Bolt head change

[possum1]

I'm changing my .243 over to .223. On the bolt swap do I get the complete bolt head from SSS or get a empty bolt head and use my .243 bolt head gut's. Money's kinda tight now so the least expensive but I want it done the right way.

[Blue Avenger]

your parts will fit the new one.

[possum1]

Thank's Blue

[Blue Avenger]

make sure you have it pointed in a baggie when you slide the extractor out or you will loose your ball and spring.

[possum1]

This is the first bolt rifle I have ever owned. Never thought I would like the bolt,getting used to it now. Trying to get up enough courage just to take it apart to see how it is assembled.

[Blue Avenger]

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...oard,38.0.html

[possum1]

Would the complete bolt head from SSS have any effect on accuracy compared to a bolt head I put together myself? Sorry to keep asking ?? but I want it to be the best I can get ;D

[Blue Avenger]

nope. just faster to change.

[docsleepy]

For my money I'd have them install the ejector and extractor. Life is too short for me to try and put tiny parts together. I somehow ended up trying to remove/replace the extractor at the RANGE once..........luckily the spring hit me somewhere and stopped......had it gone to the concrete I would never have retrived it.......

Savage had two styles of firing pin, with two different diameters. There is a pictorial of how to disassemble (you don't need to disassemble the firing pin spring stuff, just get the bolt basically stripped down You HAVE to know if you have the larger or smaller firing pin. Find the detailed explanation on the SSS site and read it. Measure with a caliper and then you can order properly.

I have an older savage and it has the larger pin,
a newer savage and it has the smaller pin.
I bought a 6PPC head from SSS and it went on without a single hitch. My firing pin protrusion was also the same.

A hint: you can "fire" the bolt when you have it off the rifle by hooking the [I don't know its exact name but it is a button that sticks out the side] on the edge of a countertop and pulling on the bolt to get it to "fire". The firing pin will then be protruding out. With the rear end of a caliper, you can measure your current firing pin protrusion and write that down.

The spring inside will then be DEcompressed so you won't have any problem when loosing the screw/allen whtever that is at the rear that holds the whole thing together.

You can mesure the protrusion on your NEW head also. Mine is 0.054" .

Before you reinstall the bolt in the rifle, you need to "cock" the firing pin or it won't go back in. Use the table top to hook that button again and pull it back into the "cocked" position.

gordon

[Skunce]

I just received an assembled magnum sized bolt head from Sharp Shooter. It had the .140" oversize extractor ball installed, the bolt face and the rear of the locking lugs had been trued up. I didn't ask for the extras and believed I was going to get standard off the self Savage parts. It seems like a pretty good deal to me.

[Smokepole]

It is for the labor. But, if you're afraid to swap the extractor and ejector yourself, then you probably don't need to be swapping bolt heads anyhow. It's easy! A little forethought is all that's need to keep the stuff from going into orbit.

[possum1]

Thank's for the help guy's esp. you doc !! got bored tonight and thought I'd give it a try. No problems, everything went back like it supposed to, easy like you said. Easier than a semi .22 action.