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Thread: Another question about oil and wood

  1. #1
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    Another question about oil and wood


    I think I know the answer to this but wanted to get a more informed answer from the experts here. I know that dinosaur oil is bad for wood if too much is allowed to soak into it over time. But a lot of the newer gun oils/lubricants are synthetic. Breakfree CLP and LP comes to mind both of which say they use synthetic oils. However, I think they're still petroleum based. So are the synthetic oils bad for wood too? Not that I would pour it on the stock, but I'm wondering about if a little seeps out of the action after it's been lubed or when wiping down the action/barrel if some gets on the wood too.?

  2. #2
    ellobo
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    First of all, never apply enough oil so that any will leak out. if by accident you add too much, wick away excess with a pc. of paper towel. The least amount of oil is the best amount. I hav'nt seen any damage to a wood stock finish from oil, but it will if left on long enough.

    Ellobo

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    The majority of gun stock finishes today are synthetics like polyurethane, a plastic base coating and are impervious to any oil finishes. Military rifles like the M1 Garand and the British Enfield were finished with raw linseed oil and lubricating oil would give this type of finish a darker reddish hue over time. The end grain of a stock that is not sealed is more susceptible to water and oil damage when not sealed. (butt stock and swivel screws holes)

    A Remington tech-rep once told me that I could put as much oil on my guns as I wanted, but when I was done oiling the firearm to wipe off as much as possible with a rag and the gun would still have more than enough oil on it to lubricate and protect it.

    Note, our forefathers would mix 1/3 raw linseed oil, 1/3 beeswax and 1/3 turpentine and rub this on the wooden stock and metal parts of their firearms as protection from the elements to prevent rust. This same mixture was used as pre-petroleum age cosmoline during the American civil war for long term storage. The wax keeps the water and air from getting to the metals surface thus preventing rust and corrosion.

    Firearms in museums are NOT oiled for protection, the oil is removed and the metal is waxed with a neutral PH wax to prevent corrosion.
    Last edited by bigedp51; 09-23-2012 at 08:37 AM.

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    I don't apply very much at all but maybe my idea of enough and yours are different. I use needle drop bottles to apply a few drops to all rotating parts/hinge pins etc. I grease the rear of the locking lugs, cocking cam, extraction cam. I let the few drops of oil soak into the hinges and then wipe off any excess. But sometimes some still seeps out so that's just the way it is. I'm not going to use any less than I do now because any less would not be near enough. I wipe off the excess but I'm not going to wipe them completely dry. To me that defeats the purpose but we all have our opinions. But my question was do the synthetic oils have the same deleterious effect on wood as regular petroleum oil? I seal my stocks inletting, butt stock, etc., with Birchwood Casey Tru-oil which seals them anyway but I'm just curious.

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    I just put some one a rag and wipe down the parts with that part of the rag.

  6. #6
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    I dont think the synthetics can go through catalyzed polyurethane as the catalyst makes it so hard and helps seal the pores of the wood so well,that a little left over wont do anything but pool.
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

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    "I just put some one a rag and wipe down the parts with that part of the rag."
    That's pretty much what I do unless I'm lubricating a rotating part like a hinge or some sort of pin. Then those get a couple drops from my needle oiler.

    "I dont think the synthetics can go through catalyzed polyurethane as the catalyst makes it so hard and helps seal the pores of the wood so well,that a little left over wont do anything but pool."
    I think you're right but you have to watch for the inletted areas of the stock. Most of those don't have a finish on them and are left raw. I took mine off and put a coat of Birchwood Casey Tru-oil in them to seal the inletting. That should take care of it.

    Thanks for the replies guys.

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    Regardless what you use....

    A guy asked why all my rifles are either stored standing muzzle down or hanging upside down. "It looks dumb".

    Yes, it might look dumb, but no matter what, how little or how carefully its applied there always seems to be some excess that finds it's way to places we may not want it to go, into the chamber, bolt, action, trigger......stock.

    Strange, stupid? I dunno, but what I do know, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure or like I tell everyone, its you money and your stuff, do what ya want with it!

    Bill

  9. #9
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    I know what you're saying and I've tried it before but the way my safe is set up my rifles won't fit in it muzzle down. Anyway storing them that way could still get oil in the chamber if you have excess on your bolt. I swab my chambers before shooting to get any excess oil out of the chamber. I'm assuming that synthetic oils can be bad for wood too just like dinosaur oil but still no one has answered that question. Only how to keep it out. Thanks anyway.

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