither of which had such poor performance as you described), but I'd say your experience is the exception. I can't imagine that I've had three of these (one without the DBM and 2 with it) and none of them needed skim bedding...

    YMMV?

    Quote Originally Posted by tiny68 View Post
    I have to disagree with you on this. I purchased a new Rem 700 VS 10 years ago that had a H&S stock on it with the same style aluminum block as the new ones. My gunsmith put some kind of machinist dye on the bottom of the action and bolted it on. When he pulled the action out, it was obvious there are only a few points of contact and they were not even along the bedding block. The block wasn't even or the action wasn't even or both = either way there was not consistent contact along the length of the block.

    I had this gun a year before bedding and shot it a lot. All one bullet (168 SMK), one powder (Varget), and one brass (Winny). 44.0 grs of Varget as 2700 fps in the 26" barrel. It was an solid 0.8" gun. After the gunsmith bedded it, it was a solid 0.5". These were the average of 25 groups before and after with no changes. Sorry - I disagree that even a H&S stock with greatly benefit from a skim bed.

    Just my experience, Tim
    .22LR * 6.5x47 Lapua * .223 Rem * .308 Win * 260 Rem * Large Cojones!
    [I]"I can prove anything by statistics except the truth."[/I]

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