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Thread: Camo paint jobs question

  1. #1
    Basic Member
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    Camo paint jobs question


    Well my first question is alumahyde worth the 3x higher price than Krylon be ? I am really wanting to camo my new rifle, but I may be swapping stocks to a stockade later this year and all that extra money that would go into paint could pay to my stock fund. How well have y'all had clear coated krylon hold up over alumahyde ?

    Thanks!!

  2. #2
    TomKat
    Guest
    I dont know. I have kryloned a lot of them.

    If I ever get the stock off of my new 11 FHNS I intend to have it dipped....they sure do look nice that way.

  3. #3
    Brokebonez
    Guest
    Don't do it!!!! I've seen so many people regret it and end off selling there horrible camo job guns cheap.
    Last edited by Brokebonez; 01-15-2013 at 03:52 PM.

  4. #4
    Team Savage
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    You can remove Krylon with acetone or laquer thinner. Alumahyde is a lot more solvent resistent, but I've read it takes several weeks to properly cure. Many complain about having the expensive spray cans clog up. You've got to get the surface perfectly clean and absolutely-oil free before you even think about applying paint. I have done serveral Savage rifles with Gun-Kote on metal surfaces and Dura-coat on stocks. If you have access to an air-compressor, a cheap air-brush kit from Harbor Freight will give you more control of the spray and the small 2-4 oz bottles of paint will do 1 to 2 guns. I would use Krylon at this point for practice run and and wait to get your new stock. Then go with something more durable like Alumahyde, Gun-Kote or Dura-coat.

  5. #5
    stangfish
    Guest
    Many complain about having the expensive spray cans clog up.
    That is why they sell pray nozzles also.
    Last edited by stangfish; 01-15-2013 at 05:52 PM.

  6. #6
    Elkbane
    Guest
    And clean-out nozzles......

    I have 4 cans of Alumahyde II in my shop. Oldest is from 2009 and it still works....with a replacement nozzle. Watch the video on Brownell's site about application process and follow it. The stuff sticks if properly applied. Duracoat probably makes for easier application with stencils (it goes on a little thinner), but for a stick-like-glue base coat on wood or synthetic, Alumahyde gets my vote (I've used them both). Only you can judge the cost/benefit of painting a temporary stock.....
    ELkbane

  7. #7
    Basic Member big honkin jeep's Avatar
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    I've had good luck with the plain old rustoleum camo paints and a sealer coat of Testors dull coat from the hobby shop.
    I've done a couple in sponge camo and they came out looking pretty slick. so far I have had no durability issues with any of the ones I've done.
    A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.

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