Reply With QuoteI use the RCBS lube and run it thru a vibrator for about 30 minutes or so after i am finished loading. Some will say don't do it but i have never had any problems.
Hello all, looking for some suggestions on a new case lube to try. I am currently using RCBS Case Lube and soon to try their Case Slick (I use almost RCBS everything exclusively as I get 58% off their products) but I am willing to pay retail for something else. My current problem is the stuff just seems so darn sticky and it either takes an hour of tumbling which leads to having to blow out media from flash holes with compressed air, or I have to scrub them with a microfiber towel. The toweling part kills my hands as I have nerve trouble and the "gripping" problem makes my hands feel like they're in an arbor press after 10 cases. I only full length size for now until my PPC build is done, and I dont use anything inside case necks. I have no preference whether it is a pad type, or a spray in a bag and rool around formula. Im just wondering if there is anything safe to use that has very easy removal but still wont have me sticking cases (never have before?) If it is something that could also just be used and then chambered without removal and no huge pressure spikes, that would certainly be alright too! thanks for reading and any suggestions you may have.
-Alex-
I use the RCBS lube and run it thru a vibrator for about 30 minutes or so after i am finished loading. Some will say don't do it but i have never had any problems.
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
I use either a diluted solution of Gardner Bender Wire pulling lubricant in a spray bottle or imperial sizing wax on my fingers. Mostly depends on how many I have to do in a session..
Static spark is one listed reason not to. Brake down of the powder kernels is the other big reason. The vibration brakes down the powder altering its character.Originally Posted by earl39
I do it before loading with corn cob to clean the lube off. The one shot in the trigger bottle works well
Last edited by jibben; 01-12-2013 at 07:42 PM.
Mink oil, stp, vaseline, I've even used carmex
Imperial Sizing Wax. That's all you need. Each time you pick up a case, that's another chance to inspect your cases for defects. Wipe the excess off with Brake Parts Cleaner and a rag. Or, throw them in the tumbler.
Only takes one stuck case to wish you had used Imperial.
I am using Imperial Wax now and have had no problems since I started using it. I have tried about everything even motor oil over the last 48 years of loading and am most satisfied with Imperial. I use my fingers to apply it and it takes some practice. I load usually 50 to 200 at a time depending how the arthritus is in my hands. I haven't stuck a case since using it.
I either use the imperial wax or the hornady case spray...And years ago I used pam cooking spray in a tuber ware flat pan type.Sprayed the bottom of the pan and rolled the saces around..Then wiped them off with an old towel or sock..Worked great..
The spray lube I use only on smaller cases like 223,etc my 308 the wax...Have never in 40 some years had a case stuck..If I do the inside of the case mouth I use a q tip and lees case lube.I have a tube here that i have had forever it seems it only takes a dap on the q tip...
Thanks for the help fellas, I appreciate the response. I'll try the imperial out and see how it goes.
Imperial is the best by far.......it's what I use do do major case reforming when building wildcats.
Pure Lanolin and 93% alcohol... (shaken well before use). Spray on and gently roll around in box to taste ...yummy!
.22LR * 6.5x47 Lapua * .223 Rem * .308 Win * 260 Rem * Large Cojones!
[I]"I can prove anything by statistics except the truth."[/I]
+1 on Imperial sizing wax. That little tin will last a long long time. Tim
I use Imperial Wax. It's the best.
I won't advise anyone else to do this, but after I rezise, I use brake cleaner or the below process to clean the cases. Depends on the amt of cases.
On larger lots, I use Denatured alcohol or Laquer Thinner and cleanse the brass. It's take everything off instantly. I use these two products daily, so it's nothing for me.
You can buy brake cleaner by the gallon.
Putting them in a vibrator after sizing with wax is a mess.
In fact, I use a quart can, fill 1/2 way with laquer thinner, put brass in, install top, adjatate the brass for a minute or two, then remove brass from the thinner and put on a towel to dry. I pour the brass out using a strainer into another container.
After their dried, I will put them in a vibrator for any hour or so. Works every time.
Sometimes the wax would get inside the brass and nothing will get it out except a thinner. You could use a SS cleaner with soap, but thinner or alcohol is the quickest.
I also neck up several loads and put oil inside and outside the necks to do this. Doing so is like having butter on the brass and takes no effort to neck up the brass.
If you throw them in a vibrator after doing this, the walnut just balls up on the oil inside the case. You will clearly see this. The alcohol, brake cleaner, or thinner will dilute it instantly, just adjatate the brass in the solution for a few minutes as per the above. Again, a strong liquid soap will also clean them, but it's slower and harder to get out.
ONLY do this outside on a pinic table or something. DO NOT do this inside. Make sure your area is well venalated. Do not smoke or be around any open flame.
PS: Laquer Thinner works the best, it's instant. I purposly put oil inside the brass, the added the Walnut, a screwdriver wouldn't get it out. It plugged the brass up.
Drop it in Laquer Thinner, shake 10 seconds, all you have is the Walnut floating around.I hope I don't catch to much heat for this, JMO and my process.
I will have to add, if you Google "cleaning rifle brass" you will find several methods including chemical cleaning. Ultrasonic cleaners work great as well. Iosso Liquid Case Cleaner Kit works good and can be used inside. Some use boiling water and soap! Some put their brass in socks, put in their washing maching, hot water and Tide and claim it does the trick cleaning.
My second method would be Ultrasonic cleaning, but takes a lot longer. Again, JMO
Simple Green, Windex, Citrus Cleaners also work good.
Last edited by Dennis; 01-13-2013 at 05:06 AM.
for me its hornady one shot been using it for years now never stuck a case i load anything from 223 to 300 win mag.
when using the imperal wax-there is no reason to use any kind of cleaner...All you need is an old rag-sock-towel....it wipes right off.
You guys must be using a huge amount to have to use a cleaner..All you need is a touch on your finger and that should be enough
for five cases..
I really like the Unique case lube from Hornady. It comes in a good size tub for only three or four dollars and works really well. All I usually do to wipe off the case after I size is just roll it on a clean towell. Stuff comes off really easy and works great.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadin...prod44708.aspx
removed
Last edited by bigedp51; 01-13-2013 at 01:28 PM.
your right and another that works well and smells nice is Porters Salve.....works super well..If your a dairy farmer and live a long way from the nearest source of reloading supplies, then look no further than the milking barn. Not only is it a great resizing lubricant but it will keep your hands utterly soft.
Yes I know I'm milking this thread...................
Something to consider: Please remember that most petroleum based products, such as oils and greases, will adversely affect primers and powders. (Soak primers in oil to deactivate them)
Petrolatum (AKA: Vaseline, Petroleum Jelly) is made from petroleum products, but I do not know if it has a detrimental effect should some residue left on the brass and be absorbed by the powder or primer.
Wax, from everything I have read (although some waxes are indeed petroleum based), does not have an adverse effect if some is left on the inside of the brass.
I posted my info as a joke acemisser, Bag Balm contains Vaseline and is petroleum base. I deleted my posting because you prove some people are gullible or you have a even drier sense of humor than I have. How about deleting your post like I did, we are both on a slippery slope of bad humor here. thomae is being polite above, but if he gets angry he might shoot us both with a dull bullet, have us both drawn and quartered and then smear us with a petroleum base product and light us on fire.
P.S. Be quick, thomae only lives a short distance from me, hurry up and delete your posting.
Last edited by bigedp51; 01-13-2013 at 01:50 PM.
Bigedp51: I will admit that I did not know if you were being serious. Stranger things have been known work well for some people.
I replied not in anger, but to clarify something that I believe to be true, but was hoping to get confirmation (or denial) from someone with firsthand knowledge.
I'll let you in on a secret. I'm really a nice guy. (But don't tell anyone; you will ruin my reputation!)
Anyway, I am happy to hear that your hands are udderly soft and not chapped. Keep up the good work!
Now, lets Mooooove along back to topic.
Any lube that keeps the case from sticking in the dies is OK if that's what you choose. Thinners or any cleaner that will remove the excess is in order. And make sure you get it out of the "inside" of the case. Whatever works best "for you" is good.
I agree, if the wax is on the outside, you can use a moist rag with solvent or soap and it wipes right off. I use this method when I have to clean brass wax off the brass that I am reloading for a second shot.You guys must be using a huge amount to have to use a cleaner
I guess I was main referring to my neck sizing and getting oil/wax inside the case. It makes the job easier and the results are perfect. You just have to remove the oil/wax front the inside of the brass, entirely.
This is where hot water and soap come in or a little thinner. Personally I know thinner will get the inside absolutely clean with very easy effort. Ultrasonic cleaners would be my second choice, with hot water and soap being the third.
Not long ago I resized 150 pieces of brass and somehow left a litte lube inside the cases. This will kill your primer, plus your powder load is not going in. This is due to the oil balling up the walnut. Ever since then I have been anal about cleaning the inside of my brass.
I had a few unexplained flyers and I know the oil and walnut was the cause. It's never happened again. I also had 3 no-fires. When I removed the bullet and contents, the evidence was there including the oil soaked primers.
I know I am lengthly on my post, but I know exceesive lube cost me maybe two matches.
Bottom Line: A wax based case lube applied sparingly IMO is the best. Removing any excess is the second key.
Many people use a Q Tip to lube the inside of their necks when sizing. Some state they use a clean Q Tip to get the excess out.
Any opinions are welcome.
Anything is better than a STUCK case.
Last edited by Dennis; 01-13-2013 at 05:29 PM.
I know that.But this stuff does work..Your not suppose to get it inside the case..Like I said,all you need is a little dab of it on your fingures like the imperial sizing wax...In fact one should not lube above the shoulder as you can dent the cases this way. If you think it should be deleted then do so..I will not be upset over it...John PS I knew one guy that really truely used a dab of STP for case lube..The bigest thing with any of the lube is that every once in awhile the die should be cleaned out good...Spray carb. cleaner works good for this...
I have been using the imperial for six years now. Works great and a little goes a looooooong way. My tin looks like it has never been used.
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