Release agent for setting pillars with Devcon epoxy

[tiny68]

I am putting a set of pillars in a old NRA youth 110 stock but my 10 year old's first centerfire. I got kit with a set of aluminum pillars and Devcon epoxy. The kit suggest using wax paste as the the release agent. What do you guys use? I plan to follow up the pillars with Devcon steel puddy and I need a release agent to work with that as well.

Second question. I want to make up some bolts with a t-handles to use to hold the pillars in place. Any clues?

Thanks for your input, Tim

[short round]

The screws you are asking about are called stockmakers handscrews. Forester makes them, & can be found on Brownells web site. Might also consider making two inletting guide screws, simply cut heads off 1/4 28 screws. This will allow you to set action into stock with out having to screw it down. KIWI Neutral shoe polish is good release agent, apply, buff, apply again & buff.

[BillPa]

Johnson's paste wax or Kiwi neutral shoe polish.

As far as holding the pillars in place I use regular action screws to attach the pillars to the action and glue them in and bed the action at the same time, one shot and done. Just apply the wax to the the threads and shanks, they'll turn right out after the bedding cures. One ready to go....




One little tip. Regardless what the instructions say allow the goop to cure at least a full day. The longer the goop has to cure the easier they are to get apart. I let it cure three days.

Bill

[tinkerer]

And last word of caution.

Once it all together and curing, pop it loose at 4 hours just to make sure nothing has the action locked where it cannot come out. Than put it all together again for the waiting period.

Larry
Tinkerer

[tobnpr]

Kiwi, Neutral color shoe polish. Cheap and available everywhere.

Do some research on bedding techniques...and decide what makes sense to you.

After my due diligence, I stayed away from T-handles and the like to secure the action in the stock.

These put point loads on the receiver, only at the pillar locations. Many experts recommend surgical tubing, or electrical tape stretched tightly around the barreled action to get a uniform pressure the entire length.

This is the best tutorial on rifle bedding I've seen:

http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...illar-bedding/

And, I would caution against early removal. Nothing to be gained here, and you risk screwing up all your work. If done correctly, it'll still pop out of the stock at 16-24 hours.

Best bet is to mix more than you need (ALWAYS), and set the rest aside so you can check the curing process. And, never skimp when you butter the action/stock. Just protect the stock and action well, and let it ooze out...again, you don't want a do-over by not using enough epoxy to start with, which can be a common mistake- you'll end up with voids.

EDIT: one more thing (just learned this one a couple of days ago...) be sure to tape the barrel nut. The recesses on the sides will result in reverse angles which make it impossible to pop it loose without a problem... (ouch)

[BillPa]

Kiwi, Neutral color shoe polish. Cheap and available everywhere.

Do some research on bedding techniques...and decide what makes sense to you.

After my due diligence, I stayed away from T-handles and the like to secure the action in the stock.

These put point loads on the receiver, only at the pillar locations. Many experts recommend surgical tubing, or electrical tape stretched tightly around the barreled action to get a uniform pressure the entire length.

This is the best tutorial on rifle bedding I've seen:

http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...illar-bedding/

And, I would caution against early removal.

Best bet is to mix more than you need (ALWAYS), and set the rest aside so you can check the curing process. And, never skimp when you butter the action/stock. Just protect the stock and action well, and let it ooze out...again, you don't want a do-over by not using enough epoxy to start with, which can be a common mistake- you'll end up with voids.

EDIT: one more thing (just learned this one a couple of days ago...) be sure to tape the barrel nut. The recesses on the sides will result in reverse angles which make it impossible to pop it loose without a problem... (ouch)

Best advise so far! Did we have the same teachers?

The only thing I might add, bedding is 90% preparation, 10% in the goop and cleanup. To quote Bob Pease (RIP), "If it ain't right going in it ain't gonna be right coming out"!

Oh the nut.....
I Pull the barrel and use this gadget. I made it .010" larger in diameter than the nut and barrel tenon. Of course the prep is done with the barrel installed.



If I feel the barrel needs bedded past the lug I'll do it in a separate operation.

Bill