New to Savage, need advice!

[dbow]

Hello Savage shooters i'm a proud owner of a new Savage 11g in .243 and I had some questions i was hoping you all could help me with.

1. What would you recommend for barrel break in? My last gun I did break in religiously and i could cover all shots with a nickel at 100. However i've heard that every gun is different.

2. I have heard of people replacing the recoil lug and barrel nut right way. Is this really necessary?

3. One of my friends also mentioned something regarding setting headspace to minimum. I have no idea what he is talking about. Any help would be great!

Thanks

[J.Baker]

1. Do whatever you feel is proper for break-in. Some guys get religious with an overly detailed and specific technique, others do nothing but shoot the crap out of it. There is no right or wrong here, just whatever sets your mind at ease. No method has ever been proven to be better or worse than the other.

2. No - most guys only change the recoil lug if/when they decide to swap the barrel for another one.

3. Ignore your friend, he cleary doesn't know what he's talking about. Barrels are headspaced at the factory to SAAMI spec. The only time you need to check or reset the headspace is if/when you remove the barrel from the action.

[Dennis]

This usually works for all barrels, but you will get 100 different opinions: http://www.mcgowenbarrel.com/BarrelBreakIn.pdf

Recoil lug, not necessary. If you were building a 338 Edge, then I would say yes.

Headspace, As per our Forum Boss, The only time you need to check or reset the headspace is if/when you remove the barrel from the action.

Reloading and checking headspace is an entirely different subject mostly involving your fired brass.

[handirifle]

I agree with Mr Furious, especially on the headspacing. What your friend has suggested could very well cause factory ammo not to fully chamber, or be very difficult to close the bolt on. Keep in mind that the difference between a Go headspace gauge and a No-Go gauge, is only .002". That's 2 thousandths of an inch. Now think of how many different companies out there that make factory ammo for a 243, and that ALL of their equipment is based on SAAMI specs. Some will produce ammo close to max length and some close to min.

I have known guys that have gone on some expensive hunts that needed to buy ammo locally. They reloaded their own ammo, and had their dies set just so....so when they discovered their "custom" rifles would not chamber factory ammo, they were less than happy. One found for sure, his was chambered to SAAMI Minimum specs. Apparently the ammo he bought, wasn't. He ended up using a borrowed rifle and it almost cost him a trophy.

That's one of the MAIN reasons I am a big fan of both Go and No-Go gauges when setting a new barrel. Anything else always leaves room for doubt, in my mind.

[dbow]

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like it's the keep it simple plan for me. Although the barrel break in still has me going... Would you guys feel it's the same idea as far as what type of gun cleaner is used? I've used nothing but gunzilla, some people have said they use two three different types...

[Dennis]

Butch's bore shine and WipeOut are the two I use. Again, there are 100 different procedures for cleaning and breaking in your barrel.

[stangfish]

. Keep in mind that the difference between a Go headspace gauge and a No-Go gauge, is only .002". That's 2 thousandths of an inch.

Are you sure about that?

[BillPa]

Keep in mind that the difference between a Go headspace gauge and a No-Go gauge, is only .002".

Usually its .004". For example, the 308 Win family, 1.630" and 1.634". The lengths are based on the minimum chamber and maximum cartridge.

The gauges I make for my own use are held to .002".

Bill

[txbdyguard]

If you are going to shoot the barrel that came with it then don't worry bout headspace. If you want to re-barrel to a different type or caliber then you will need to check with a gunsmith (or other knowledgeable person).