Reply With QuotePersonally I swapped out the magazine to make one a repeater.
All the rest I shoot and hunt as single shots. 25 years of hunting with single shots one just doesn't think about repeaters much.
Good luck and enjoy this incredible round.
Neal
I tried 7mm mag with a push feed using 300WM mags, 7mm mag that came with the action and an 06 mag.
The rounds would pop out of all of the magazines.
What I would do is use a 223 bolt stroke limiter/baffle and form some sort of block in the back of the LA magazine similar to what they do with a 223 magazine on a short action.
I would try to keep the round as close to the front as possible.
You could try it with your 06 mag and see if it will feed.
The follower and mag as far as I can tell for my 7mm mag
is identical to my 06 mag but its an old action. I have a 300 WM magazine and the follower is different.
Not sure how that limiter would affect the bolt cocking either, but I would assume it should work.
Personally I swapped out the magazine to make one a repeater.
All the rest I shoot and hunt as single shots. 25 years of hunting with single shots one just doesn't think about repeaters much.
Good luck and enjoy this incredible round.
Neal
OK, I need some unbiased advise. It seems when I used the barrel manufactures web-site to order a barrel the manufacture never received the order. I am pretty much back to square one as far as the build is concerned.
So here is where I need the unbiased advise. This is my 1st build and I would like to make it as easy as possible. I have a donor 110 270Win. After doing some research after I ordered the barrel (I assumed the barrel was on order) it appears I will have difficulty making a short action WSM case feed reliably and function since I will be going from a controlled round feed to a push feed and I will need to create a block so my shorter rounds don't move around in the magazine if I went with a 6.5-300WSM. And I will also need to change the bold head.
If I go with a 6.5-06 all I need to do is swap the barrel. Same bolt head, no mods to the magazine, manufactures have the barrel in stock, and everything should pretty much be the same.
Since I am looking at moving now and both funds and time will be a limited resource, should I go back to building a 6.5-06?
Let me know what you guys think.
Just change the bolt head on your 270 to a magnum bolt head and build your 6.5wsm. The one I built was also on a 270 donor action. I have also been a big 6.5-06 fan and I really don't think you will be dissatisfied with it but if you want a bit more horsepower you could always ackley improve it and get very close to the same performance as your short mag. I'm having a 6.5-06 AI built on a Winchester action as we speak that should be done in the next few days according to the smith I will be happy to provide chrono data once I get it up and running.
Stomp442;
Don't I need to open the mouth of my magazine and shorten it as well? When I tried to put 300WSM brass into the magazine it was a little difficult getting it in past the lips. And how do I stop the next round not go forward when when I am chambering the top round? Hope those questions make sense.
No need to shorten it but a bit of magazine lip work is needed to get it to feed relaibly. The WSM case with a long 140 grain bullet makes it fairly long overall and works great in a long action.
I confirmed my order for my barrel was submitted on Feb 7 so I am still waiting on that.
But, I got a hold of another Savage 30-06, model 110 for $200. What should I build there? I am thinking a 338-06 pushing a 225 grain Accubond would be a pretty neat gun. Probably another thread/post but what do you guys think?
I have a 338-06 and getting my old 338-284 barrel back too. 338-06 is my go to all around heavy hitter rifle. Use it for deer which is huge overkill and hogs. Drops both int heir tracks DRT.
IMO its about the best middle bore sledgehammer for the recoil, vs trajectory.
358 Whelen is a good one too but no 160 gr bullets.
338-06 24" bbl you can get over 3200 FPS with the 160 gr TTSX Barnes and even that measley bullet is overkill for most everything on the east coast. Very flat shooter.
The guy that bought my 338-284 barrel (about the same as a 338-06) set his father in law up with it, with custom loads of 185 gr TTSX bullets and he killed a 750+ # cow Elk with it, one shot and pretty much dropped it.
Personally I would not hesitate to use it on anything in N America with maybe the exception of a Massive grizzly or AK coastal brown bears where my preference would be a 375 or 416 ruger.
Always been tempted by the 375-06 ackley but the FPS is a bit on the low side.
Last edited by tammons; 03-07-2013 at 10:54 AM.
So my current build is a 6.5-300WSM, my wife has a 308 that I will convert to a 260Rem, we already have a 257Weatherby so no need for a 25-06. I am thinking a 338-06 will work good, unless anyone else can recommend something else.
I have a 6.5X06 that is a tack driver. The only bullets that I have tried so far is the noser 120Gr.BT at 3000FPS mid recoil. I'm looking at buliding a 6.5X300WSM any information on that would be great.
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=3]U.S. Army Retired Disabled Veteran[/SIZE][/FONT]
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Ok, I now have a new question. I received my barrel today and well...I don't think it's done. When I purchase a "pre-fit" Savage barrel, shouldn't I be able to thread that new barrel onto an action if I had the proper tools? I know the barrel manufacturer and I also had discussions about whether to chamber for 6.5/300WSM or 6.5/270WSM, we decided on 6.5/300WSM and the barrel is not chambered, nor has it had its crown cut.
I was expecting to receive a barrel and once I had the tools I could perform the barrel swap out. Now I need to send the barrel of to a gunsmith to have it chambered and crowned.
Was I expecting to much for a "pre-fit" Savage barrel?
Every prefit barrel I bought has been ready to go.
Typically it should be profiled, finished, chambered and threaded and crowned etc etc.
Who was the manuf ??
Did you call them ??
So I called the manufacturer and apparently my barrel had been shipped out prior to be completed. I should be getting a shipping label e-mailed to me then it will go back and get chambered and crowned, then shipped back.
Well that sucks. Wait 4 months for something and they half a_s do the job and ship it to you.
I am still waiting for the manufacturer to e-mail me the return shipping label but what can you do. I am sure it wont take to long now. Where do you guys recommend getting the barrel nitrided? I think I want to head that direction as well, I don't see me being able to use this gun for hunting this year now so I'll take my time and get the gun the way I want it.
Thank for all the replies and help from people, hopefully in the next couple of months I will be asking for load recommendations, then the fun really starts!
OK, I finally received my barrel chambered and crowned. Now here is another question, Where do I send my barrel to get it nitrided and what's the typical cost? I know I wont be using this gun this year, most likely, so I would like to take my time get it done right and get it treated.
Thanks for everyones help and thoughts.
Check the search function there is a whole lot about it, mostly from 358hammer big proponent,does almost all his striker barrels.(and there are quite a few)
FROGGY
See profile for fire arms
Do it today there maybe no tomorrow
Originally Posted by Alesandro
No when you order a prefit it should come ready to screw on. If you paid for a prefit and received a barrel blank I would talk to the place you bought it from and get back about $120. You should get exactly what you ordered.
Sinman,
The manufacture did correct the issue with about a weeks turnaround. Honestly though, I am not sure if I would buy a barrel from them again. He quoted me $299, then after his website did not receive my order and I communicated to him a month later as to the progress. He stated I had done something wrong when ordering it, good thing I had a screen shot of the order. He did knock down the price of fluting from $129 to $99. I am very positive we had conversations about whether or not I would be charged for the specific chamber i wanted, 6.5-300WSM. He was kind of snide and stated to me "I already quoted you the price". Well my CC was charged but I never seen an invoice from the company until after I received the finished product in the end of July about a total of 24 weeks had passed when he assured me of the initial estimate of 12-14 weeks, (after being returned to be chambered and crowned, which was fun as I feel he tried to belittle me in an email for the simple process of shipping). When I was looking over the invoice is when I discovered I was charged an additional "reamer rental" fee of $50. I decided not to fight as I didn't feel I would get it back and I changed e-mail address in the middle of this whole situation and can not show him where he stated to me about the quoted price.
Either way I am not used to all of this yet and I am not sure what is and is not normal, I'll learn as I go. Onc again thanks for all the help folks.
if you are still looking to have it nitrided we get all of our coating done at parker trutec. I don't know if they will coat individual parts, we usually have to wait until we have a decent sized order, our last order was 2 barrels, a 1911 slide and frame, and 10 desert tactical arms bolts. The cost to have it all done is very reasonable though!
http://www.trutecind.com/trutecind/isonite.aspx
Alesandro A $50.00 fee for a reamer rental is pretty much the norm, for a wildcat or non traditional chambering,
Dean
RUMs are like woman in Stiletto heals, you know they are going to put you in the poor house, but that has never stopped anyone from pursuing them.
Dean;
I completely understand the need to charge for a reamer rental and was aware of that when I started this process. I specifically inquired whether I would acquire the charge or not. The response of, "I already quoted you the price" (which did not have the price for the reamer included), is what I based the total price. I did not see an invoice until after my card was charged and the barrel was returned to me the 2nd time. I too have a business and know my clients would not appreciate if I quoted them a price, charged differently, and they did not see a bill or invoice until after my work was done. I always show a completed updated bill/invoice before charging their credit card or issuing a bill.
Russel;
I do still want to have my barrel nitrided. I think the best procedure would be to verify the barrel shoots good before having it nitrided correct? If I send in a barrel in that needs to be "broke in", then breaking it in after having it nitrided is nearly impossible, from what I have read. I still need to install the barrel and verify it shoots they way I like. My statements on the nitriding are more questions for verification than telling anyone how the process should be done. If someone thinks I should sent it in to be nitrided before installed let me know.
Thanks everyone for their help and input!
I finally got my 6.5-300WSM built today. I lost my job last year and even came close to selling everything I had for this gun. I decided to keep it and now after waiting for the last parts from Midway that I received yesterday, I tore off my barrel, installed the new one, headspaced it, and changed out my bolthead. I have a gunsmith neighbor that lives down the street to check my work and he said fire away.
So here's my question, do any of you guys have any recipes you like for your 6.5-300WSM's? I know,I know, start lower than what is shared with since every gun is different.
Thanks for the help ya'll!
A $50 reamer rental fee, as stated, is pretty much normal for the guys who make prefit barrels. That said, my gunsmith and I worked together designing the chamber of my 6mm-284 with leade and throat optimized for the heavy 6mm VLD's. We settled on specific dimensions and my 'smith sent the drawing to PT&G to get a reamer made to my exact specs.
Total cost to me for this brand new custom reamer was a whopping $0.00! My 'smith, Earl Hickman of Colorado Springs, paid for the reamer himself because he knew he'd use it in the future.
The take away is that you paid $50 for a used (maybe overused), generic reamer and my new custom reamer was free to me.
Still something to be said for keeping our gunsmiths employed.
6x284, that thing probably hauls azz!! Is that for paper punching or hunting.
I wasn't upset about paying $50 for the reamer. I was more upset at stating exactly what I wanted and told a number for the price of the barrel. To make the long story short, I was quoted a different number than I was charged, that was what kind of pissed me off.
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