Reply With QuoteAwesome write up and great pictures
I think this needs to be a sticky!
Pop
I start by drilling the primer pocket out with a 11/64" drill bit. I tap the hole 10-32 then cut off the portion of the case that is no longer needed. I use sandpaper to clean up and square the cut.
Next I take a 10-32 setscrew and grind it down, leaving a point. I polish the point to a mirror finish. If I over heat the part I will re-temper the steel. I apply Loctite then screw the setscrew into the rim just far enough to just clear the rim. It doesn't show in this picture but after it has set I also grind the flat end of the setscrew flush with the case as well. As you can see in the side view it is thinner than the ball bearing method and the setscrew in this one is only .075" above the cocking sleeve. Because of this I do not remove anything from the BAS and it works fine, reducing the bolt lift.
Here are a few pictures of a completed one:
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Savage/S5001346.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Savage/S5001347.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Savage/S5001348.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Savage/S5001345.jpg[/img]
Dolomite
Awesome write up and great pictures
I think this needs to be a sticky!
Pop
I seemed to have missed the point of this. What's it for?
Good thread. I guess that there is no fix for the "firing pin indicator" models?
Great job dolomite!! Thanks a bunch, can't wait to inspect your work more closely and try my hand at it!!
This is the exact one you are getting.Originally Posted by lwink
Dolomite
Well, hope this make you happy, SSS makes a lifter for the newer models.
Super happy. My new guns bolt lift sucks.Well, hope this make you happy, SSS makes a lifter for the newer models.
It reduces the amount of force required to lift the bolt handle after the rifle has been fired. Fred invented it.
nice, how do you install it?
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savagebolt008.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/savagebolt001.jpg[/img]
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
reduces friction by reducing contact surface area. 357 case cut with tin snips, ball bearing and epoxy
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
I'm scratchin' my head......how does a set screw with lots of work done to it, work any better than a ball bearing???
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
It proves he can use a Tap Wrench, clearly more bas@$$, . . . c'mon Fred
Hmmm, will have to try this out.It reduces the amount of force required to lift the bolt handle after the rifle has been fired. Fred invented it.
It is actaully thinnner than using the ball bearing method. I have a bolt lift kit and this setup is about 1/2 as thick as the kit.
Not trying to steal any of your thunder, just trying to improve upon things.
Dolomite
I too was wondering what the benefit was from turning a cheap simple job into something more complex, especially given that the benefits were negligible when installed into a rifle that was not timed and trued, let alone used without reducing the length of the BAS.
Nice craftsmanship though.
Dolomites way is excellent. I bought a 1/4" fine thread set screw for $0.35 and tapped the hole with a tap that I already had. Loctited it in and cut the .38 special case off. Installed with no firing pin spring binding and noticeable results. I'm sure timed and trued is better with this mod, but this works and is noticeably better without grinding on the BAS , which is where 90% of people will f*** something up. It does pump up your initial spring pressure a bit..........so what..........if you even know what that means then you are probably capable enough to grind down the BAS without damage to compensate for the extra pressure. Total time is 20 minutes, ball bearings were in short supply at the hardware store I went to, and I didn't have to wait for epoxy to set up.
Kudos to Fred for the initial idea and to Dolomite for improving on it. Just my humble opinion, of course.
I cut two coils off of my firing pin spring using this mod and it still goes bang, even with hard primers. This should eliminate the additional spring pressure from this mod if not cutting down the BAS or cocking piece sleeve.
I went through my whole action and cleaned up and polished all areas of friction. I started by chucking the pieces I could into a drill press. I started with 220 grit then 320, 400 then used a die grinder with a fine wheel, finishing with 2000 grit. After removing from the drill press I polished the parts using a Flitz soaked buffing wheel on a bench grinder.
I did all this to the cocking piece sleeve (including inside), cocking piece, firing pin adjustment nut, cocking piece pin, inside the bolt body as well as the front of the BAS. I also polished the area the cocking piece pin rides in. I set firing pin protrusion to .040" and gave myself minimal clearance between the cocking piece pin and the bolt body.
Between my "new" bolt lift kit, cutting the spring and all the polish work I was able to cut the felt lift by roughly half compared to before when I had just a bolt lift kit I bought in a stock bolt assembly. The biggest benefit is it is very smooth, no more grttiness. It feels the same from the start to the finish of lifting the bolt handle.
Something I did notice, when using SS setscrews they don't appear to be as hard as carbon steel. I have since replaced a SS version with a carbon steel one because I was seeing a little bit of wear. With the carbon steel I haven't seen any wear as of yet.
I am sure this is no where near as nice as having a T&T'd action but I am happy with the results. I will have an action T&T'd but not this one. I will have my next one done because it is going to be a full on build.
Dolomite
Sounds interesting...... this bolt lift kit business.
Howdy all New Guy here.Followed your instructions glad the photo was there (very new to the Savage/Stevens line) Now instead of grinding down my BAS (think that's what the nice big hex head screw that holds the bolt handle on is called) I fab'd a spacer of approx the same thickness as my ball bearing .38 special case from the rim to the top of the ball bearing and inserted it between the bolt handle and the screw. Is the acceptable? I didn't want to grind anything down until I saw that it worked as advertised. Hard to get parts up here in the Great White North (well not this year,its very green here in the Shuswap)
Dolomite first I want to say thank you for sending me one of these. I am not a gun guru by no means but I guess I don't really understand how this works. When I put the 38 casing and bearing in there is no room to tighten down the bolt screw back in. What am I doing wrong? I just don't understand..haha. I have looked at a few different pictures and everything but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put this thing in and re-tighten the BAS? HELP!! haha
Make sure the cocking pin is in the forward position until you get a few threads engaged then move the cocking pin to the rear. If you try to start the BAS with the cocking pin at the rear it is going to be difficult even without the bolt lift kit.
Dolomite
-I've got one almost done and a couple more in the process. Good ideas and I would guess we're all trying to make it as easy as it can be. Here's my way of doing it--on the depth of the ball bearing, I just used whatever drill that fit the primer pocket and, by hand (or fingers), chamfered the flash hole so the ball would fit deeper into the pocket. For the length of the BAS, I went to my local ACE hardware store and bought what they called 'machine washers'. The 1/2" size was about 3/4" OD and was available in different thicknesses of 1/16-1/8" and there may have been some SS as well. I used my disc sander to reduce the OD of the washer to approximately the size of the BAS head. My first reaction to the fit of the ID of the washer was that it may be too large (sloppy), but the washer seemed to center itsself on the bolt head and so far everything seems to be positive. A little polish and cold blue, or not, as the case may be, and it's done. Steve
I can't get the cocking pin to go back to the rear once I put put it in and start just a few threads? This is on a Stevens action if it makes any difference?
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