Headspace gauge question

[Jeg181420]

I need go/no go gauges for my .223 savage build. Midway sells PTG and Forster and my only option is to get the Forster go gauge and the PTG no go guage. I wanted to get them both from the same manufacturer but they are not in stock and won't be until February. Will this be an issue? Is it important to have the matching pair?

[jibben]

Give it a bit more thought. the gauge has a specific published dimension. You think all the company's get to invent there own dimensions? You should be safe.

[Jeg181420]

Not sure, was looking to get second opinions because Midway recommends getting a pair from the same maker as the specs can vary. Didn't know if that matters or not

[keeki]

I don't know how many barrels I have swapped but I have never used neither a go nor a no go. If the dimensions vary then what's the point?

[acemisser]

All you need is a unfired factory round..Pull the bullet and fire off the primer and your all set...It's all I ever use..Insert the case and close the bolt.Screw in the barrel until it touchs the case..Open the bolt back the bolt out just a little.Try closing the bolt with the case in the chamber.If it closes hard back out the barrel just a tad until the bolt closes easy..Lock up the nut and your done..I know some will argue about my method,but it works for me with never any issues..

[joeb33050]

I set headspace with fired full length sized cases.
I've read that go/nogo gauges are dimensioned for NEW actions. Go gauge dimensioned at minimum specification, nogo at a few thousandths above.
The 308 WIN is the example.
Specification: CHAMBER headspace = 1.630" to 1.640"
Specification: CASE headspace = 1.634" - .007" = 1.627" to 1.634"
Specification: "GO" gauge = 1.630"
Specification: "NO GO" gauge = 1.634"
My Lyman dies size cases such that the CASE headspace, measured with the RCBS Precision Mic, is 1.626".
joe b.

[Dennis]

Pull the bullet and fire off the primer and your all set...It's all I ever use..Insert the case and close the bolt.Screw in the barrel until it touchs the case..Open the bolt back the bolt out just a little.Try closing the bolt with the case in the chamber.If it closes hard back out the barrel just a tad until the bolt closes easy..Lock up the nut and your done..I know some will argue about my method,but it works for me with never any issues..

My process is close to the above. I use a fired case, Insert the fired case in the chamber, I adjust the barrel until the bolt won't close, I back off untill it does. I tighten the barrel nut, I make sure the bolt cycle's good with the fired case. Then I take a piece of scotch tape and put it on the end of the fired brass. I trim the excess off, it's easy with a pair of sissors. I insert the fired case with the tape on it and see if the bolt will close. Most of the time I won't make it to the 2pm position. I try several times, but it wont go. I pull the brass out, remove the tape, reinsert the brass, and cycle. If the bolt closes, "I am ready to go". I have done this on many rifles and I know pro gunsmiths who do the same.

JMO , Dennis

[keeki]

I size a fired brass with the dies I intend to use, screw the barrel in hand tight with the sized case chambered. When you tighten the nut it will pull the barrel back out about .002". Done

[acemisser]

I size a fired brass with the dies I intend to use, screw the barrel in hand tight with the sized case chambered. When you tighten the nut it will pull the barrel back out about .002". Done

I have done this as well,only to find out factory ammo will not work in it now..Which of course doesn't really matter.....only I did not use the scotch tape...