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Here's some more tests
just cant get this dang thing under that beloved .5 mark
dont you hate when you try and try and dont really get any where
this is my 11 LRH 6.5 cm and it kinda just shoots everything and anything just about the same??
i know that not really a bad thing because if i run out or forget my bullets all i have to do is go get some of anything in 6.5 creed and i know its going to het the same POI.
ive try factory 120s, 129s, and 140s. hand loads 130 hunting vlds and 140s with varget and H4350,and variase seating depths, all shoot about a .75 to .60.
any ideals
to date the 130 hunting vlds shoot the best printing consistent .6s
P.S. the bottom left being the 2.810 is the first shoots out of a cold clean bore
Last edited by M.O.A.; 09-17-2012 at 06:36 AM.
Here's some more tests
You sure it is not the shooter? I know nothing about the 6.5 creed..I was considering getting one but
now I don;t know if I want one or not..THAT VLD bullet a Berger? If so I hear it takes lots of tinkering
to get them to shoot...Try some other bullets and use the loading manual seating depth to start with..
What kind of rest are you using? You aint letting the barrel lay on the rest are you? If so this will mess
you up big time...
Most accuracy issues are shooter related. To start without a good rest, and the rear of the rilfe suported, youll wear yourself out tying to shoot small groups. Shooting without windflags is a waste of time. Just because a scope is new or a good name brand doesn;t make it a good scope. Other things to look at, make sure your bases are tight, many time from the factoy they are loose, also make sure the screws ar not too long and bottoming out before the base gets tight. Same thing for rings, and action screws. As others have mentioned try diferent bullet, and powder combinations. My advise would be go back to the seating depth that did not have the vertical in it (2.830, and 2.86) and using the same powder try diferent powder charge. (Go up and down.) Last thing I would do is go to smaller taget dots, the therory is aim small miss small.
When I shoot from the bench,I have to constently talk to myself..Do this don't do that...I get fliers and
after makeing a post on here and getting a comment about shooting the old fashon way..Things did
improve..Another problem I know is MY own fault is not sticking to one load and fine tuning it...I alwya have to try
another bullet,another powder,etc...The biggest issue I deal with is form..I need to work on form..
I think it is alot of other peoples problem as well...There I have admited it...Hi my name is John
I am a fiddler...I need help to get through this....John
Another thing to add. If your are shooting group NEVER start you group with a cold bore, or a cleane bore. In my competition rifle I can predict my first shot withen 1 to 2 bullet holes to where it will print, but I AWAYS shoot 2 fouler shots before I EVER shoot a group. When the gun is in tune I dont need to shoot sighters, but I still ALWAY shoot 2 sighter groups to get things right. 1 resaon is it takes 2 shoots to put a bit of heat into the barrel to get things to where they operate properly, and 2 depending on your cleaning regimate, it might take a couple of shots to clear out what you put into the bore, and to get things to settle down to where things are working properly. Last try diferent things, you barrel may like to be shot dirty, see what happens when you dont clean it.
the guys at Hodgons told me that the worst thing is the salt like grit from the
primers..I talked to them for awhile after I got my new barrel befor shooting it..
He recommend I clean or at least patch it out after 10 shots if possible,to extend barrel life..
Is he right? He should know...But in a match I have to shoot 20 rounds befor I can patch it
he said that is ok,just do it...Some say clean some say not....Who is right?
"Is he right? He should know...But in a match I have to shoot 20 rounds befor I can patch it
he said that is ok,just do it...Some say clean some say not....Who is right?"
The rifle is right.... I have a 25.06 that'll punch .420" hot, cold, clean, dirty, sunny, overcast...... My .243 is like an ex - wife. Things have to be "just so" for it to be happy & even then it's tough. My .243 does best with about 12 to 15 foulers before it settles down. Get a feel for what the rifle likes. Not what you think it needs....
Become one with the rifle..... Feel the vibe from the bullet......
Sorry...
Good luck with it.
Frank inFla
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
OK guys I use a lead sled to get dialed in then to the bags then when its where I won't it I shoot off the bipod and freehand setting. Because I'm a hunter and that is how ill shoot out of the stand.
No the rest does not lay on the barrel.
Started out at the manuals seating depth
And yes they are Berger's.
I was woundering if I speed it up a bit if it would help I can switch to h100v and get about another 150 fps but would thiqs help or just makeme madder
Not being a expert,I have been told that it may takes lots on tinkering to
get the Bergers to shoot...Start with them into the lands and keep backing
out some.You may findit..But use the same powder charge in eveyone..Either that or find another bullet
to try.That may help you more..
Also is it possible this is just a .75 moa gun and won't do any better. As it is just a factory heavy sporter barrel
maybe at that...you got to mention all the detairls as they say..lol
I am sure you are shooting this rifle for target and not hunting, but as a hunter that kind of reliability would be worth alot, especially with that wide of a variety of ammo.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
If you're a hunter shooting from a stand, isn't that good enough? I think you're a closet tinkerer, as well. :)Originally Posted by M.O.A.
KeS
Nope,
This may have been the case many years ago when there was corrisive primers used, mostly in military cartridges. The new modern primer will not do this.
Berger bullets are not harder to tune than any other bullet out there, in some case I find that they are easier to tune.
Last edited by 82boy; 09-17-2012 at 10:45 PM.
OK thanks guy I'm going to play some more with the powder and get a pound of h100v and practice some more. And yes I love tinkering with every thing from cars to guns and ammo.
And yes its should be good enough for hunting hut what kinda man would I be if I settled for good enough LOL ;-)
Oh I totally understand that, but sometimes good enough is a blessing in disguise.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
why would Berger say this if this wasn't so..No everyone is gonna B.S people...If the man thatmakes the bullets
knows what he is talking about,again why would I listen to you?
So was it a guy from Hodgdon powder or Berger bullets that gave you the information?
As to when to clean, you really have to decide that yourself.... read interviews on that question from several barrel makers and they do not agree. question was ask and 82boy gave his impression based on his experience so why be so negative about his response.
i dont clean mine until the groups start to open up right now my 308 has about 200 rnds thru it still shoots good took my godson to the range 2 week ago (came home on leave )we were shooting 20ga. shotgun hulls off the target stands @ 300 yds i was using my 223 and my 6.5cm the 223 started opening up so its time to clean it but the other 2 are goo for another practice session before i clean for my last match of the year.
like what was said above the gun will tell you when its time to clean it .
as for the 6.5 cm i was about to scrap my barrel like you my groups were hitting in the 1.5-2.5 range @300 yrds until i found the right combo it liked now its holding 3/4-1.5 @ 300 yds if i do my part its the smaller ones i also went to smaller dots and sometimes instead of shooting at 1 dot i will shoot 1 round at 1 dot and do this for 10rnd strings kinda lets me know how the bullet preforms when the barrel starts getting warmer.
I have battled with particular rifles to get them to shoot. Mostly Remington 700's....
Issues:
Trigger: Weight, Creep, repeatability (the last 2 are often connected)
Bad action bedding: This can drive you nuts. This is particularly the case for harder recoiling calibers. Badly inlet stocks with lots of slop for the recoil lug. My Remington 700 "Classic" in 8mm Mauser ultimately got a replacement stock, because the original was a good looking stock and I wasn't going to make it the subject of my first bedding job... The replacement Boyds thumbhole stock worked perfectly from the moment it was installed. Disappointing that Remington did such a bad job. Unless you get a rifle with a stock with a bedding block in it, just assume you may need to improve it. If you are lucky, it may shoot fine from day 1, or it may just become inconsistent.
Barrel quality: Definitely differences out there. Some are 2-3MOA, some are slightly over 1MOA and others like my 10PC in 223 are 0.5MOA from the first day, every day. The 8mm Mauser Remington 700 was 5MOA when I started and I got it down to just over 1MOA after replacing the trigger and stock.
Sighting system (scope, rings, rail, loctite and finally - your vision) There are lots of variables here. The only thing I recommend is to avoid aluminum rings and mounts (Warne steel rings and picatiny rails are the same price as aluminum and far stronger and match the expansion of your action). I loctite the rail to the receiver and its screws, but there is no need to use loctite on the rings. The only "inexpensive" scope I use is a Weaver 6x classic K. Otherwise nothing less than $350 and it better have parallax adjustment. I have bought a few used rifles with scopes on them, and they have all been junk. The second Remington I had was a 700 SPS 223 with the 26" heavy barrel and a 4-16 Barska milldot scope and bipod on it. It did not shoot better than 3MOA, even though the trigger was great. Got rid of the Barska and put on a Nikon Monarch 3-12x42 with SF. That brought it down to about 1.5MOA. Then checked the stock (synthetic) and found it was warped. Got a 3/4" hardwood dowel and 36 grip paper and opened up the barrel channel. I kept checking it and the left fore end kept interfering until I had sanded it down to a knife edge. I ended up removing close to 1/8" on the left side. After that the barrel remained free floated even when on the bipod (that is a very barrel heavy rifle). Next time out, it shot 1/2 MOA as it did every time after that.
The 10PC I bought to replace the Remington came with the best trigger and stock I had owned and had a twist more suitable for high BC bullets (1:9) where the Remington was 1:12. With a 20" vs 26" barrel it was equally accurate and a lot lighter and more balanced. The stock with its wedge to load the recoil lug left nothing to be desired. After 1 miss at 130 yards due to the ballistics of the 75gr ammo I was shooting and a 250 yard zero, I got a custom elevation turret for the Nikon so now I can just dial up the distance and shoot. Those 75gr bullets are devastating when out beyond 250 yards, while the 55gr bullets are getting blown all over the place.
The most recent purchase was a model 12 in 243. A heavier gun than the old SPS but better balanced because of the stock. The action bedding needs to be improved and I have not shot it a whole lot since I have not yet acquired my brass and dies. The Hornady superformance 95gr SST's are shooting just over 1MOA, but pretty expensive..
I personally don't buy sporter weight barrels anymore, since they are notoriously fussy. Perhaps when I an old and weak, I will have to rethink that plan, or get someone to carry my rifle.... You really want your rifle to be boringly reliable... not giving you fits..
M.O.A., How are you measuring your groups?
82boy is correct.
They stopped using potassium chlorate in the 1950's.
They use lead styphenate now.
Not many times are you going to find that he is wrong. This is certainly not one of them.
Last edited by JackinSD; 09-18-2012 at 11:11 PM.
Just because someone is employed by a manufactor, doesn't necessary mean they know what they are talking about. Just because someone answeres the phone doesn't mean that they have any real world experince, or even have any experince with the product they are talking about. It also dosn't mean they the even shoot, or even are qulified to speak on the product. All it says is they work there, and they have matrial that someone put togeather to help them do there job of answering the phone. You dont have to listen to me, but I am willing to bet I have shot more of their product, done more research, and know more about it, than the people your talking to.
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