Reply With QuoteMan, that looks sweet! I would be in for two!
Never seen nor heard of such a critter, but I'm starting to develop a hankerin' for such.
Specifically, I'm interested in something that looks like the knurled cap (rough equivalent of the BAS) on the back of a Barnard bolt. I think it might look kinda classy on a Savage...
Here are some pics from the Barnard site that should illustrate what I'm talking about:
I'm kind of planning ahead for a custom Palma rifle build that I have in mind... and I'd really like to see if I can get a custom BAS like this. Not sure if there is anything special, in metallurgical terms, about the hardness or material of the BAS...?
Monte
Man, that looks sweet! I would be in for two!
Ya mean something like this kinda:
Mmmm... not really. Looking at changing out the little round head on the stock BAS for a larger diameter knurled body, closer to the diameter of the rear baffle. Not just a little spacer under the BAS.
Not like the one you want at all but here's what I did with my BAS.
Last edited by nsaqam; 08-27-2012 at 09:48 PM.
I can see on problem with doing this, and that is getting things tight, and keeping them tight. If you ever had an old 110 with the big slot screw BAS, you would know what I mean. They are a PIA to get tight, and keep tight.Originally Posted by memilanuk
Never seen nor heard of such a critter, but I'm starting to develop a hankerin' for such.
Specifically, I'm interested in something that looks like the knurled cap (rough equivalent of the BAS) on the back of a Barnard bolt. I think it might look kinda classy on a Savage...
Here are some pics from the Barnard site that should illustrate what I'm talking about:
I'm kind of planning ahead for a custom Palma rifle build that I have in mind... and I'd really like to see if I can get a custom BAS like this. Not sure if there is anything special, in metallurgical terms, about the hardness or material of the BAS...?
Monte
Look closely... I think you'll see there is still a hole for an allen wrench in the examples shown.
I'd be tempted to have flats cut rather than risk allen hole egging out.
That... might be a different look, although not a bad one, at least not from what I can picture in my head
Still... no problems with the current allen hole egging out that I've encountered.
It does bring up an interesting question of 'how'... if someone were to have a machinist make such a part, would they make a suitably sized allen wrench hole? Would the part need to be hardened to some specific level?
OK - I've googled it and still can't find an answer - What is a BAS?
Bolt Assembly Screw.
The big bolt in the end of your Savage bolt assembly.
I know I'd get a couple if they were available. They'd look right at home with a Stockade handle.
It would be cool if you could handles and BAS in matched sets....any machinist out there???
I dont think it is an allen hole, I think it is just a hole, it would be too small to get the required torque to keep things tight.
Making a hexagonal hole in the end requires a rotary broach, not something you find at the hardware store or in the average machinist tool box.
Of course there are ways to cheat....
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Actually... I think it'd almost beg for a rear baffle assembly made to match as well - without the slight taper contour they have now.It would be cool if you could handles and BAS in matched sets....any machinist out there???
Ah. A while back I got some *very* nice action screws from a local BR gunsmith who did some barrel work for me. I remember he mentioned they were broach cut... maybe from BAT? Still, it does complicate things a bit.Making a hexagonal hole in the end requires a rotary broach
Last edited by memilanuk; 08-29-2012 at 12:24 AM.
I emailed a friend who has a couple Barnards...
Sounds like the cap with the allen wrench hole doesn't directly tighten down to contain the firing pin assembly, etc. quite like on a Savage.the hole is for an allen wrench (dont remember what size). The end cap covers a ball detent that engages the cap that contains the firing pin / cocking piece and spring.
you can EDM the allen head in but i think thats a dieing trade
Fred,Of course there are ways to cheat...
Maybe not what you were getting at... but something that kind of popped into my head today as I was borrowing parts (scope rail) from one gun to stick on another (stealing from Peter to pay Paul...) and looked down and saw the knurled thread protector that came on my Sav 10PC-SR barrel (currently wearing a PWS FSC-30 brake). I thought "Hmmm... that looks about the right size... lets see what that looks like mocked up."
I was thinking if making a whole new BAS might be too much of a PITA due to the problem of getting a decently made and sized allen wrench hole broach-cut in the middle... what about just turning down the 'flange' on an existing BAS, threading it, and making a collar that would be screwed on and either permanently expoxied in place, or alternately have a small discrete set screw locking it in place.
Looks like it'd need to be a bit shorter than the piece I have sitting on there now to not obscure the safety, and maybe it could be just a fuzz larger diameter and still clear the tang of the receiver.
The project I have in mind would call for the bolt parts (body, front and rear baffle, BAS), receiver, recoil lug, barrel nut and barrel to be black nitrided / melonited, as thats the 'look' I want to go for. But I think a stainless knurled BAS collar to replace the existing 'flange' look might be appealing to some... Pretty much just an aesthetic 'change', not necessarily an 'improvement', depending on one's point of view.
What do you guys think? I'm not in a position to do or even source the work in any quantity on my end, just curious what y'all feel about it.
Winner winner, chicken dinner! There are several ways to do it like you have described. My first thought was to make a cup shaped sleeve that the BAS went through. Then I thought of the method you described, then I thought of making a new BAS and threading it for a short 5/16" socket head cap screw and burying it flush with the end. That would give a 1/4" hex socket.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Put me on the list! I like the idea of putting a socket head bolt in the back-could work with the right method of fusion.
I wonder where I have heard that phrase before?
cmon Fred! Start gettin them done. Sounds like a waiting list already building. Im on it too...LOL
”I have a very strict gun control policy: if there’s a gun around, I want to be in control of it.”
~Clint Eastwood
Would it be feasible to incorporate a built-in version of a bolt-lift reducer? I know normally its facing the other way, reducing the contact surface from the back of the sleeve against the face of the BAS, but isn't there another style for the newer bolts that have the cocking indicator sticking through that could be flipped around and tweaked to fit this application? Sorry if thats completely out to lunch; I'm not real familiar with the newer style bolt-lift reducers.
Monte
OR, some of us call it Big Arse Screw...
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