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Thread: Axis / Edge Stock Reinforcement Made Easy - Take II

  1. #201
    FL_hunter
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    Ok, so I had the day off and plenty of free time and after some southern ingenuity I have the stock back together.

    Here is a teaser

  2. #202
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    Clean your toe nails.

    Did you use a piece of steel rod in the "area in question"?

    Otherwise it resembles an Axis again instead of something you'd use to stick up a 7-11...

    PS - Where'd you get that bolt handle from?
    'Scuse me while I whip this out...!

  3. #203
    FL_hunter
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    Yes I used threaded steel rod around the in hopes the threads would hold more bite and keep it together.

    I ordered the knob off of ebay a while back

  4. #204
    n4ue
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    Quote Originally Posted by fgw_in_fla View Post
    Clean your toe nails.

    Did you use a piece of steel rod in the "area in question"?

    Otherwise it resembles an Axis again instead of something you'd use to stick up a 7-11...

    PS - Where'd you get that bolt handle from?
    Hi Frank. Man, it been too cold to shoot recently.
    I have reinforced several Axis stocks, but reading your excellent post, I loved the idea of drilling the wall forward of the recoil lug. Not to try to out do you (ha ha), I just completed another stock.
    The only thing I did differently was:
    1. Used the bar stock bent and pointed, heated with a propane torch, instead of a drill. Also used it to melt the cross walls. Plus a few small holes in the center channel to give the resin a place to grip.
    2. Used Bondo liquid fiberglass resin instead of epoxy. Much easier to mix and pour from a paper cup.

    Keep up the great posts (with your sense of humor!)

    Folks should remember to clean the inside of the stockwith a good solvent to remove the mold release, in addition to roughing up the inside.

    ron

  5. #205
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    I've mentioned a few times on here...
    If you have a better / stronger way to make it happen, don't keep it to yourself.
    Share the wealth.

    I'll have to try that next time. Sounds a whole lot easier than drill & glue.

    Too cold to shoot???
    I just got home from our swamp. My feet hurt from hiking, all my rifles need cleaning, I have to make more ammo to replace what we used, fishing poles need to be cleaned & stowed, boots are wet from stomping thru the swamp, tired, dirty,.... Shall I go on?

    I love winter in Fla.
    'Scuse me while I whip this out...!

  6. #206
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    Must be nice to be retired and have to make work in order to have something to do! Lol!

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by LoneWolf View Post
    Must be nice to be retired and have to make work in order to have something to do! Lol!
    Hey sarge...
    I assure you, with 2 of the grandkids with us & teaching them shooting, fishing, hiking without getting too lost, cooking with fire & all the other important stuff essential for a fun / safe time. I'd rather be working.
    It's less stress.
    By the way, got a pics of the area to put up later.
    As soon as I find the camera.
    'Scuse me while I whip this out...!

  8. #208
    bnizzel2000
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    i just did this to my stock today and i must say wow it helps alot. thanks for the idea. but instead of using great stuff in the stock bc mine wouldn't dry i filled the whole in the end at the end of the stock where the trigger cover goes in, i filled that in with epoxy then i filled the stock up with sand and packed it tight, added the weight i wanted and should help with he recoil.. i also ported the barrel so thats another thing i did to

  9. #209
    axis1
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    Have you ever thought about a video?

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by axis1 View Post
    Have you ever thought about a video?
    Yeah, thought about it but, I'm the least computer knowledgeable guy you'll meet. I hate cell phones, I-pads, computers, digital cameras, garage door openers.... For me to get pictures from a camera I hate into a laptop I hate even more & posted was quite an accomplishment for me.

    Besides, modifying these stocks is a pretty cut & dried process. So easy, an Axis owner can do it. The extra reinforcement will help a lot if you shoot from a bipod & will help while you shop and / or save for a upgrade stock.
    'Scuse me while I whip this out...!

  11. #211
    Slickrock
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    Hey guys,
    I searched the thread and didn't have any luck. Maybe I'm not using the right key word search.

    i need to remove the butt pad to fill/strengthen the stock. I just looked and there aren't screws so I figure there are some type of clips holding the pad on? Can someone walk me through removing the pad so I can reinstall it without damaging it?

  12. #212
    Basic Member thermaler's Avatar
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    The swivel stud in the bottom acts as a screw and there is a slot tab on the top which locks it into place. Be careful with the slot tab--it's easy to break (I've broken all of mine).
    [B][COLOR="#FF8C00"]Shooting--it's like high-speed golf[/COLOR][/B]

  13. #213
    Slickrock
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermaler View Post
    The swivel stud in the bottom acts as a screw and there is a slot tab on the top which locks it into place. Be careful with the slot tab--it's easy to break (I've broken all of mine).
    Thanks. I will keep that in mind.

  14. #214
    grimreaper
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    hi just want to know would using this product work any better then the epoxy stuff
    http://www.selleys.com.au/trade/buil...high-strength/

  15. #215
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    No ;-))

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by grimreaper View Post
    hi just want to know would using this product work any better then the epoxy stuff
    http://www.selleys.com.au/trade/buil...high-strength/
    Liquid Nails is a premium grade, solvent based, synthetic rubbermultipurpose construction adhesive
    Rubber as in "Flexible" . It is by nature, designed to allow dissimilar construction materials to expand and contract individually without shearing away from each other. The other issue that crops up, it does not dry/Cure properly in thick layers. You would need to apply many thin layers and allow each to cure before applying the next layer.

  17. #217
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    AND....
    If you fill the stock with it (Liquid Nail) and close it up it'll never harden hence, if you ever open it up, you will have a mess to contend with...

    Don't ask me how I know this. Just take it for granted.
    'Scuse me while I whip this out...!

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by fgw_in_fla View Post
    AND....
    If you fill the stock with it (Liquid Nail) and close it up it'll never harden hence, if you ever open it up, you will have a mess to contend with...

    Don't ask me how I know this. Just take it for granted.
    I am thinking I Know

    Drybean

  19. #219
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    Some of us learn by trial and error.

    Some of us just can't be learned nuthin'....
    'Scuse me while I whip this out...!

  20. #220
    Team Savage
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    Quote Originally Posted by fgw_in_fla View Post
    Some of us learn by trial and error.

    Some of us just can't be learned nuthin'....

    Yep, I came from both schools

  21. #221
    savagemann
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    Has anybody tried flat aluminum bar stock with it's width standing up vertically running through the fore end?
    Or possibly some v channel or i beam aluminum stock?
    Also, using micro balloon fillers mixed into the epoxy to lighten the epoxy up and make it stronger?
    Or possibly using fiberglass filler fibers mixed into the epoxy?
    I have an axis SR on the way and am toying around with the idea of doing some combination of the above.

  22. #222
    Basic Member thermaler's Avatar
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    I'm a firm beliver in keeping things as simple and cheap as possible. I recently bought a Ruger American and it too has a "plasti-fleximatic." although the power-bed pillars take the concept to the next level IMO. I've done about a half dozen of these things and have discovered that in all cases the following procedure work (and yield better accuracy):

    1 Take a simple grinder and widen the forearm channel so that both sides will not touch the barrel when the rifle's weight is rested on the forearm. I used to put bars, rods etc. Guess what--not necessary.

    2 Fill the forearm chambers with any good epoxy--I prefer RC 11 marinetex.

    3. Remove buttpad and fill butt part of stock with envirotex. Turn stock vertically and allow to cure for 48 hours before putting buttpad back on. Needless to say--this is a rather permanent solution for the stock, but it works for me and I've found that there is a decent amount of flex in that area as well.
    [B][COLOR="#FF8C00"]Shooting--it's like high-speed golf[/COLOR][/B]

  23. #223
    Basic Member DrThunder88's Avatar
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    I used 4:1 epoxy and microbaloons to fill the void in my rifle's buttstock. The balloons don't really make it stronger so much as they increase the volume. I filled the wrist area of the buttstock with epoxy and chopped fiberglass, but it still feels a bit flexible.

    I thought of laying up some fiberglass fabric over the wrist using epoxy like I did on the forearm, but the contours were too complex for me.

  24. #224
    New Member Mitchbcs's Avatar
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  25. #225
    Gohring3006
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    I have a question. Did savage change there stocks in the forearm area for the heavy barrel versions? My cross weave pattern is x shaped not strait across..

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