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Thread: Help with Bench Rest Model in 6BR

  1. #1
    thumper4fun
    Guest

    Help with Bench Rest Model in 6BR


    Just picked up a Savage Bench Rest rifle in 6BR with a 1-8 twist barrel and will be mounting a Sightron 10-50x with a target dot in Bat rings on a Bench Source picatinny rail. I will use this to shoot 600 yd Bench Rest Factory class. This is a very competitive class at my range so I need to make sure I’ve done everything possible to squeeze the last bit of accuracy out of this rig. So you guys that have this rifle and shooting competitively what are you doing to it? Bedding, action timing & truing, etc.? Any and all information you are will to share will be appreciated.

  2. #2
    82boy
    Guest
    Welcome tot he sight.
    To start I think you have a great set up, if I was building a factory class gun that is how I would do it. I have seens several of these gun shoot very well. Before you do anything to the rifle you need to check out rules for your club, as many clubs have diferent classes, and rules than others. IBS (International Benchrest Shooters.) or NBRSA (National Bench Rest Shooters Association) doesn't sanction a factory class. With that said what could be exceptable at the club I shoot at , can/will be different at the club you shoot at in factory class.

    There is a few small problem with the 12 BR model. To start it is nose heavy and unballanced do to the long barrel, if your rules permit, I would either/or take the recoil pad off, drill a big hole/s in the butt of the stock and add some lead, and/or cut the barrel down to 26 inches. I would think that your clubs rules would follow the IBS/NBRSA guidlines on gun weight, and have a light gun weigh in at 17 lbs, with this there is plenty of room for weight to be added and the gun to make weight. If rules premit, I would look into having the chamber cut off the barrel, and have a good gunsmith put a fresh chamber on the barrel, as many guns come out of the factory with crocked chambers. Just because the chamber is crocked doesn't mean it will not shoot amazingly well, but haveing something straight would be insurace.

    Again you need to check the rules, but having the gun T&Ted (Timed and Trued) by SSS (Sharp shooters supply) will make shooting the gun far easier. I shoot with fred, and I can say every single time we pull up to a IBS match people come out as say "I have to have my gun worked on by you, for it is as smooth as a custom action." T&T may or may not make the gun shoot better, but it will handle better, as with the MUCH lighter bolt lift the gun will be desturbed less in the bags, and will be more on target that without it. It will improve ingnigtion, wich can show up at 600 yards.

    The other problem with the target accu-trigger in general is that you can not take it to the lower weights, and the gun funtion properly. You want to talk about frustrating, try running a fast string when conditions are perfect, and your under a time limit, with a gun, that you have to cock 2 or 3 times, just to get it to fire. The accu-trigger is not hopeless, it can be turned intot a good trigger.The reason why the accu-trigger has problem, is shock caused when closong the bolt. To start if you can get ride of the bolt handel (Check the rules.) and get something lighter, believe it or not this will have an affect on the opperation of the accu-trigger. Also many factory bolthandles are lacking primary extraction, and getting rid of it is just a good idea. T&T will also help the accu-trigger function better. Stoning the side surfaces, and cleaning things up will also help.
    You may want to post this on benchrest central, as only a very few members on this site actualy shoot competitive benchrest.

  3. #3
    thumper4fun
    Guest
    82boy,

    Excellent feedback. I'm checking to see what is legal in the factory class in regards to cutting the barrel down, adding weight to the stock and rechambering. It appears SSS is not taking any new work for a while so a T&T from Fred will not be in the near future. Do you have a recommendation on a different bolt handle? If it is a factory savage bolt handle I know I can use it, but if you're recommending an aftermarket piece once again I will have to check with the rules committee.

    Also, what are your thoughts on bedding the action? I figure that would have been one of the first recommendations but it may not be necessary on these newer BR rigs.

    Thanks

  4. #4
    M.O.A.
    Guest
    I say shoot it first and see how it does might not need it

  5. #5
    82boy
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by thumper4fun View Post
    82boy,
    Do you have a recommendation on a different bolt handle? If it is a factory savage bolt handle I know I can use it, but if you're recommending an aftermarket piece once again I will have to check with the rules committee.Also, what are your thoughts on bedding the action? I figure that would have been one of the first recommendations but it may not be necessary on these newer BR rigs.
    Thanks
    Best bolt handel I have seen is the SSS tactical, unfortianaly there is not a lot of options. I have also had good luck with taking a factory small ball bolt handel grinding it down, and then taping it, and adding a Pacific tool bolt knob. It will be the same length as a SSS, but it will even be lighter.

    As far as bedding, I would recamend doing such, if rule permit, I did not mention it as it is usualy a dead give away. Honestly savages are very forgining on bedding, and you may or may not see an advantage in doing so, but if it is aloud, It would be one of the first things on the list. The 12BR I had had a wied ring to it when fired, and we could never figgure it out, there has been a few report of this happening, most say they dont notice it. I would contribute this ring to the bedding.

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