Reply With QuoteThe good ones are all bake-on finishes. If you want it to last, you're really better served by sending it out to get coated.
What's a good durable, hi heat, scratch resistant, easy to bond, matte black paint to use on a stainless steel barrel?
I have a reasonably new, very clean 7 rem mag barrel in SS and all my actions / rifles are matte black or blued. I'm just breaking into the wonderful world of the 7mm round by loading for & shooting a 7mm-08. When I get bored or tired or both from that one, I'll probably swap it for the rem mag but, not while it has a ss finish.
ANyone got any suggestions? I'd like to use a paint that'll bond well & not scratch or chip if I look at it the wrong way.
Talk to me.....
Frank in Fla
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
The good ones are all bake-on finishes. If you want it to last, you're really better served by sending it out to get coated.
Frank, another idea! don't look at it!!! LOL
I had a feeling someone would say that.......
Couldn't you lie to me?..... Maybe make up some story about it being easy? Just run down to Ace Hardware & pick up a can of Ace's Best flat black & jump into it......
Maybe someone could tell me what is Cerocoat? (Ceracote?... Cerakote?....???)
Frank in Fla
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Cerakote is the best there is.
You can get it in both air dry and oven cure with the oven cure considerably more durable.
Brownells carries both kinds in owner sized kits.
Duracoat is also decent but not nearly as strong or durable as Cerakote.
i painted my 223 with high temp matte black dont remimber what brand but its lasted for a year or hard use coyote hunting last winter and groundhog hunting this spring.
you just have to prep really well.
From past experiences and from being in the contracting / remodel business, I know the key to any good paint job is in the preparation. The second half of that in using a quality product developed for the application.
So, with that in mind, I think I'll get a can of indoor latex satin finish & paint outside in the wind, after i get oil all over the barrel....
Nahhh... maybe I'll take a bit of a hard line on this one. What would be more damaging to the paint on a barrel? The heat? The cleaning liquid(s)? Wear & tear from shooting, shoving it in & out of a case, a stroll thru the woods while bumping it into every tree I pass?
My rifles are 98.387% target usage. The remainder is everything else you'd do with a rifle. I don't suppose a properly prepared barrel & a can of Rustoleum or other spray paint designed for metals would be of any benefit?
Or am I wasting time, effort & resourses thinking I can make this happen when the reality is it needs to be done under circumstances beyond the capabilities of my little shop?
Somehow I think I already know the answer to that last question....
Thank anyway guys.
Frank in Fla
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
I have a guy that does all my Cerakote. That is some seriously tough stuff.
acoating.com
Any clod can have the facts; having opinions is an art.
Where's he located?
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Sharpie will do the trick.
Phoenix area. Actually Peoria Az. The first time I used him I was living in Louisiana and shipped to him. He does nice work and is very easy to deal with.
Any clod can have the facts; having opinions is an art.
I've done ceracote myself on two handgun frames and it is extremely durable and can be done yourself; however, I don't know about you but a rifle barrel won't fit in my oven and that is the limiting factor. If you're going to bother, go the bake-on route, you'll thank yourself in the end.
Have done Duracoate and GunKote. They are OK but I hear Ceracoate is the best. Prep is the key but tuning your gun for an even wet coat is critical as well if your using an airbrush
For years I've used a specially formulated paint that is made just for metal, its called Rustolium.............works great!!!! Doesn't need to be baked (its not a cake) nor do I need to pay someone else to put it on.
The key is to degrease it.
A nice factor of a rattle can is touch up is super easy as are color changes and camo jobs to change with the season. If its going to do most of its work on the range one of the baked on finishes will work well and be plenty tough.
Either way prep is the key to a good coating.
I dont care what anyone says but a 2 stage auto paint or even the rattle cans will do a good job.If you scratch it,touch it up. The only thing I would do is get it bead blasted. Make sure you plug the barrel with plumbers putty and duct tape the end. I can bead blast it for free if you pay shipping both ways.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
I am considering spraying my Model 16 stainless barrel with Rustoleum - probably a flat black or some olive variant to make it less visible to coyotes. Is a can of Mineral Spirits a suitable degreasor for the barrel and action? If not, what is?
Do you use a base primer or just shoot it with flat?
Also - how does a flat black or other flat spray product handle gun oil? For example oil at the end of the barrel from cleaning or similar around the bolt? Does it leave a wet oil spot that stays in the flat paint?
Last edited by wahoowad; 09-14-2012 at 05:58 PM.
My FFL shop will do both Duracoat and Ceracoat. Find them online Gulf Coast Shooting (GCS).
If you want to use a spray make sure to clean the entire surface with some denatured alcohol. Mask of stuff you don't want paint on like the trigger group, bolt head & body, etc.
Any of the automotive or Rustoleum sprays will do. You can use a flat black primer if you wish, just be sure that the primer and paint are the brand if possible.
Last edited by JCalhoun; 09-14-2012 at 06:09 PM.
Spray paint.
About 30 paint jobs in a 7 dollar can.
Hey, you need to decide if you want a Bubba job or a professional one.
Bubba does just fine with a rattle can.
Professionals use something better.
Haha. 500.00 in the stock and 2.00 in the paintOriginally Posted by rrflyer
Spray paint.
About 30 paint jobs in a 7 dollar can.
I used flat black Rustoleum camo on my 260 barreled action...cerakote it ain't but good prep, even application and drying in the hot summer sun has made it reasonably durable.
For $5 at Wal-Mart, hard to beat...besides, if one does decide to go a professional coating route its gonna get blasted anyway...
I have to agree with Stangfish. I do not get putting $2500- in one of my rifles and then spray painting it with a rattle can. It is like spending 300 to 500 on a barrel, 40 bucks on a wrench, 60 bucks on a barrel wrench, 25 bucks on a recoil lug and then trying to figure out how to avoid spending the money on proper head space gauges. It's like buying a Cooper or Blaser rifle and putting a Barska scope on it. Now in the same vein, I agree that if I was shooting a stock Stevens, Axis or something along those lines I do not think I would spend the 200 to 300 having someone Cerakote it, but I would still Duracoat it myself.
Any clod can have the facts; having opinions is an art.
I have to agree as well.
yeah, i've been there and talked to Tim. nice guy, laid back and looks like he does excellent work from what i have seen. i would give him a try!
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks