Reply With Quotewho are you going with on the barrel? I ordered my lug at the same time as my barrel through Jim Briggs over at Northland Shooters Supply (one of those links at the top of the page).
As I have stated in a couple of other threads I am going to start my first build on a 110 flat long action here shortly. I have decided that I want to build a 264 Win Mag. The action that I have has a standard bolt head on it for large rifle, I think that its a 270 actually. I am going to need to change the bolt head to a mag. I see that places like Midway have them (on back order) listed for 23 bucks. SSS has them listed for 60+ What is the difference between the two? And how do you tell about the firing pin hole size? Large or small?
I do know that I am going to replace the bolt body to a fluted one just not sure what one as of yet and new tactical bolt handle.
Oh and while I am thinking about it.... the recoil lug.... what is the desired one out there? Thickness etc. Thanks guys!
Ryan
who are you going with on the barrel? I ordered my lug at the same time as my barrel through Jim Briggs over at Northland Shooters Supply (one of those links at the top of the page).
264 Winmag a man after my own heart, Brownel's has them I just got two of them myself, I truly feel putting a machine recoil lug on an action that has not been trued, is like washing your feet and putting your dirty socks back on, in machining all touching faces must be trued or it is all in vain, that means "the nut the lug and they action" that's just machining 101 basics.
FYI an 85gr Sierra HP with 70gr of Hybrid will launch at 4000 FPS and not tax your brass.
Tanks Dean
I got mine from Mcgowen It's is a 10 twist 26 inch SS varmint and could not be happier.
Dean
scope.. that makes sense, but at the same time.. the machined lug is thicker, has less distortion (not just around the reciever, but where the nub is stamped in it), and may still be a proper fit. Mine fits perfectly flush with my reciever and barrel nut, which is also trued.
Ok now I have even more to think about! THANKS!!!!! I read about the truing of the action on here but Im not sure what that really does? I also was reading in my Sierra manual this morning that the 264 can be hard to reload for because of short throats and long bullets. But the Sierra manual is the only one that says anything about this that I can find.
I am going to order a barrel, a Shilen, from Jim at NNS which means that I will try and order the barrel nut and the lug at the same time. I am going to order a bolt handle from SSS for sure.
So if I am going to have the action trued and timed.... I will need to rebuild the bolt first then contact SSS and have them do the work? Sorry for all these questions I new to all this....
Again thanks for all the help.
Ryabn
The nice thing about the savage is that the bolt head is floating. As long as you are using the same bolt head, you could have the timing done before or after.
Timing an action just make sure things are cut right between the lugs on the action vs. lugs on the bolt. He also does some tweaks in when things get cocked..haven't found a clear explination on that. It supposedly fixes heavy bolt lift issues.
Truing an action .. not 100% sure what Fred means by that.. but most places it means truing up the face of the action to be perpendicular to the threading. Making sure the action body is aligned perfectly.
Come to think of it, anything is better than that factory piece, but what I said still remains true, pardon the pun.
Tanks Dean
Originally Posted by scythefwd
Fixed: TRUING an action just make sure things are cut right (square) between the lugs on the action vs. lugs on the bolt. It also squares up the face of the action, the mating face of the barrel nut, the face of the bolt head, and removed the rounded corner where the shank of the bolt head meets the rear side of the lugs on the bolt head.
He also does some tweaks in when things get cocked...meaning the TIMING of how and when the various components that interact during the cocking/firing process so the action will cycle smoothly rather than the typical "from the factory" hard spot in the bolt lift when cocking due to those same components binding up because they're not interacting in sequentially timed fashion.
For a more in-depth explanation of timing, see this link:
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...uing-Explained
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
IIRC the SSS bolt heads come complete with extractor/ejector parts whereas those from Midway USA are just the bare bolt head - no small parts.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
[QUOTE=scope eye;151257]264 Winmag a man after my own heart, Brownel's has them I just got two of them myself, I truly feel putting a machine recoil lug on an action that has not been trued, is like washing your feet and putting your dirty socks back on, in machining all touching faces must be trued or it is all in vain, that means "the nut the lug and they action" that's just machining 101 basics.
FYI an 85gr Sierra HP with 70gr of Hybrid will launch at 4000 FPS and not tax your brass.
What good is a trued recoil lug and nut if your action is not trued as well? Think about it..And how do they true a recoil lug anyway?
if it is flat then is nothing to true..So if your old one is flat then whats the difference in the two? Explain it to me...Forgot to mention,if your bolt face is not trues as well..then what..You have gained NOTHING..
Last edited by acemisser; 12-06-2012 at 08:39 PM.
less flex in the lug if nothing less. There is always the chacnce that the action is true.. but if nothing else and the action isnt true, you still have a stouter recoil lug with a larger contact patch with the stock. That should transfer the recoil int the stock better, flex less making it more repeatable even. May not do a thing, but there are several people that do see changes after swapping them out.
[QUOTE=acemisser;151361]Not sure what you are asking but I can gurantee you, the factory recoil lugs are not flat. I have blanchard ground about ten of them. It usally takes .004 on one side and .010 to .015 on the other side sans the anti-rotation nub. You can take a fine flat diamond hone and gently brush the face of the action and you will see how poor the surface quality is.
Do this to the nut also and the situation is vastly improved...but not trued. remember that any defects on two mating faces will distort axial alignment due to a lack of parallelism. Bedding the lug is another thing to consider.
Last edited by stangfish; 12-06-2012 at 11:23 PM.
Factory recoil lugs are stamped, lay one down on a piece of glass and you will see how bad they are, after market ones are machined so they true.
Tanks Dean
I had no idea what blanchard grinding was, so I looked it up For those of you who are as ignorant as I am, here's a brief description:I have blanchard ground about ten of them.Now, back to topic.Blanchard grinding is used to quickly remove stock from one side of a large part. Typically, ferrous metals are subjected to the Blanchard grinding process, since the part is often held in place by a magnetic chuck as it is ground.
In a Blanchard grinding machine, the grinding wheel is mounted on a vertical spindle, and moves in a direction counter to the rotation of the magnetic chuck. The tolerances provided by Blanchard grinding machines can be as little as one-thousandth of an inch, with similar flatness. Tolerances, however, vary between materials and work pieces. Due to the design and operation of a Blanchard grinding machine, it will grind different work pieces to a uniform size, a benefit for extensive production runs.
thomae - in regards to the question that I saw in my email, but not in the thread (was this post edited? I see no indication of it), no your action would not be trued. You'd have all 3 with all mating surfaces in contact, but that may or may not be concentric to the centerline of the action.
Yep,
Concentricity is not as important as axial alignment.
I'm gonna show my ignorance once again, how are those different?
Hey Ryan just a heads up 264 brass is harder to find and expensive, 7mm rem mag is one neck size away just run threw your 264 full sizer die and done, I actually use Privi brass a bag of 100 is only 50 bucks, it's hit or miss with some of there other calibers they make but there belted stuff is great, it's harder than regular brass "I think they mix in old military hardware from the cold war into the brass" LOL anyway what I was getting at is that it can really take a lot of PSI or CUP before deforming, just take my word on that one and leave it at that.
Tanks Dean
Go the SSS route and get it complete.
Dean,
Thanks for the info! I have a ton of 7mm Mag brass here so thats cool. But just to be sure all I have to do is resize it and trim it to length? I dont have to ream the necks or anything like that? Man I got the hell beat out of me on another board for asking this question about 308 brass to 260....
No one beats up anybody and there's no ganging up either, that's what I like about this forum, these are are the steps I take, you may think some of the steps are redundant but they are not, if I skip a step I can tell just by looking at the brass and can feel it when I am chambering it or pressing the bullet in, it does not take that much longer and it's not like your doing a 1000 of them, here are the steps,
First run the brass threw your 7mm full length die and deprime it. so your starting with a piece of prepped brass.
Second run the brass threw your 264 win mag full length die without they expander just an empty die. that eases the transition of the neck.
Third now put they expander back in and screw it all the way to the top of the die so it is level with the neck, and run it threw again this is the secret to no reaming.
What this does is it transition the brass into shape instead of obliterating it in to shape, think about what would go on in one step to do all that, I do that with all my resizing and have no stuck cases in the chamber or in the dies.
Tanks Dean
Scope Eye!
Now I just learned something here that I didnt even consider! Taking the expander out of the die! Now why didnt I ever think about that. When I was doing the 308's to 260 I did it in one step and ruined several pieces of Hornady match brass. I think the first time I loaded them the necks were too thick and I caused pressure. The primer pockets got loose and on the second loading they blew the primer out. I did notice that the primers went in a bit easy but didnt think much about it. I ended up blowing two of the primers out and broke the ejector on my son's brand new birthday present... On his second shot! Was no big deal I pulled all the loaded ammo and reloaded it with new brass for the 260. I had the new parts for the bold head in my safe so it wasnt that big of a deal. I felt like a shmuck because my loads caused a problem. With your method I may try and resize them again. I have 800 to a 1000 match brass for the 308.
Again thanks.... many thanks!
Ryan
Remember now start from scratch just like you had never touched them, that should fix all the !@#$% up ones. LOL
Tanks Dean
Perhaps I should have stated Radial misalignment is acceptable, meaning concentricity is not. The axis of the action and the barrel as well as the scope are critical.
Last edited by stangfish; 12-07-2012 at 10:15 PM.
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