Here I thought I was being clever! I should have figured someone else figured it out before me. In my own version of this mod, I drilled through the horizontal ribs with a 12"-long 1/4" drill bit and passed the allthread through all the holes. Next, I filled the first and last segments of the channel with AcraGlas and fiberglass floc. Finally, I filled the middle two segments with an AcraGlas/microballoon mix.
I also laid up a few layers of fiberglass fabric using epoxy on the outside of the forearm, but I'm dubious of how much that could help. I may try it again with slightly different approach.
DrThunder88, even with all the modifications to the stock for end, it still flexes, the only solution I see is for a stock manufacturer to come up with a replacement for the cheap factory stock. I had thought about purchasing another Axis with a standard bolt face to build a 6x47L but that won't be happening. As much as I like Savage rifles the Axis is below the bottom of my list.
Anything is better than nothing. The reason I started doing this is for bipod shooting. That's all I use (most of the time, anyway) The rods & epoxy thing will definitely help there. No matter how you slice it or dice it, it's still a $300 rifle. But they sure can shoot.Originally Posted by DrThunder88
Maybe someday we'll see a nice after market stock. Someday...
Frank in Fla
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
I did more or less the same stuff to my axis rifles--and I am certain it does make mine shoot better. Plus I learned reloading on my axis 308--I can't think of a better gun to learn on.
[B][COLOR="#FF8C00"]Shooting--it's like high-speed golf[/COLOR][/B]
I started doing this reinforcement thing some years back when I bought my first Stevens. I didn't like the way the stock moved especially being used to wood stocks & shotguns.
And, you're right. The .308 is a good versatile caliber to learn on. I'm just starting with the .308 within the past 2-3 months as well. It ain't no 30.06 but it is fun.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
The savage mag and chamber on the axis lets you run your bullet seatings out to the moon and back if ya want. And thank God the 308 ain't no 30-06 : )
Last edited by thermaler; 05-24-2013 at 01:54 PM.
[B][COLOR="#FF8C00"]Shooting--it's like high-speed golf[/COLOR][/B]
I have one of those fat, black, fluted barrels on a 110 action. It must have a real short throat. I like to seat bullets about .020" off for starters. With this barrel, if I seat too long & chamber check, the bullet gets shoved in a little further. It makes it easy to set up COL for a tight fit but the rounds come out too short for my liking.
Also , I can tell by the ring on the bullet from getting shoved in just where the rifling begins...
And whadddya mean "thank God the .308 ain't no 30.06?...." It's one of the easiest rounds to shoot. And the recoil helps loosen the wax in your ears. A little side benefit there...
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
My stock 308 axis has very generous mag and throat dimensions--the only drawback to that is that I think the bullets would fall out of the cases if I ran them to the leads : ) 30.06 = expensive to load safe queen in eastern US. : )
Last edited by thermaler; 05-24-2013 at 02:33 PM.
[B][COLOR="#FF8C00"]Shooting--it's like high-speed golf[/COLOR][/B]
Frank is obviously too wise a man to fall for my feeble attempt to bait him--ironically enough I've noticed that factory 30 -06 ammo may be the one and only caliber besides 270 that is still fairly common on GS shelves. I just saw some yesterday at prices well under $20.00 a box, I figure that has to be less than what you would pay if you rolled your own! All of a sudden a few months of ammo use are starting to look like a good reason to buy a 30-06.
[B][COLOR="#FF8C00"]Shooting--it's like high-speed golf[/COLOR][/B]
Around here .270, 25-06, 30-06, 300wm, and a few .243 have never be a issue to find....I would of thought with all the hunters liking those calibers those would be hard to find also!
Not an ammo thread. Let's get back on the subject at hand...or maybe it's time to close this thread.
I moved the discussion of 5.45x39 Russian to a new thread.
Well, I just finished installing a "U" channel in my 243 Model 11 Savage standard issue Tupperware stock. I ran the channel, which I might add is very stiff, about 1" past the swivel near the front of the stock. Used JB Weld (15 hour set time), but I think I would like to find something which flows a bit better as there is very little space between the side of the channel and the stock. Will see tomorrow what it looks like...
Hope it works out for ya Willy. As far as the epoxy "flow".... Now you know why I mentioned the quick set type. it's thinner & flows easier.
let us know how that U channel works out. I have another stock I'm getting ready to traumatize. I'd like try something different. Maybe a steel I beam this time.....
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Surprised how good the epoxy job looks this morning on the Savage 11. Mounted the action back into the stock; lots of room between the stock and barrel. (I did grind a little bit off of the forearm stock sides.) I was wondering about whether quick set epoxy was thinner, now I know, (much appreciated , fgw, for the write-up and photos), Mounting the "u" channel instead of 3/16" rod is probably a fair bit more work as I had to do a fair bit of grinding (I have a big grinder so that's ok!), to decrease the height of the channel etc, and I also collapsed the channel sides a bit with a big vise; the stock feels solid, hope it works! Made good use of the Dremel and oscillating saw! Just took my Savage Edge 22-250 apart and this stock looks much easier to epoxy, especially with a channel section, but I may just go up to the plastic block if I use a channel piece. Gotta go to the city later this week to pick up more epoxy. Fwg, is Devcon thinner viscosity than JB Weld?
Try Ace Hardware brand quick set epoxy. It's clear & runny. makes it pretty easy to get it to flow in tight areas. Mix in a small paper cup & pour.
JB was my second choice. Thin, runny but dark grey.
By the way, both smell bad.
Have fun.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Can't find an Ace store in Canada; will just have to try quick-set JB Weld. Are the recoil pads on the regular Savages or Edges glued on?? Want to put a little weight in the butt end to counter act the added weight in the front end.
Axis Edge rifles have one screw (the sling swivel stud) on the bottom of the stock near the recoil pad. Remove that and CAREFULLY push down on the square button on the top of the stock near the recoil pad until you can slide the pad off. Chances are you will bread the plastic that holds the button. I was able to do it once on my axis, but the second time it broke and I repaired it by epoxying it to some metal strap that was somewhat springy.
To the best of my knowledge, other Savage rifles have the traditional two screws in the centerline of the recoil pad.
Last edited by thomae; 06-25-2013 at 08:33 AM. Reason: Can never get anything right on the first go.
The buttplate on mine seems solidly attached enough with just the sling swivel stud. I broke the square tab at the top of my stock when removing the buttplate to fill the cavity with epoxy foam and haven't missed it.
That's good information. There's a few Axis stocks floating around here with that tab broken off. I was trying to figure a way around it.
I sorta overlooked that.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Mine has a round tab and if you are carefull you can take it off numerous times with out breaking it. Mines been off more than a dozen times without looking like breaking. Having said that, it probably will next time.
Tack
Frank,
Me and a friend of mine just redid his stock following your procedures. It worked really well and seems to really help the stock.
I noticed in some of the comments that you counter weighted the stock of your rifle. Do you think this is necessary on a .223 with a factory barrel? If so do you just take the butt pad off and epoxy some weight into the back of the stock?
any info is much appreciated.
Thanks.
I'm glad to know it worked out for you. As far as counter weight, I had to use some additional weight for the fat truck axle barrel(s) I used. if you're using a sporter type barrel, I wouldn't worry much about it.
If you do need or want additional weight, pop off the butt pad - carefully - & get creative. I have sheet lead on hand and I found door hinges epoxied in place with Styrofoam to help insulate works good.
Good luck with your shooting.
Last edited by fgw_in_fla; 06-26-2013 at 10:09 AM.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Thanks for the info. I assumed the counter weight was for the large barrel. I just wanted to make sure.
And thanks for your step by step guide. it was very easy to follow.
Yep.... the part about wallowing out the forend & counter weights was if you have a fat barrel. When you get tired of the sporter barrel I recommend watching the classifieds here & pick yourself up a nice SS flutie or Black Tactical.
Definitely makes a $275 rifle into a shooter.
Then, you too can smirk at the guys with $1200 Rems....
Have fun!
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Haha yeah.
I have a 6.5 creedmoor that i built (with alot of help from a friend) from a .223 savage. It has a criterion barrel, sharp shooter supply trigger, and i put it on a bell and carlson stock. its by far my favorite.
im working on a 6mm BR as my next build. its quite addicting.
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