Mark II FV with Homemade stock

**Got Diesel** · 01-30-2013, 11:16 AM

Hey all figured I would post up and share my newest rifle. For Christmas this year I was given a new Savage Mark IIFV in 22LR. I had asked for the rifle with the idea of making a trainer to my bolt actions centerfires again all Savages that I have done barrel swaps with and built my own custom stocks for. I wanted to build a stock for the Mark II that would be identical to my other rifles. This is not my first rimfire either I have a 10/22 built up too.

Anyways, enough back story here are some pics.

Here it is at the range with a big brother in 243 Winchester.

And one of the 243 Winchester.

I will get some more pics up tonight of the painted actually finished stock.

If you want to see build details on how I build one of these just let me know.

As to how it shoots I am still working on that. I started out by basically bedding everything including the bosses and sides of the action. I am using the factory bottom metal that has been bedded also there is no deformation happening. The rifle shot like crap, then I started reading how picky these are to action screw torque specs. So I started playing around with it. It seemed to almost like floating in the stock the action itself. So I removed the bedding on the side of the action. Its now bedded on the bosses only. I also installed bedding on the barrel directly in front of the action it's two inches long. Now I need to make it back to the range to see if that has helped.

If you have any tips on bedding/action screw torque let me know. Thanks.

**Got Diesel** · 01-30-2013, 11:17 AM

Here are some finished pics.

Let me know what you think. Thanks.

22BVGord · 01-30-2013, 08:09 PM

Impressive work on the stocks and the in-letting :)

I'm getting an idea of just how difficult this process is as I'm fitting a vintage Savage 3B to a custom made stock that had had no in-letting done. Had it at the range yesterday and actually got it on paper.

Found that it was shooting pretty consistently about 4" high and about 3" left. I probably got the barrel slightly off the center line to account for the 3" left but can likely adjust the front sight to fix it. A better idea would be to do some work on the stock in terms of alignment. I've been using auto body filler to build up some of the "hollow" spots and it seems to be working - dries hard and easy to work with sandpaper. I built up the back end of the stock under the barrel with filler to lower the point of aim so the test will be another trip to the range. This is rather a hit and miss process. For the time being, I'm using the open sights.

Do you have any tips as regards to:
1. fine tuning to get the barrel alignment "right"
2. fine tuning to get the slope of the barrel right so as to be accurate on paper

Are you getting any idea in terms of how much the center line has to be adjusted (inches,mm, cm, etc) in order to get a change of say 2 or 3 inches on the point of impact on a target? With a scope this would be easy, but I'm really wanting to get it
within a couple of inches using the iron sights.

Similarly - are you getting any idea about how high to raise the back end of the barrel to get a drop of say 4-5 inches on the point of impact?

**DGilbert** · 01-30-2013, 08:11 PM

Well, I like it just fine. I wasn't too sure until I saw the painted end product but that is nice!

**Got Diesel** · 01-30-2013, 10:05 PM

Originally Posted by 22BVGord

Impressive work on the stocks and the in-letting :)

I'm getting an idea of just how difficult this process is as I'm fitting a vintage Savage 3B to a custom made stock that had had no in-letting done. Had it at the range yesterday and actually got it on paper.

Found that it was shooting pretty consistently about 4" high and about 3" left. I probably got the barrel slightly off the center line to account for the 3" left but can likely adjust the front sight to fix it. A better idea would be to do some work on the stock in terms of alignment. I've been using auto body filler to build up some of the "hollow" spots and it seems to be working - dries hard and easy to work with sandpaper. I built up the back end of the stock under the barrel with filler to lower the point of aim so the test will be another trip to the range. This is rather a hit and miss process. For the time being, I'm using the open sights.

Do you have any tips as regards to:
1. fine tuning to get the barrel alignment "right"
2. fine tuning to get the slope of the barrel right so as to be accurate on paper

Are you getting any idea in terms of how much the center line has to be adjusted (inches,mm, cm, etc) in order to get a change of say 2 or 3 inches on the point of impact on a target? With a scope this would be easy, but I'm really wanting to get it
within a couple of inches using the iron sights.

Similarly - are you getting any idea about how high to raise the back end of the barrel to get a drop of say 4-5 inches on the point of impact?

I'm not sure that I am following you here. The barrel shouldn't touch the stock anywhere. Mine does not touch anywhere besides the bedding that goes from action forward two inches. This is to help with any sag that may take place. In order to get the rifle shooting to the left or right you need to adjust scope/front or rear sight. Thanks.

**Got Diesel** · 01-30-2013, 10:06 PM

Originally Posted by DGilbert

Well, I like it just fine. I wasn't too sure until I saw the painted end product but that is nice!

Thanks. They do leave a little to be desired while in the raw. I think they turn out pretty good once painted.

dan46er · 02-07-2013, 08:14 PM

Nice job!

charb52 · 02-26-2013, 09:42 PM

wanna make me one? lol and were did you get your bolt handle if its not stock?

**Got Diesel** · 02-27-2013, 10:25 PM

Haha. I am thinking about making them it will be awhile as I have to move my workshop from the basement before that happens.

The bolt handle is actually the factory bolt with bondo that I have shaped. I actually take an old medicine pill bottle and spray some release agent in there and fill it full of bondo. I place the bolt knob in the bottle I let the bondo harden around the knob. Then I shape how I want to and paint it.